DirtyComanche

Well, that's the current plan. I almost managed to get steel today, but I got sidetracked and wound up cussing out my friend's snowmobile. I think I'm going to have to do some reading on 60's snowmobile carbs. But I'm not worried about the truck not working now.

No progress! Okay, I've done some things. Nothing worth reporting really. A lot of thinking and reading though. I went out and bought a Lincoln AC-225 stick welder, and haven't found the time to run 220 to my garage. I think maybe I'll call a professional on that one. I'm caught between school and part time jobs right now. That and I go out of town every weekend too. I've just been having trouble finding time for the truck. Not to mention it's bloody cold! Oh, and my DD got the front end pushed in... It's on 35s though. 37s would be really asking for it! The D30 definatly wouldn't like that, I don't think. Anyways, I hope to start work on it again by the end of the week. I'm going to find some time to run out to my favorite machine shop and pick up some steel. That and a bunch more zip disks so I can cut all the remaining offending metal off my truck.

I've never heard of the factory Dana/Spicer trac-loc (or w/e the heck they call it) being put in the D30 front. However, there's certain cars that can be had in the junkyard quite easily, which came with D30 rears, and just happen to have a Dana/Spicer (factory) LSD. With a little effort it can be popped out and thrown in the front D30. These LSDs suck though. Something like a 85/15 power split, if even that. Also, they need to be rebuilt fairly often to really work at all. Although, that's better than the old one tire on each end spinning madly, while the other two just sit there.

Hi :!: I'm a resident post-lady of the night. You'll probably see my opinon popping up without any facts to back it up. :P Nice Jeep.

Trutracs have been around since the 80's. Supposedly they provide about a 60/40 split for power, while a true locker would be 50/50. But they don't have any noticeable lash or engagement. I sold myself on getting one because I felt it would be more streetable. Also, I like to think it'll help my front axle live longer, as there's less shock loading with it. Looking back, that's a really stupid concept. It'll never be streetable at the rate I'm going. :roll: I'm not a fan of lock-wrongs, but meh, they offer a lot of bang for the buck. I'm not convinced they'd be really nice in snow/ice or being used in a true DD.

What type of LSD? Anyways, with a locker as long as your driveshaft is balanced it'll be nicely streetable in 2wd. I'd recommend spending the dough and getting a Detroit. Or on a side note, perhaps a trutrac would work for you? I have one, not sure how it works, still in its box :D

I'd not use the longer shackles if you haul crap. Well, you could, but... Find a nice donor leaf pack, another MJ would be best. Just make sure it has enough arch and enough length. Take out the main leaf, cut the eyes and shackles off. Insert under your main leaf, reassemble your pack, and enjoy. It'll give you some lift (haven't a clue how much) but it'll stiffen your springs up a bit, which is a good idea regardless. It'll also help prevent hosing your springs if you back up a rock or something... But if you like shackles, buy shackles! It's your truck.

I've always wanted a CJ-10. Unfotrunatly, the sold like 300 in Canada. I don't think I'll be finding one anytime soon. And that kit thing is way to expensive. Just break out the sawzall and the sledgehammer.

At the very least you'll need shafts with the 297X Ujoints. Even then, you're on borrowed time IMHO. You can get a 'super 30' kit or just get custom chromoly shafts, but then you've actually made your weak point the R&P. And DON'T DRAG/PULL ANYTHING IN REVERSE! The R&P is even weaker in reverse on the HPD30. Oh, and truss the SOB, and reinforce the link towers. Otherwise you're gonna have some fun. However, it will work, and hold up to non-harcore wheeling. I'd just plan to carry lots of spare shafts.

That depends how much you love your sawzall.

One's a cherokee and the other's a comanche...

You won't need a rear end, just a rear driveshaft as the one you've got will be about 10" too long. Although, if you have a D35 rear end, I'd say "Hey, might as well get rid of it aswell." But that depends on what you're going to do with it. Which leads me to asking, what are your plans? A small lift, 31" tires at most? Leave it mostly stock? Or try to throw 40" tires under it? The full time/part time Np242 will bolt up to an AX-15. I think certain cherokees would come with the AX-15 already mated too one, again to save money and headaches. The spline counts on the transmission outputs and inputs did change every now and again; I could get you a conclusive list if you feel you'll need it. One thing to be aware with it is that it is slightly weaker than a NP231 (part time only tcase) in stock form, but doesn't have much in the way of upgrade options. A SYE for a 242 does not replace the main output shaft, which seems to be a point prone to failure on the 231. Wether the 242's output shaft is as weak, I don't know; as I've never torn one apart. NV3500 came in 00-01 cherokees. It probably comes in a bunch of other vehicles too. It's stronger than a AX-15 and synchronized in reverse. It'll cost a pretty penny though. I'll also point out that there's a certain point where you have to debate keeping your current 'manche. Buying one that is already 4wd would save headaches and money if you're going to just keep it stock or very mild. The next best option is to buy a whole cherokee that has the options you want as a donor. I'm pretty sure you could get a 87-88 Cherokee with a 4.0/AX-15/NP242/D44 and non-vacuum disconnect HPD30. It's be slightly rare, but there's lots of cherokees out there, and it would be the best bet for a parts donor. Edit, I really want to have somebody make a good writeup for the 2wd - 4wd swap, as it comes up quite a lot and would probably be clearer than my long, rambling and disjointed posts. Then we could have a tech sticky!

