DirtyComanche

That worked well. Only issue was that I then backed it out of the garage without brakes, but forgot to close my door... Yeah, so, umm, doorless until I fix the hinge pins. (Yes, I am just reaffirming my previous statement that I am an idiot.)

That's a vacuum issue. Have fun.

I'm leaning towards the silver. The OD is kinda puky.

Apparently they're 'close enough' that with a fair amount of swearing, it will bolt up. Not ideal for your springs or anything else. But I've never bothered to measure to confirm this.

I won't speak for him; but it looks like a 3/4 eliptical setup. I contemplaited one. Then got lazy.

I was thinking the other type... Damn, I'm an idiot. Well, let's see if I have any of those here. I have a sinking feeling they're all 150Km away at our cabin...

Maybe... The problem is it's a cyclindrical sleeve. It'll just slip. I think. That's why I was going to weld the flat bar on it. I really don't want to waste my nickel rod. I have trouble getting it.

Or a couple peice of box tubing (say 2x2x.250) and an angle grinder will make them for well, very little.

But if he has a sledgehammer, sawzall, or angle grinder, it would soon become a 'non-issue'.

I'll give him a try. Hmm, next problem... Any good way to turn the adjusting sleeve on the stock drag link? I need to turn mine about 20 times, I've managed to get it around about once using pliers. I then thought I'd make things easy and weld some flat bar onto it so I could turn it with a regular old wrech. Turns out it's cast. I'm not wasting my nickel rod on that. I guess I could buy the proper tool? (Whatever that is)

Well. it's pretty simple. I've got stainless front lines from Rusty's (came with the horrid kit) but no brackets for them. It seems I can't find the brackets anywhere locally, and I think it'd be a pain to order them. So, do you think I could get away with YJ lines and dropped brackets? Thats with 7"~ of lift and what appears to be a very flexy suspension setup... For the price of shipping and the time it would take me, these are easiest as they are in stock locally, and not too expensive. It's that or if I can find someplace that will sell me just the brackets, and ship to Canada...

All 2.5s had open systems, IIRC.

They should. The trans are only about 1/2" different in length. I think.

Lowering the hangers will get them caught up on things...

They aren't smart like that. They billed/sent me a short arm kit the first time (should have just @#$%ing kept it) when I specifically said the long arm one 5 times. I also asked if there'd be any fittament problems with the LA kit and I got a "Nope, should just bolt right up". Right. After you rebuild half of it yourself.

I'd bastard pack/slightly longer shackles it all the way. But I'm like that.

Should. They are identical if I remember right.

Uh, phone them up and b*@$£. They will warranty the springs as it doesn't cost them anything (they're outsourced).

Got to give him credit for taking that thing out... I thought I was being reckless when I wheeled my mom's 04 WJ.

My guess would be too thin of tubes. They aren't truck axles...

What size bogger? They're a tad on the heavy side... 33s would be the max I'd run. Wait, that'd kill the D35... Okay, 31s would be the max I'd run with a D35. What I suggest: Either decide you want to go big and be prepared to spend some coin OR Go fairly small. Shoot for 33's with the D30 front. Pick up an XJ/MJ D44 or Ford Explorer 8.8 (drum brake ones can be had dirt cheap) and ditch that D35. Decide if you want 4.10s or deeper gears, an 8.8 can be found with 4.10s easily to save dhalf the regearing cost. Spring over the rear (not hard as you're already swapping the axle) and get some 5" coils for the front. Get some longer LCAs and a track bar. 4 shocks. Get YJ front brake lines, dakota rear line. Call it quits. It won't be optimal as the control arm angle will suck, same with the caster... But it would be cheaper and then you can decide if 33's are too small.

Hmm, my birthday is today too... Weird.

I believe the term is "prindle" but you're on your own beyond that... Oh, to check tcase fluid, loosen the top plug on the back of it. You'll see if you look at it. The fluid level should be even with the top plug. It takes ATF, jsut so you know what the fluid should look like. But it's probably the linkage.

Classic rock, not so classic rock, some metal, modern rock, and a tiny bit of rap...

No 4wd on dry pavement? Wussy. (Honestly, it can take the beating. You will accelerate the wear on the tcase chain, but otherwise it won't be a huge deal.)