DirtyComanche

Lowering the hangers will get them caught up on things...

They aren't smart like that. They billed/sent me a short arm kit the first time (should have just @#$%ing kept it) when I specifically said the long arm one 5 times. I also asked if there'd be any fittament problems with the LA kit and I got a "Nope, should just bolt right up". Right. After you rebuild half of it yourself.

I'd bastard pack/slightly longer shackles it all the way. But I'm like that.

Should. They are identical if I remember right.

Uh, phone them up and b*@$£. They will warranty the springs as it doesn't cost them anything (they're outsourced).

Got to give him credit for taking that thing out... I thought I was being reckless when I wheeled my mom's 04 WJ.

My guess would be too thin of tubes. They aren't truck axles...

What size bogger? They're a tad on the heavy side... 33s would be the max I'd run. Wait, that'd kill the D35... Okay, 31s would be the max I'd run with a D35. What I suggest: Either decide you want to go big and be prepared to spend some coin OR Go fairly small. Shoot for 33's with the D30 front. Pick up an XJ/MJ D44 or Ford Explorer 8.8 (drum brake ones can be had dirt cheap) and ditch that D35. Decide if you want 4.10s or deeper gears, an 8.8 can be found with 4.10s easily to save dhalf the regearing cost. Spring over the rear (not hard as you're already swapping the axle) and get some 5" coils for the front. Get some longer LCAs and a track bar. 4 shocks. Get YJ front brake lines, dakota rear line. Call it quits. It won't be optimal as the control arm angle will suck, same with the caster... But it would be cheaper and then you can decide if 33's are too small.

Hmm, my birthday is today too... Weird.

I believe the term is "prindle" but you're on your own beyond that... Oh, to check tcase fluid, loosen the top plug on the back of it. You'll see if you look at it. The fluid level should be even with the top plug. It takes ATF, jsut so you know what the fluid should look like. But it's probably the linkage.

Classic rock, not so classic rock, some metal, modern rock, and a tiny bit of rap...

No 4wd on dry pavement? Wussy. (Honestly, it can take the beating. You will accelerate the wear on the tcase chain, but otherwise it won't be a huge deal.)

You have to weld new spring perches on. You could go SOA with the ones that are already there, with predictably bad results. It's not hard. Just gotta cut the old ones off and weld new ones on.

More of your oldschool bigassed machine shop. They do welding on railway equipment, tractors, trailers, and make bridge sections and other huge crap. To them I'm jsut a little guy, but that doesn't mean they treat me badly.

Oh, I found a J20, 4wd, 1981... I just might.

Flat black spraypaint ranks up there with beer and donuts.

I think it looks good.

Might. I'm a little lazy. Anyways, the 40" of weld is to finish the unibody plating. That pic was before I had done any. It's a combination of angle, plate, and box, all .250 wall. Pat, it's flat black bedliner! :D It needs to be touched up a bit, but that's easy with this stuff. And I've got a rusty's x-member for the LAs to mount to, it's 3/8 plate, I think. The only modifying it needs (for now) is the holes to be enlarged so I can use my massive hardware to hold it to the unibody plating. Other than they have it drilled with oval holes, and you can't center a hole saw worth $#!& over them... Lots of swearing, but I'll make it work. I'm gonna build a new x-member at some point because the design of rusty's is completely retarded. Oh, I buy all of my steel from a machine shop. As long as I go in there in the morning they don't charge me cutting fees, and they give me scrap for free all the time. They gave me a 1'x4' peice of 14 gauge to practice welding on, free!

Uh, well, I'm getting somewhere. Actually, I've just got to finish modifying my forking crossmember (I think I should just spend the $20 on a hole expander), lay down about 40" more weld (I'm mostly done, it won't take me long, I just have to make sure the crossmemeber fits) and then I will have a reinforced unibody with a retarded long arm setup. Well, I have throw the other track bar, coil springs, and control arms on there, but that won't take long (better knock on some wood). Then, fix the front brakes. Which should be easy, other than I'm missing the brackets for the stainless lines. Then fix the back brakes, which won't take long. Then get a temp permit and drive it out of the garage and get the front regeared. Then it's pretty much good to go. Somewhat recent pic. Lots of mess. Image Not Found

I'd say depending: You want to go moderatly big and replace the D30, then I'd get it and a matching waggy front. Waggy fronts are cheap to buy, but you'll have to regear them. But the width will be the same as that of the wider toy axle, at least I'm pretty sure it'll be almost bang on. But if you're not looking to replace the D30, get an 8.8. They're nice and easy.

Nobody knows anything about Comanches. Don't be suprised. That or they were being sneaky...

Yeah, it matter which toy axle. The V6 one is great, 6 on something bolt patttern normally (matches grand wagoneers, if you want a front axle). The 4cyl one blows goats.

I was actually thinking about picking up and XJ and using it as a parts donor at some point. Not much chance of getting a decent MJ. Hell, maybe I should fix the one I've got. Or maybe a full-size ford as a parts donor. Hmm.

Just go grab isolators off an XJ, they're the same, trust me. Then make spacers if you really have too much time. Or shop around online. Or get a bunch of stock isolators and stack them.

Ah, got the call from the professional. One of the welds holding the dip stick tube in place failed, causing a slow leak. Until it really failed, and I lost a fair amount of fluid at some point on monday... Assumably that was after I filled it. I also had a ford dipstick (only god knows why) so what it read as being within the reasonable range was a bit out. Tranny is hosed. Grr. So, I think I'm going to get a new beater.