You'll need to mate a transfer case to a 4wd transmission in order to use it. Which will mean you need a rear driveshaft too. The good news is you can not worry about the front axle and drveshaft for a while. That and normally they'll sell you the tranny tcase combo cheaperish... And yes, AX-15 or the newer NV3500.

Depends where you live. Typically I've found the law to be if they were removable from the factory, it's legal. So, that'd mean no. Contact your local authorities and make an inquiry.

I need to do that. Any auto parts store should sell fuel injection safe rubber hosing, right? All the stuff I ever see is clearly marked "not for use with fuel injection".

At 5.5 you'll need a track bar, UCAs and LCAs, and drop brackets or long arms if you care about ride. The steering should be okay, a drop pitman arm might be an idea. A ZJ will yeild one. Yes, shocks and brake lines too. Might need a steering box brace too, even if you don't wheel it. I don't see why you'd use the smaller coil and a spacer instead, pretty much going to have the same issues. Unless you mean rear springs, in which case, yes that'd be easier. And if you SOA with longer shackles, you're going to be looking at 7" of lift.

It's inline... Behind/below the back of the driver's door, on the inside of the uniframe. If you trace the fuel line from the gas tank there's no way to miss it. At least, that's where it should be.

A renix 4.0 that's tuned up correctly with a 5spd can get 25 with a fair amount of ease. You have to drive right though.

Whats wrong with the rustys LA kit? Lots. They can't weld; which is somewhat disturbing on suspension componenets. Nor can they powdercoat, or perhaps they can, but choose to powdercoat rusted metal. While powdercoat isn't a big deal for me, as I am a spraycan junkie, however it's still sloppy for what you pay. The whole crossmember which the arms bolt onto, is held in place by essentially the stock hardware. Yeah, the kit comes with unibody tie in plates, but it still is going to come down to the 4 M8X1.5s (8.8) that are threaded into the stock nutserts (is that the right term?). Or maybe they aren't the weak point, maybe it's the 2 Gr5 5/8" bolts that hold the f'ing arms to the crossmember. I am sorry if I come off as an a$$hole, but for however much it is I spent, couldn't they have used Gr8 hardware? That and the design sucks, as the arm mounts hang down below the crossmember, so there's no advantage to it as far as ground clearance goes in comparsion with any of the other kits. The tie in plate crap is a joke too. I just think it's blah. I'm sure people will tell me "It's strong enough" and "You won't break that" but that's not the point. I feel it's quite lackluster for the price. That and it's not likely to be just my safety on the line, if one of my suspension arms fails at high speeds, and either a passanger of mine, or somebody who is not in my truck, gets hurt - I ain't gonna be happy; to say the least. Oh, BTW, it won't really fit an MJ, it seems. I could have made it fit by enlarging a bunch of the bolt holes, but I don't really feel like it. So, I'm going to sleeve the unibody correctly.

Don't buy the rusty's long arm kit. Expect to be swapping axles.

I'd go exo, otherwise eventually you're not going to have much left... Besides, it's all the rage with the 'yota boys.

An angle grinder, hole saw, and a lot of time can do ANYTHING a plasma can do.

Hello 8) Looks like a dryer vent hose? No, it's just to aid warmup. Fuel injection really doesn't need that. If you're talking about the EGR hose, yeah, it's kinda important. I'd assume so. And it'll be the same process, minus dealing with a t-case. Rear main sucks. There's lot of tricks for dealing with it. Somebody else will point you in the right direction. Valve cover seal is easy.

I like how they seemd to have f'd up boring that thing. Makes me feel REAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAL safe.

You need the rad and and rad support from a 4.0 version. And a bunch of other crap from the front area. You'll basically need a decent donor vehicle. Where's your bud's MJ wrecked?