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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. DirtyComanche
    Interesting about the headlight chime module. I had no idea. And I think $70~ was probably a score for those seats.
  2. DirtyComanche
    Hmm. I'd better check. Not many XJs left in the junkyard here so I'm not sure if I'll find a 94 to check again. I swear I used a set of 94 seats the one time... But I go off whatever the yard wrote on the vehicle too, so that's not always accurate.
  3. DirtyComanche
    It won't affect MPG unless there is something really weird going on. And if you remove it in CA you'll probably go to jail.
  4. DirtyComanche
    Assuming you're talking about the cylinder bolted to a bracket on the top of the frame rail, center of the second pic, that is your charcoal canister/evap canister. It 'stores' the gas vapours from the gas tank, and a valve in it allows them to be vented into the intake when the engine is running. You can delete it in some jurisdictions.
  5. DirtyComanche
    And you'll want 2dr seats or to modify them so they tilt forwards.... Otherwise it sucks trying to get stuff behind the seat.
  6. DirtyComanche
    94 and earlier.
  7. DirtyComanche
    Is it nice? What did you pay? What's with the blue headlight module?
  8. DirtyComanche
    Oddly enough it has been nice here.
  9. DirtyComanche
    Or you can just buy the Raybestos line and throw the quick coupling out in favour of a union. That said, it's a PITA to fish the prebent line into place.
  10. DirtyComanche
    I have worked on it but didn't update. So I'll update a bit, this isn't actually catching it up but I don't have pictures on this laptop. No, it's not done and drivable, it's closer though. So, needed a rear bumper... Because there isn't one, and you couldn't attach a stock one even. Weld 'er up. I think the D-ring tabs were from TMR or Ruffstuff, the hitch is a PA special (comes painted even though it's a weld on, f-ing PA ), the bolts were just threaded into some nuts welded inside which are for later use (integration with the gas tank skid). Done for now. \ Youtube if you want to waste time: https://youtu.be/7S0xyFm8FIw
  11. DirtyComanche
    I made the trans crossmember into a belly skid: I didn't use countersunk hardware because I figured it would be okay for now. Maybe next time around. Nutplates were made and welded to the unibody in the rear or the rear crossmember. Then a rear crossmember (to support the NP205) was made, and a skidplate was integrated between it and the front one. Everything was test fit before final welding: Paint: I hate painting in the shop... Installed: With the NP205 there isn't much option for making the belly any flatter, it's just too big.
  12. DirtyComanche
    Nope, 4.56 with 35s is effectively lower by a fair margin. Using 1:1 drive (4th gear in the manual trans, 3rd in the auto) and 65mph you will tach 2400RPM with the 28s and 2850RPM with the 35s. Now that said the auto would normally come with lower axle gears, as the first gear ratio is fairly high, but it's honestly a mistake on the design end that they did this from a street driving perspective as the converter slip allowance means the AW4 first gear is "lower" than the Peugeot or Asin manual tranny. There is also a slight difference in OD ratio between auto and manual, .75 for the later AW4 vs .79 for the Peugeot, but it doesn't matter as much as the auto shifts automagically so people don't notice the lack of power in OD. Basically what I"m getting at is that the 3.07 gears were a terrible idea from the perspective of the driving experience, but they did make sense as far as meeting fuel economy requirements because they gave you a true miser gear for coasting. Factoring in OD ratios will produce about 1900RPM for the 5spd, and 2140rpm for the auto. 200 and change RPM will still make a significant difference to how it drives when you're that low in the RPM range.
  13. DirtyComanche
    I think the truck is totally fine, or as good as it will be short of rebuilding the engine, regearing, or adding power through modifications. A 87 Renix is 173HP on the showroom floor. That said, I'm not driving it, and power is subjective. But no, you can't just put it in 5th and cruise around. It has a gearshifter because you need to change the gears according to engine loading and speed.
  14. DirtyComanche
    Sure it was under 3klbs? Either way, with 35s and 4.56s your XJ is effectively geared lower. But I'd look at the cat, as mentioned, along with the other basic maintenance items.
  15. DirtyComanche
    There is where it is cold. I have no opinion on fluids for that transmission though.
  16. DirtyComanche

