DirtyComanche

The unibody rails can still rust from the inside out. If you live in a salty area it's not a bad idea to flush them out by putting a hose to the access holes (or whatever the heck those things are supposed to be). But, that's not something to be too worried about. I've only seen a couple cherokees that got scary because of that. Oh, and Welcome!

I think they'd be similar on road, the KOs are very well mannered. The ride on the KOs will be a little harsher, and a little louder probably (you won't notice) and they probably won't do quite as well in wet weather, or ice. But not much different. If you like the look, go for them.

Chrysler can't tell you what they've built worth anything. Look inside the driver's door for the real (origonal) build sheet.

No offroading? No plans to go offroading? Get the Long range T/As. Will they sell them to you in a 225/75R15? A 215 doesn't look too good if you ask me. But I'd be hard pressed to justify the extra cost for a 235 if you'll never leave pavement. Oh, and I've found 235s tend to rub the control arms just slightly at full steering lock. That's on the alloy 10 spoke (or whatever they are) 'turbine' rims.

I was told just to snag the rail off a HO and adapt it to the renix, as opposed to trying to adapt the renix rail to the newer style intake. Might want to pick up a fsm for a later model cherokee. It'd be a help. Edit: Which crank are you getting? If you care, I had this written down: Crankshaft - AMC 258 cranks Year.........Casting No......Description 1971.........3199738.........For Borg Warner automatic 1972-80...3214723.........12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose - Heaviest, best for lugging. Balances easy. 1981-86...3235477.........4 counterweights, 46lb, 64mm nose 1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose - Has nose length correct, shaving is needed on other cranks. You need to cut an inch off the nose of most of them, but I assume you knew that.

I'd go to propane and go with about a 12:1 compression if I was to do it. I don't like paying for regular gas, much less mid or supreme. Yeah, I know, it'll add at most a buck a fill... But I really like propane. So damn cheap here! Oh yeah, port that HO head out yourself. It's easy, and worth a bunch more HP. And if you can't find one, port a renix one, it'll still work out okay. Decided on a cam yet? Going to deck the block to get a .040" squench? Are you planning on using the renix computer/fuel injection? Apparently it'll take a little work to adapt to the 99+ intake. And get your TB bored! It's going to be the big restrictive point otherwise. Damn Jeeps, it all jsut adds up.

Good luck! I might do that with mine when it kicks the bucket. Maybe. It might never die too.

Close enough. They're pretty much the same until you get back towards the seatbelt mounts, then things get a little funky I think. The floor also angles slightly different. It's just sheetmetal though. I have a little friend called a sledgehammer for problems involving that. That's based on how a fullsized center console out of an XJ fits in an MJ, and what I've heard.

I think you're probably going to have to remove all of it. Some will be the same, but not enough to patch anything together reliably. It would just wind up being easier gutting everything and pulling everything from the donor. Although the heater controls should be the same. The gauges won't, I'm pretty sure as IIRC the 91 won't be mechanical. At least the speedo that is. But that's my take on it. I personally hate HOs so I'm not very framiliar with them. That and there's very few of them in the junkyards around here for me to poke at.

Product mostly. They actually gave me pretty good customer service, although between having my Canadian accent and Rusty having that southern accent, there was a lot of "Pardon?" and "Sorry, say again?". They ship UPS, and if I do it over I'd find somebody who'd ship with another currior. But anyways, they can't weld. They also don't know how to operate a metal brake, as one of the brackets they gave me was bent past 90*. The LA kit has a lot of flaws, and few of them scare the crap out of me. Powdercoat sucks (if you care). A lot of their stuff isn't too well thought out (check out their bar pin eliminators). Oh, they didn't mention the LA kit had never been put on a comanche. Certain products have a really bad rep, such as their track bar. There's other things too. However, their springs are good - as they aren't made in house. And a lot of their other stuff is certainly acceptable. I'd just stay away from their critical suspension components.

