DirtyComanche

Have you got 297X shafts in the HP30? Hope it hold up to those boggers, they're a bit on the heavy side. Oh, embrace the sawzall.

If you aren't all about a resto, I'd use some square tube with some holes in it. That way they're a heck of a lot less likely to break. (Look at the ones they sell for XJs, if you don't know what I mean. I say MAKE because they're all overpriced.)

I thought that was a trim package for the XJs. :?: You're telling me.

It should fit, but the spline count will most likely be wrong. Most of the early NP tcases were 21 spline input, AFIK. Later were all 23. So, you'd need a new input gear for your tcase.

I just left mine hanging... It doesn't seem to do anything at all regardless of position. It might be broken or something... I was going to get rid of it, but if it was already broke and not a problem, why fix it?

Stock is 0* - I think. It's 6* over nothing. I swapped in a ford 8.8 when I went SOA so I don't have a baseline.

Mine are at 6* and I have maybe 7-8" of lift, not really sure. Pinion's a tad steep in reality. That's with a short bed.

Nobody knows! Things always work out different, and it'll depend how much stuff you put in the bed, etc. For a LWB, you'll probably not even need 4*. But you can be close, and it probably won't vibe. And if it does, you try again. But, I'm betting it will be fine. (I've got a shorbed, have over 7" of lift, and the pinon is set at 6*. It's bang on, reasonably a little high even. But the pinion might not be at 6*, the guy I had weld the perches on didn't seem to want to use an angle finder.)

Longbed, shortbed? You can probably get away without a Tcase drop if you set the pinion angle right. If you have a local 4x4 shop it's best because you can borrow and swap shims until it's right. But 4* should be close enough. If it doesn't work I'd build a tcase drop with some box and longer bolts, that's all they are. And the stock driveshaft will be fine unless the previous mentioned things don't work out and you need to get a SYE. You might pick up a YJ slipyoke as it allows a little more angle. Oh, you're swapping in the D44. Hmm, the pinion length might be different. If it's longer, that'll work well, if it's shorter you risk losing the driveshaft as the slipyoke will pull out at full droop. Jsut try it and see!

Definatly do that. Over christmas I was out of town and a bunch of 2.5ton military stuff went by, I was totally going "mmm, rockwells'.

There was a big white one that hung out on naxja, he sold it or parted it out. It was 1/4 elip, 4-link, I think. And there's BrettMs, he's 4-link with coils IIRC. And I've seen a couple that were dovenosed/tailed. But yeah, definatly unique. Well, wheeling an MJ is unique in itself.

You pulled all the glass? Mmm, guess you don't wheel in snow... Well, you haven't had doors for a long time anyways. Anywhos, looks good. Play with the wheelbase at all?

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/9 ... iator.html Not the best written, but you get the point. Personally I'd throw some stop leak crap in it first and avoid f'ing with it unless it does overheat.

On the 'no welding' thing. I felt it really wasn't an issue to have my rear welded up professionaly, as I had jsut freshly pulled it from an explorer. If you're going SOA, unless you have a D44, you're probably going to need an axle swap anyways. It's no trouble to have a half competent machine shop weld perches for you, truck the axle back with your still running comanche, and then swap it in. The whole thing can be done quick and easy with a ford 8.8. But if you have a D44, go for it. I guess...

I just use my 231 when things get ugly. Which is about 6 months of the year. Otherwise I only need 2wd anyways... I guess it'd be nice, but I don't need things complicated.

Why bother with the 242? I guess if you see a lot of street.

Got mine off with a fine screw driver... Just pry gently working your way around... The clips will probably just come apart.

Typo or stroker. I'd think. And welcome!

I already complained about this in another thread, IIRC. Somebody here HAS this lift. I'd check to see who, but yeah, lazy.

Thoughts? No D30! GAH! What else? Get aquainted with the sawzall. You can make a hackjob look good. Really. I'd post a pic of my hackjob, but I don't have the flares on right now. Or tires.

The unibody rails can still rust from the inside out. If you live in a salty area it's not a bad idea to flush them out by putting a hose to the access holes (or whatever the heck those things are supposed to be). But, that's not something to be too worried about. I've only seen a couple cherokees that got scary because of that. Oh, and Welcome!

I think they'd be similar on road, the KOs are very well mannered. The ride on the KOs will be a little harsher, and a little louder probably (you won't notice) and they probably won't do quite as well in wet weather, or ice. But not much different. If you like the look, go for them.

Chrysler can't tell you what they've built worth anything. Look inside the driver's door for the real (origonal) build sheet.

No offroading? No plans to go offroading? Get the Long range T/As. Will they sell them to you in a 225/75R15? A 215 doesn't look too good if you ask me. But I'd be hard pressed to justify the extra cost for a 235 if you'll never leave pavement. Oh, and I've found 235s tend to rub the control arms just slightly at full steering lock. That's on the alloy 10 spoke (or whatever they are) 'turbine' rims.

I was told just to snag the rail off a HO and adapt it to the renix, as opposed to trying to adapt the renix rail to the newer style intake. Might want to pick up a fsm for a later model cherokee. It'd be a help. Edit: Which crank are you getting? If you care, I had this written down: Crankshaft - AMC 258 cranks Year.........Casting No......Description 1971.........3199738.........For Borg Warner automatic 1972-80...3214723.........12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose - Heaviest, best for lugging. Balances easy. 1981-86...3235477.........4 counterweights, 46lb, 64mm nose 1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose - Has nose length correct, shaving is needed on other cranks. You need to cut an inch off the nose of most of them, but I assume you knew that.