    Hello

    DirtyComanche replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in The Pub

    Funny thing about the fear of heights, I don't mind flying at all, doors off, whatever, as long as it isn't anything too stupid. Climb a tower or get even near to the edge of a cliff? Hell NO!
  17. DirtyComanche
    Shifters took a long time. I did not want cables. Much time was spent figuring out how to make a pivot bracket for the NP205 shifter. The end result put the triple sticks in a nice position where they did not interfere with the gearshift, and the seats and center console still fit. A rear mount was put on the NP205, as hanging the weight of the Ecobox and NP205 (combined is 220lbs or so) off the tailhousing of the AW4 is not recommended. I think I'll have to figure out what images come next and see if they're already uploaded. I have a ton of other images, I just have to go through them. If anyone actually wants to see anything specific just ask, I may have more pictures or can take some...
  18. DirtyComanche
    A ring gear was broken out of a NP241: There is a tool to remove them, I don't have it, it was a little violent doing it that way but it worked well enough. It was pressed into the Northwest Fab Ecobox. A Ford NP205 was cleaned up to use with the Ecobox. Painted it, turned out to be a waste of time. Because I could not make it clear the seat with the big mount on it. These are hollow, you can just grind it down, you have to cut them off and cap the area. Capped and mated to the Ecobox.
  19. DirtyComanche
    Oh thanks!
  20. DirtyComanche
    The engine was refit with a HO intake, and a V8 WJ power steering pump, the overflow bottle, washer reservoir, brake boost and master, etc were all manged to be packed in there. I hate that cone filter and will get rid of it once the summer (dust) comes around. A Ford HP D60 was built up: I went with a Spartan because they had good reviews: Installed with the hydro assist tucked in behind its own skid: A Wagoneer pitman arm was used, due to needing more up travel for the steering (and to get the frame side of the panhard as high as possible), and the box was drilled/tapped. It could then actually sit properly on it's own tires and axles. The knuckles on the D60 had to be modified to allow the tie rod to be run on the top side of the steering arms, and yet still clear the 17" Dodge wheels. A DOM sleeve was welded in with a tapered insert.
  21. DirtyComanche
    The inner fender pinch seam was trimmed slightly, and then a lot of hammer work was done to move the metal back without having to put relief cuts in it. And the inner fenders were closed back in. The battery was relocated and the wiring harness redone to run around the back of the engine, as there was no space for either with the stretched inner fenders. An upper link mount was cut through the passenger floor and braced on the top and bottom.
  22. DirtyComanche
    Some more big holes in the floor had to be patched, along with a big cover for the NP205. Rockers were cut out, and 6x2 HSS welded in. Parts of the unibody were plated, and the position of the track bar mount was worked out to clear the diff. Inner fenders in the front were cut out.
  23. DirtyComanche
    Some sweet mods were done to the hatch so it could be opened from the inside. And a gate handle was added to aid closing it from the inside. Some shock towers were added to the missing section in the wheel tubs. Metal was bent up to close them in. Everything was painted, shocks installed. Including the interior. And I started to paint around the exterior as repairs were completed.
  24. DirtyComanche
    At this point I'd built a really ugly rat rod looking Cherokee thing: A Chinesium stainless header was bought: It really didn't fit how I wanted. Nor did it clear the intake manifold for that matter. So I cut the flange off and put a V-band flange on it at a different angle. Then made a 2.5" downpipe with a flex coupling in it.
  25. DirtyComanche
    The gas tank didn't clear the diff cover with the axle shoved back, and it had to come out anyways (for repairing the floor). Some basic suggestions of how to modify the locating points for the tank were penned in place: They were cut open: And squished and welded: The forward mounts were then cleaned and modded with new ones being bent up out of 16ga sheetmetal: The tank then cleared: The seams did have to be modded to get it back far enough: With the tank moved back like that it is very vulnerable and a skid/bumper/etc is an absolute must to protect it. It's basically touching the rear valence panel (or whatever you want to call it) so in an accident the crumple zone would be the gas tank!
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