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merc ... sus_xj_par 4" lift springs. I don't advocate buying anything from them, but they might be a viable option for some people. (Yeah, you think that I'd not post their products if I hate them so much)

Tha shiz gangsta, yo. Looks good. :lol:

45Nm or 33ft-lbs. According to the 89 service manual.

Auto? AW4. It's strong, don't worry about it.

Depends on how cheap he can get an 8.8. The D44 isn't bad, weak tubes though. If he's only going to run 33s it should work out... If larger than 33s, you might as well look at all the other options, ie fullwidths.

It's all dandy, but it has to match your front gear ratio. And the spring perches will be slightly the wrong width, plus on the top of the tubes instead of the bottom.

I'm kinda wondering why I started talking about front driveshafts. You wanted rear. I think I just got excited thinking about square ones and forgot to think.

Tom Woods - http://www.4xshaft.com/ High Angle - http://www.highangledriveline.com/ Tom Woods is top notch. They had mine made and shipped in 2 days. They're expensive though. High Angle has a good reputation amongst the hardcores. I'd probably try them if I was to do it over. Oh yeah, it's not really a CV driveshaft. It's a double cardon. Yeah, I just have to be picky. CVs suck.

Regarding the SYE for SOA, I'd give you a strong 'perhaps'. Try without one at first. Steal the slipyoke off a YJ (it allows greater angles) and use your stock shaft. Depending how much droop you have the slipyoke might pull out of the tcase, so watch out for that. If you swap in a different rear with a slightly longer pinon, or find a driveshaft 1-2" longer that might work well. However, you'll still have the weak sauce stock rear output shaft and if you lose/break your driveshaft you'll lose all your tcase fluid. If you're cheap, get a RE hack'n'tap. Then go look up the spicer part that adapts the useless RE flange to a 1310 Ujoint and get a front driveshaft from a blazer/bronco/fullsize truck from a junkyard. If you get lucky, something will be the right length. If not, you'll have to shorten it. If you're really cheap and still have a working CAD axle and an open front diff, you can skip balancing the front dshaft. Or you can even use square ones! Oh, that's just exciting to think about. Personally, I have a AA HD SYE and a Tom Woods Dsaft. Money, well spent? Edit: Go more than 2". You can do 3.5"-4"ish cheaply.

Cherokees with ABS should have had 297X ujoints. So, assumably you could get the CAD compatible parts from them. Although, I'd probably just do the delete if I failed to find the needed parts. However, I've never seen a cherokee with ABS. Oh yeah, SOA will give you about 4.5-7" in the rear. Match your front coils/spacers accordingly. Edit: You've got a peugeot. Expect to lose a gear or five at some point down the road.

You could use your stock pump, depending on the cell. Most however, won't allow it. There's a thread on pirate to make a TJ pump fit in a cell, though. And avoid mounting an aluminum cell by the 'ears' as you'll break all the welds. Straping it in place with something with a bit of give will prevent this.

Why do you say that. I know a few ppl running them, and they have had zero isuues. I agree they are pricey, and you can build a D44 with a j-yard housing for a lil more, but why do you say that? Patrick That's why I say it. Throwing that much money in the D30 is just, ugh. I guess if you already had a lot in it, it might make sense... I think it would make more sense to at that point sell your built D30 to somebody else, and find another front. I don't know what they retail for, but I heard $1600 all said and done from a local guy here. That's Canadian + 14% tax and shipping. Might have included having to machine rotors? I don't know, I don't remember everything that has to be done for the hub conversion.

Loose connector on the blower motor, I guess?

I had to give away a 'perfectly good' 86. Ohwell, I would have just wound up molesting it more anyways.

The front driveshaft will spin, so it better be balanced/undamaged. You can test that first by just putting it in 4Hi and taking a run up the street and see if you get any vibes/clanks. The locker won't rachet or behave unprdicatble in 2wd though. If you do the cable actuated (posi-lock) vac disco replacement, you can have 3Lo with a locker, which would give you a turning advantage if you're running really tight stuff. Although, that's not exactly a knockout feature. Short answer is it'll work good. The hub conversion is a ripoff.