87MJTIM

Thx. I did an AX15 in to a CJ7 with a D300. Novak, which sold me the clocking ring, said I needed a gasket/rtv between those two. They use the same gear oil. Is it necessary on these?

AX15 to NP231 gasket/RTV, is it necessary? I was reading up on the ax15 conversion and found conflicting issues with the topic. On another Jeep Forum, someone was asking for the gasket that goes between the two. Some replies said to use RTV, some said neither was necessary, and others said that a PO had used RTV, so they used it also. From the "not necessary" responses, they said it is a dry connection so gaskets/rtv is not needed. Some replies mentioned the AX15 weep hole. The RTV would keep the oil from leaking out. So which one is it? My BA10 is sreeming at me, especially at higher RPMs (+2500). I want to make the change this year.

It will drop fairly easily. You may need a rubber mallet to "pursued " it. Don't use a metal hammer. Like asked above, "is it pump" or is it the sending unit or gauge?

It is in the oil pan. How hard is it? Not very difficult. It is just MESSY, time consuming and MESSY. If you've never done this before, schedule 4 to 6 hours from start to finish. You will need a replacement pump, oil pan gasket and oil. A new filter could be installed, since you have gone this far.

I've not heard of anyone having bad luck with Luk. :laughin:

You tube link Correction: It is a 2000 TJ. It is almost 2 hrs.

The 6 nuts that hold the tcase to the trans are a PITA to get to. I have dropped the two together. Since the OP is just changing the clutch, he can just slide the two back out of the way. No need to remove them from under the truck. That way he can just slide them back together. However, separating the two makes them lighter to work with.

I swapped a trans in a CJ7 last fall. I had never done anything like it before. I read up a lot on what to do and searched Youtube for other videos. (There is one on YT where a guy changes the clutch on a YJ. It runs approx. 1.5 hrs. A good watch.) I first rented a trans jack for $20 a day. I kept if for 2 days - $40. Others have used regular floor jacks with cradles to hold the trans/tcase. Harbor freight sells one for under $100. I have since bought this. (I had to drop the CJ trans again and plan on changing out the BA10 on the MJ soon.) Since you have not done something like this before, plan on multiple days to complete. Find level ground. Preferably on a hard surface Raise the truck both front and rear on jack stands. This will give you more room to work under. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the starter motor. 2 bolts and one wire. Disconnect both front and rear drive shafts from tcase. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder at the bell housing. Have a container to collect the fluid. Disconnect the backup light wire from trans. Disconnect the vent hose, speedo vacuum lines from the tcase. From inside the cab, remove the trans shifter. It may require removing the center console and other parts. The tcase shift linkage will just pop off with a screw drive or pry bar. Now the serious fun begins: Place a jack stand or jack under the oil pan. Use a block of wood so as not to damage the pan. It will help to have a second support under the bell housing of the trans. When you remove the trans support bracket, all the weight of the eng/trans/tcase is on the oil pan. Remove the trans support bracket. Place the trans jack under the trans/tcase. Most of the weight is toward the tcase, so place it toward the rear to center the weight. There are four bolts that hold the bell housing to the motor. The top two are reverse torx head, so have the proper sockets. You can search on here for the size. (When you have those out, take them to a hardware store and find hex head in the same size. Throw the old ones away!) You will need a long extension for your ratchet, or long, skinny arms to get the top bolts out. The lower two bolts are easy to get at from under the truck. There other bolts that connect the bell housing to the dust shield. These are easy to remove. DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE CPS. It is probably easier to unplug the wire in the engine bay and leave it attached to the bell housing. A tip I found was to let the trans jack down some while letting the motor tilt. This will give you more room to reach the top bolts. Don't let it tilt too far or the fan blades will hit the radiator. (If I missed a step please correct/fill in.) Now slide the trans/tcase back. The pressure plate is staring you in the face. When you reinstall, be sure to use the clutch alignment toll. If the clutch disk is not properly aligned, the trans will not go in properly. You will need to loosen the pressure again....and again...and again. Ask me how I know. Don't let it intimidate you. It is just a bunch of bolts and wires. Good luck.

where did you get the spring? part no. What steps is the FSM missing? On mine, the ratchet slips. It just doesn't hold for shoot.

:drool: waiting for more.

The yellow plugs in the engine bay are for engine diagnostic connection. These are for pre-OBD scanners. Snap-On makes (made?) a scanner, MT2500, you can find on Ebay. The blue relay under the dash (I believe) is the horn relay. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

This was for sale on CC 4 yrs ago. http://comancheclub.com/topic/26324-comanche-rear-receiver-hitch-dfw-tx/ No "Z" or "C" bends. Just 3 holes to mount to the outside of the frame rails.

I am in. Let me know how much and when they're available.

My wife lets me know when it is cold outside ;) I think I found why the chime for the key and lights do not work. The chime contact in the steering column is missing. I found the part for under $10, but shipping is $13!!!!! I may have to search JYs. I have no idea when it was removed.

checked the light bulbs?

General Springs in the rear and spacers up front will give you approx 3"

Have you tried getting a new back up switch for the trans? I (currently) have the BA10 and just replaced the trans switch. Now I have back up lights.

Yes, I know the order: RR, LR, RF LF, open the RF bleeder to activate the load valve, repeat the RR, LR, RF, LF. Does the bleeder remain open during the 2nd phase? I can search for it the steps on here.

I picked up a MC/booster from a 96 XJ. I am hoping to install it soon. My question is bleed the system. I have seen some youtubes that indicate that bleeding at the prop valve is all that is required. Is that true? Should I bleed the whole system instead?

My question is the chime alarm that sounds when the key is in the ignition switch and the door is open/lights are on/seat belt unhooked. On mine, only the seat belt alarm sounds when I turn on the iginition and I am unbuckled. The alarm for the key in the ignition does not sound off. Is this the fault of the chime "box" in the fuse block or is the the switch in the column? What is the best/easiest way to test it? Possibly (un)related: I cannot "flash" my lights to on coming cars when the headlights are turned off (to warn of radar traps). I used to be able to do this when the MJ was young. I have not been able to do it for years, now. Has anyone else had this and how to fix it? Thx.

I could. But I run into the hassle of not having money to buy steel and then the lasers finding time to cut them for me and all that. I'd like to do it and help everybody out and even build the whole hitch for a few extra bucks but it might be a while. I am going to go price a sheet of 1/4" and 2.5" square tubing. And I could see what the lasers could do for me. I just don't wanna cut 20 sets of them and sit on them for years.... I didn't actually bolt them up but they look like they're perfect. I've still gotta put the 1/4" spacer behind them to space out for the bumper bracket. I could make that hole smaller and weld it on for a perfect fit. If you do make a few, put me down for one.

You're supposed to fill from the reservoir bottle. The renix engine has a closed system. The bottle is on the passenger side back on the firewall.

It's good to learn from your own mistakes. It's better to learn from someone else's mistakes.

From experience :oops: , get a clutch to match the trans, not the engine. I did an AX15 swap into a CJ7. I bought a clutch kit for the engine (4.2L/258). The clutch grabs/releases all the way at the top. The pedal does not go to floor. I researched part numbers on Rockauto for the clutches used in diff jeep and the known trans. The AX15 started with the intenal slave cylinder then switched to external in 94. The part numbers changed with that model change. I have to change the clutch in the CJ now. :(

Was the cluster original to the 95? Could it have come from a 2.5 prior? I remember reading that the 4.0 and 2.5 count pules differently for the Rev counter. If the PO of the 95 had swapped clusters from a 2.5, you may have taken over his/her problem.