DirtyComanche

I think it's fully releasing and it's just in my head. That said, talk about an awkward thing to try to bleed. I could put the vacuum pump on it and try I guess? Driving it I can't float into second or first. 3rd, 4th, 5th, no big deal, well no worse than how it normally goes when I do that (I normally use the clutch to shift, was not taught how to drive properly). The feeling of disengagement (if that is actual disengagement or not, the point where it no longer has enough bite to load the engine up) is higher up in the travel than I thought, maybe half way or a little past that. Or it changed after I bled it. I think part of the problem is I'm comparing apples to bananas because my plowtruck and JK are both very different than this thing, and they're the only manual transmission vehicles I have around here. I just spent 5 minutes in the driveway messing with it and it went into first and second basically fine every time, no massive forcing and feeling of it just not being willing to go... But it's warmer out today too...

11. And being a Canadian model the 'safety' features may not operate exactly the same.

I think I answered my own question. Bled it and there might have been a tiny amount of air in it. Very slight difference in pedal feel, or it is all in me head. :dunce: I think the synchros are pretty shot, or something along those lines. I could possibly try a different/better oil (Amsoil MTG?) and see if that helps at all, otherwise it's live with it or put a plan in place to get my spare tranny and swap it in. Conveniently I don't recall if my spare is actually in amazing shape or not, so might be wasting my time there...

At least then it's only the traction control that's trying to kill you. "NO, NO, THROTTLE! THROTTTTTTLE!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAACK!!!!" as it senses wheel slip when trying to pull onto the highway and reacts by cutting throttle while applying the brakes. :doh: That's an optional menu item easy to turn off. Which it always has been. Mine turns back on with key cycle... Just have to remember to shut it off before I try to do anything where I might need throttle. I've never looked into it, but if you could just delete it cutting throttle, or override cutting throttle if more throttle is applied, the system would work a lot nicer... Not sure if there's programmers out there that would allow a guy to play that level of a parameter, I just have a Procal so I could turn off the TPMS and make the speedo right (which is about all it can do).

My 88 is a massive PITA to get into gear if you're not moving and the engine is running. It's not a huge deal because I just downshift to first before I come to a stop, but if I leave the truck idling out of gear it is insane to try to get it into gear, pretty much any gear, even stopping to put it into reverse can be quite a frustration. Sometimes trying to jam it into reverse will produce grinding, even if not moving. Not running you can just smack it into whatever gear you want, not as easily as say my JK is, but I don't feel it's at all off. It also doesn't always shift awesome. But if I'm trying I can float the gears without the clutch. Initially I thought it was because it probably had the wrong oil in it and it was cold out, but I realized the oil type is correct. From there I assumed synchros, or another internal problem along those lines... But I'm thinking that doesn't totally make sense since I can just pop it in gear not running. So I'm thinking I should try bleeding the clutch out before I make plans to get my spare AX-15? Where should full clutch disengagement be in the pedal travel? I recall my last MJ was with the pedal damn near on the floor, and that's just how it was, this one is similar (although maybe it is not completely disengaging?)

The cable drive to signal converter in the first picture can be unscrewed from the drive gear assy and put onto the other tcase, and I believe the 2wd trans used the same setup. Somebody like Hornbrod that knows his truck intimately could answer that for sure.

At least then it's only the traction control that's trying to kill you. "NO, NO, THROTTLE! THROTTTTTTLE!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAACK!!!!" as it senses wheel slip when trying to pull onto the highway and reacts by cutting throttle while applying the brakes. :doh:

That's a terribly inconvenient solution to a transmission problem.

Would the speedo drive adapter just bolt up, or will i have to find some adapter for it? Should just go onto the existing drive gear in the tcase. Unless there is different styles that aren't the same, but I don't think so. You can test fit it by removing it from the truck and trying it on the tcase, it will be obvious if it works or not.

I forgot, the TV cable is different between 87-90 and 91+.

Use your flexplate. The speedo drive adapter from your 2wd trans 'should' work on the tcase you bought. If not the parts are readily sourced from an XJ. With a 4wd the speedo is driven off the tcase so it still functions correctly in low range.

Those shackles are installed the right way. Yeah, I just said it. They're curved, and have the reinforcing piece on the front, because on an XJ you have clearance issues against the bumper mount bolts and the channel that makes up the rear crossmember. You could flip them, but it wouldn't make any difference to anything, other than causing you a bunch of work. It would not affect height, the shape of the shackle does not matter, only the centerline hole to hole distance. You should be able to snake a grease gun into there either way.

Lots of anger in this thread. I have had good luck with the high end Moog. I don't think I've ever got an ACDelco part that was substandard in any way. Fel-Pro makes some good stuff, along with standard/cheap stuff. I've even bought lots of Dorman junk for not a lot of money, and found it to be acceptable. I don't have high regard for Crown, Omix-ADA, and BWD electrical (I don't know if that's a brand you would ever run into). There's probably a lot of other brands that I don't have high regard for, but I just don't buy that stuff and don't think about it. Generally if it's a brand I feel is suspect I treat everything on a case by case basis, and try to see the part prior to buying it. I basically can't buy dealer parts, and most eBay stuff is out of the US ($$$ shipping), so most of what I use is aftermarket or junkyard.

