DirtyComanche

I'm resistant to this only because of the loss of space associated with doing so. I guess there might be some creative options for where to install an adequate sized sub and enclosure, more research would be needed. I should pull my interior out and check what's in there either way. I guess I could just try fading them out and letting the better Polks do the majority of the work too.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-83502745-Fuel-Repair/dp/B00B8X56RA These won't work? Maybe. You tell me. I had a good P/N for the dealer and they told me it was no longer good, I never found a cross reference for it, the one they had was definitely not right. The pictured setup is not 100% the same as the OEM, but it may or may not be close enough.

Not specific enough. What lockers? What LED headlights? Is the light bar straight or curved? 1989 is a transition year, do you have an AX-15 or a Peugeot 5spd? What colour is your interior? Do you like gladiator movies? Okay, kinda just bustin' your balls there. Your sig is better than most. :thumbsup:

Mine's harder. With the 01 intake and the 04 TJ steering pump, there's very little wiggle room for the fuel lines. I had to bend the fuel rail nipples slightly to fit them in. Thus I disco the fuel lines when changing injectors. Last time I disconnected the fuel lines from the rail in my RENIX Jeep, it cost $25 to put them back together. The FSM says to replace those little plastic fittings if you disconnect them, it is a "disposable" seal. Guess what, those little plastic thingies are out of production, last I heard.... My last engine swap, the fuel rail was hanging off to the side, still connected to the fuel lines. No leaks there, yet. Guess what, I got spares. The ones you use are actually available. The Renix ones aren't. They're really close to a GM part, which I believe I managed to make work, minus that the backup ring (goes between the o-rings) is not available. IMHO the quick connect is a weakness and should be deleted. In a perfect world, that is. On my XJ I wound up just using FI hose and FI clamps, since I put a bunch of HO junk in a Renix chassis and something had to give where the fuel lines met (or didn't meet, initially). Much cleaner would be some AN adapters and some better hose.

I don't even have a 'bama cat on my XJ. Just a tiny little "Pypes" muffler tucked up by the rear axle. It's 2.5" stainless all the way too. Performance wise, who knows, 37s with 4.10 gears and about 1000lbs of extra axle and suspension parts means I'm clawing for every HP I can get.

I wouldn't pull the fuel lines off the rail. If you do you need new clips for them or they might blow off on you, and you will probably burn the truck down if that happens. I'd just pop the rail loose, pull the injectors off it, and stuff the new ones on. Lube the orings with something slick, I use thin silicone grease, but WD-40 or clean oil works fine. For that matter hitting each end of the injectors with WD-40 before trying to pull the rail makes it a lot easier to get them out. I also paintpen mark the injector electrical connectors rather than taping them, but that's me. Also, I have no idea why one would remove the fuel cap as suggested in that writeup?

I'd like some good rear speakers to try to get my MJ's stereo to sound better. Currently I have some Polk 6.5" coaxial in the doors, I don't know what's actually installed in the back but they don't seem too awesome. I'm guessing they're low end Alpine to match what was in the doors. I'm lead to believe that 6x9s will fit with minimal issues? What's a good quality and intelligent choice speaker for the rear? Ideally I'd like to get a bit more bass out of the system.

The good news is that Aqualu can build a tub and box for you if you just want to make one.

It is pronounced "Willis" - However I don't say that because nobody knows WTF I'm talking about. That saw attachment at 6:30ish is scary.

They're an idea that deservedly went out of style because they suck.

I don't carry that type of stuff. If you need it, it's probably not going to be within reach, or in this case it wouldn't work anyways. All my Jeeps have crank windows... Works fine unless you lose the crank. And the only truck I ever really rolled conveniently blew the driver's window out anyway.

Track down some 70s 2wd Chevy springs and try them SOA. They're within 1" in total length, and the center pin hole was only 1" out, IIRC, so with an offset perch it would be the same. No, I have no idea how well it will work. My bagged out 2wd springs wound up being about the right height, so I never bothered to find such springs.

Really? What info? Like what I already posted?

:waving: Welcome. Just try to break your posts into separate sentences. :no:

Krustyballer16 sells a nice bumper on here. I thought it was a good deal and would order one if the shipping wouldn't kill me.

I thinks you have a ground problem.

On this note, what is the resistance on a stock Renix injector? I guess I could measure mine.

I measured the resistance of the coil at 14.4ohms. I believe the 710s are stated as being 14.3ohms, so let's call it the same. There is another P/N on them, F4SE-A1B, a Ford P/N, which I'm getting some info is also on the 710 injectors... Meaning they're going to be basically the same, the 710 might be something of an updated P/N on Bosch's part, but not different enough to warrant a superseding P/N for Ford.

What hole rains tranny fluid when you try to move it? Where you filled it from? There should be a tube and a dipstick in it. There should also be a tranny cooler somewhere, that A/C condenser is not it though, trace the lines off the tranny to see where they go. Disclaimer, I am not any sort of an expert on the 86 and earlier XJ/MJs.

I would probably find the temperature of an average day in 'Bama to be extreme. :rotfl2: If you previously cleaned up the connector for the ECM (or other ones) I would start there again. They're supposed to have a light film of corrosion preventative grease on them (typically of the dielectric type) and removing it can cause troubles down the road. Give the IAC and throttle body a cleaning too, for the few minutes it takes it rules out what can turn into some tail chasing.

Get a fine gasket scraper and pound it gently into the edge. A drywall putty knife will work too if it is stiff enough, many aren't. Or you can put a block of wood against the pan and go at it with a sledge (turn the block sideways to spread the load) but that's a bit more destructive.

Roger. I will need to check some things before I swap them, and maybe burn this tank of gas off to try to get a better idea of current fuel economy. In the meantime I guess I'll go googling to see if there is any other info out there.

Hmm. Wonder if it's better or worse? Any documentation on such? Run them and see how it goes?

According to that they have the same flow rate as the 710. But what else might be different? Coil impedance?

They were advertised as being the Ford '710' injectors, which are plug and play swaps for Renix applications. The 710 isn't considered to be as good as the 746, but they're still an upgrade from the stock ones are they are a 4 hole design with the one piece body. Edit, basically the seller sent me something that is a different P/N than what I ordered. If I dispute it I will win. I want to know if it's worth disputing, or if these are actually the same and to just run them.