DirtyComanche

With mine it wasn't the handle breaking. My release rod touched the battery and went kaboom, and lit the engine bay on fire... Thanks for the past help Pete... This should be stickied. That reminds me, the latest issue of 4WD mag, or maybe it was peterson's 4x4 had an article on the crappy things about cherokees. They didn't know how to release the hood this way. They seemed to think that it was perfectly acceptable to just get the sawzall and cut until it popped open. While normally I'm not against sawzalling offending metal, I found it a little odd that they didn't know a better way.

With me and my DD it came down to this: $1200 in transmission work would buy a lot of gas. Therefor, I can drive the MJ instead. Sound theory. Practice, well, that's a different story.

They're a bit longer than you'd want, but not by enough to affect ride height noticably. They are the right width. And he wants 2" of lift! So 5" eye to eye would really not work... Anyways, those shackles look good.

Yeah, just if you are going to rebuild it... Remove it from the vehicle first! (Hey, it was worth a shot)

I cut the ubolts off of my extra D35 just because it was so amsuing watching them blow apart... Cordless sawzall eh? I should invest in one of those...

Oh, a little tidbit. Full size chevy drop shackles (2" drop) are actually almost exactly what you want. They'll be about 1/4" out or so. No biggy. But hey, part of the way I learned to weld was by fabricating the unibody reinforcements that hold my entire front suspension in place. We'll see if I regret that...

How much do you trust your fab skills? A failed shackles can lead to lots of nasty things. Yes, you could build your own. You could make them considerable stronger than the stock ones. But do you trust yourself? And they can contribute to spring death. Don't overflex them and they'll probably be okay.

Actually, I'm not too worried about that. Maybe because I didn't break one. Or because the stock bolts were a LOT shorter than they could have been. The good news is I figured out how to modify it so all 4 bolts will fit. The bad news is I'm too tired to do it.

On your TJ or XJ maybe. Not on a MJ. Unless they changed that in 91... And did you look at the shift linkage while you're there? You can take it off the tcase and wiggle the tcase into Lo. It's a b*@$£. Then yu can at least know if it's the linkage or case.

Do you have all of the right bulbs? I'd try just buying a couple of packages of new ones... There's no telling what a PO might have done. And make sure all of the bulbs are firmly locked in palce on the tailights. Mine were doing weird things last night because one of the bulbs got loose.

You've even got the HOT link in your sig, duh... Anyways, I guess I should just pull the thing apart. And probably find some Gr8 bolts :roll:

My whole trans mount is pretty weird. I would actually be able to thread the bolts in with only minor modification, other than there's nothing flat for them to seat on once you torque them down. Hence I didn't bother making them fit... It probably could be done, though. But I'd rather not bother if it should be alright. Don't the autos only use two? They are autos though. Edit: You're on BC4x4 or Heard of Turtles or something, eh? I recognize the truck.

How critical is it that you have all of the bolts that hold the trans to the mount threaded? The Ba-10/5 has 4 bolts, and I could only thread the two front ones because of alignment issues. (Long story) I don't see it as being likely to be an issue, as the trans mount takes all of the shock off of it, and the positioning of the bolts. But 4Lo does have some serious torque... Think it'll be all right? That is, providing I keep the two bolts bloody tight?

It's be close. Probably will clear with the 3" lift. If it's a little too long, well you can always go a little taller...

I'm with you Pete, I like the lines of the stock trucks. There's a couple XJs on naxja that have similar front internal cage work done.

Yeah, C-clips were sometime after 89. Both my 86 and 89 had non-c rearends. Personally I'd not spend the coin on the D35 though. It may seem like a deal now, but there's a reason for it.

I like making things, it's why I got into this.

I'd not make that style. Maybe I'll lose some strength to the fact that I am only reinforcing the drivers side with my system. I'm not worried though, once I get around to making a bumper and a few other things the front should all be stiffened up enough.

Nah, I can do it for $8. I've got enough plate lying around, I think. Even if I have to get more, it won't be much (scrap, free or close to). The pipe I have. I've got about 40Lbs of rod lying around, and even then I'm not going to use very much for such a thing. I've got the drill bits, taps, dies, etc coming out of my @$$. Only thing I'd actually likely need to buy is bolts, which guessing on their length and grade will run me about $6. Okay, so maybe I won't make it in under $8, but I will make it in under the $60. And my time is worth nothing. I'm unemployed again. So it's work on the truck or go get drunk.

The MORE one is a peice of tube with a clamp on the end? What size tires were you running? I've got 35's, and I'm a little worried after I watched the unibody 'bend' when I had LT235/75/R15s on it and got kinda bound up between a stump and a rock...

Where I live, there is no "buying one". Well, I could, but shipping will generally cost as much as the part. And when it is something simple, I can make it myself. If I was to copy the C-Rok brace, it would cost me about $8 Cnd. all said and done. It retails for $60~ US. (The c-rok brace is jsut a peice of plate that bolts to the outside of the unibody, basically. I also think it is too weak. I think they also sell a weld in one, for god knows how much) Oh, I like welding things in. If I ever have to remove it, I have an angle grinder. Edit: It's JKS that makes the weld in brace. $149.00 US for both sides.

So, who's running what? Anybody build their own? Pics? Since I'm a cheap bastard; I think I will take 2 peices of .250 plate and drill half a dozen rosettes in each, plus the three holes for the steering box. Then hole saw out the original mounting holes in the unibody (not looking foreward to that) and put some pipe in as a sleeve. Assumably the sleeves should be welded to the unibody, then the plate welded to the unibody. But the sleeves should not be welded to the plate? (I can't think of how I would do that, either way) Should this work well enough? Or do you think I could fit some channel or box (with the top cut off) over the unibody, instead of plate? Mm, maybe I should go look.

He's got somewhat longer lower CAs. But yeah, not ideal. I'll point out I've seen 5.5"~ on stock uppers and lowers. Not gonna comment on how well it worked.

Harsh, that MJ was pure sex.

They fear change.