DirtyComanche

I just bought $426 Cnd worth of steel. My wallet bleeds. That was more than my 35s.

Always good to see some stock appearing LWB action.

You can make them yourself with an angle grinder and a couple peices of box tubing... Although you're spring under, which makes is a tad more tricky. You'd just have to grind a bit more. Strangely enough, I can't actually think of anybody who makes them right now.

Oh right, their 12 bolt. I think there's only 3 gear ratios for it...

Because you were tryng to build on a budget :nuts: :rotf: You didnt listen to what ppl were telling you :thwak: and you are from :Canadaflag: and we all know how you all like to do things differently up there :smart: No, I read too much JeepForum :oops: and they're all yuppies :banana: and convinced me that I wouldn't need to. But hey, I think I might be able to trade my cutlass supreme for a D60.

What backspacing do those rims have? Any spacers? (Again I'm going 'why the f' didn't I just go fullwidth?')

The Izusu D44 uses different gears, methinks. But I only read the izusu stuff when I'm REALLY bored.

With mine it wasn't the handle breaking. My release rod touched the battery and went kaboom, and lit the engine bay on fire... Thanks for the past help Pete... This should be stickied. That reminds me, the latest issue of 4WD mag, or maybe it was peterson's 4x4 had an article on the crappy things about cherokees. They didn't know how to release the hood this way. They seemed to think that it was perfectly acceptable to just get the sawzall and cut until it popped open. While normally I'm not against sawzalling offending metal, I found it a little odd that they didn't know a better way.

With me and my DD it came down to this: $1200 in transmission work would buy a lot of gas. Therefor, I can drive the MJ instead. Sound theory. Practice, well, that's a different story.

They're a bit longer than you'd want, but not by enough to affect ride height noticably. They are the right width. And he wants 2" of lift! So 5" eye to eye would really not work... Anyways, those shackles look good.

Yeah, just if you are going to rebuild it... Remove it from the vehicle first! (Hey, it was worth a shot)

I cut the ubolts off of my extra D35 just because it was so amsuing watching them blow apart... Cordless sawzall eh? I should invest in one of those...

Oh, a little tidbit. Full size chevy drop shackles (2" drop) are actually almost exactly what you want. They'll be about 1/4" out or so. No biggy. But hey, part of the way I learned to weld was by fabricating the unibody reinforcements that hold my entire front suspension in place. We'll see if I regret that...

How much do you trust your fab skills? A failed shackles can lead to lots of nasty things. Yes, you could build your own. You could make them considerable stronger than the stock ones. But do you trust yourself? And they can contribute to spring death. Don't overflex them and they'll probably be okay.

Actually, I'm not too worried about that. Maybe because I didn't break one. Or because the stock bolts were a LOT shorter than they could have been. The good news is I figured out how to modify it so all 4 bolts will fit. The bad news is I'm too tired to do it.

On your TJ or XJ maybe. Not on a MJ. Unless they changed that in 91... And did you look at the shift linkage while you're there? You can take it off the tcase and wiggle the tcase into Lo. It's a b*@$£. Then yu can at least know if it's the linkage or case.

Do you have all of the right bulbs? I'd try just buying a couple of packages of new ones... There's no telling what a PO might have done. And make sure all of the bulbs are firmly locked in palce on the tailights. Mine were doing weird things last night because one of the bulbs got loose.

You've even got the HOT link in your sig, duh... Anyways, I guess I should just pull the thing apart. And probably find some Gr8 bolts :roll:

My whole trans mount is pretty weird. I would actually be able to thread the bolts in with only minor modification, other than there's nothing flat for them to seat on once you torque them down. Hence I didn't bother making them fit... It probably could be done, though. But I'd rather not bother if it should be alright. Don't the autos only use two? They are autos though. Edit: You're on BC4x4 or Heard of Turtles or something, eh? I recognize the truck.

How critical is it that you have all of the bolts that hold the trans to the mount threaded? The Ba-10/5 has 4 bolts, and I could only thread the two front ones because of alignment issues. (Long story) I don't see it as being likely to be an issue, as the trans mount takes all of the shock off of it, and the positioning of the bolts. But 4Lo does have some serious torque... Think it'll be all right? That is, providing I keep the two bolts bloody tight?

It's be close. Probably will clear with the 3" lift. If it's a little too long, well you can always go a little taller...

I'm with you Pete, I like the lines of the stock trucks. There's a couple XJs on naxja that have similar front internal cage work done.

Yeah, C-clips were sometime after 89. Both my 86 and 89 had non-c rearends. Personally I'd not spend the coin on the D35 though. It may seem like a deal now, but there's a reason for it.

I like making things, it's why I got into this.

I'd not make that style. Maybe I'll lose some strength to the fact that I am only reinforcing the drivers side with my system. I'm not worried though, once I get around to making a bumper and a few other things the front should all be stiffened up enough.