Please do tell me anything else you remember about the issues with this truck - besides the engine. It may help me avoid a problem or two on the road. Thanks, JJ The engine and the body was all I discussed with him. I literally have every other driveline part available or procurable as a spare, and thus didn't care. I wanted a clean body, and it wasn't perfect, and once I started getting into the issues regarding it pressurizing the cooling system I realized it wasn't a simple fix to make it drive. I bowed out from there. I think you'll find most of the front axle, steering, and suspension is worn out though. It's at that point in it's life. But those are all parts you can just buy from a parts store, Rockauto, Summit, Quadratec, etc. IMHO no big deal. The truck seemed solid from talking to him on the phone, save the engine being roasted.

Mine was in the driver's door on my 89, and I've found a few there.

Thanks. Wasn't sure if it was different in 84-86 as I never have to deal with that stuff.

Why do you need a double Cardan joint with a SYE? Double Cardans are used when the operating angle exceeds what a single u-joint can handle. It's necessary on the front because the drive shaft is so short. It's not necessary on the rear unless you've got a very tall lift -- and even then I doubt it's necessary with a long-bed MJ. I said 'normally' because every (or damn near) SYE kit out there comes with a yoke/flange for a double cardan joint. You can put a normal single 1310/1350/1410/whatever yoke on if you can find the correct one (I believe I have a couple that work, but no driveshafts that would work with them either way). That said, there is still a huge advantages to the double cardan joint in it allows you to rotate the pinion up a fair whack, thus potentially saving the pinion yoke and driveshaft from damage, also as it keeps 95% or so of the driveshaft mass at a nearly constant velocity you have less likelihood of vibrations AND shaft critical speed is not as big of a factor, and lastly the double cardan assembly is stronger at a like operating angle VS a regular u-joint, and since the u-joint at the pinion is now only operating over a small handful of degrees it is also effectively stronger. The setup has downsides in that it typically costs more money, unless you're welding perches onto the axle you must run shims to correct pinion angle, and it is more complicated and has more wear parts in general. Anyways, going full circle, the 'need' comment came from the fact that 'normally' the SYEs come with the incorrect yoke or flange to run a standard single u-joint. You still need a slip shaft to be built if you go with a different yoke, and IMHO at that point the cost difference of having a double cardan shaft built would be a wash. A more conventional slip yoke and fixed length shaft with single u-joints would be the cheapest, and if somebody is happy with that then that's what they should buy.

It's a common problem, that might be something of an extreme case. I was very close to hopping on a plane to go get this thing when it was a few owners back. Discussion with the then owner lead me to realize it had much more major issues than it appeared on the surface. At least it's now with somebody that will fix it. A TDI should be pretty freakin' awesome in one of these trucks, and I've definitely thought about it for my own 86...

Why exactly do you say this? I've been considering going to CVs but only in the name of the NP247 in my basement... I have ZJ CVs. They run a lot smoother, which is nice since I also have an autolocker in the front. There is some debate as to of how strong they are. Time will tell.

It will be fine. Don't run it up to 120mph. Pretty certain the shaft in the rear of mine right now is a retubed front, which is even smaller. Well, more like 100% certain, since I had a shop do it. It's even got rock rash on it, no issues. Being .120" wall (the 'heavy' stuff according to anything but off-road driveline shops) it helps. Is there an advantage to running a re-tubed front? Or is it part of a SYE? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk You need a 1310 double cardon type joint and a slip shaft with a SYE. Or at least normally you would. I blew up an expensive Tom Woods shaft and got a junkyard front retubed for the replacement as it has a 1310 double cardon and slip shaft on it. Is it the best solution? No. Also mine is a SWB; I would never consider it with a LWB, if anyone with a LWB reads this. The shaft critical speed is well beyond anything I'd ever dare do with the truck.

What's the resistance range on an 86 XJ/MJ fuel sender? Still 0-90ish omhs? (0-88ohms) I scoured the internet and can't find it anywhere.

It will be fine. Don't run it up to 120mph. Pretty certain the shaft in the rear of mine right now is a retubed front, which is even smaller. Well, more like 100% certain, since I had a shop do it. It's even got rock rash on it, no issues. Being .120" wall (the 'heavy' stuff according to anything but off-road driveline shops) it helps.

I'm assuming that short driveshaft you've got is out of an XJ. You could have it retubed if need be...

The crossmembers are the same. Speedo gear will need to be changed if there was a gear ratio or tire size change. If there's both a ratio and tire size change sometimes it works out. There's charts out there showing which one is needed given tire size and ratio. There is differences regarding the style of the gears and the gear holders, I don't know the rhyme or reason to it and just keep spare early style gears on hand because that's all I ever use.

Thanks for the link. That's very informative.