DirtyComanche

Hmm, my local club put out a forest fire (before it really got going) last weekend that some camper had started. Not really a great point, but the only reason that there's not a huge fire in southern BC right now is because there was a bunch of 4x4ers there with shovels and buckets. The forest is already bloody dry. But I can't think of anything that you'd reference.

Looks like she works gooder! :cheers:

Easy. Get a new centering pin. Cut the old one. Cut down a donor main leaf. Stick back together, crank down new centering pin. Oh, cut the clips off too.

It will, you just need a new (HO) exhaust manifold if you want things to work right. Or is it a HO intake manifold you want? Hell, I cand't remember. The 2000+ (I think) intake flows better than the stock HO/renix ones, worht some HP. But I think you want that aluminum head that somebody makes...

I was going to make hanging storage boxes. Still might. I'll keep ya posted.

Well then, guess you'll have to build an aluminum head 4.6 stroker. That'll get the job done. Pricey though. Atlas = 3 grand. There's a lot of thigns I'd get before an atlas.

Am I drunk or do you want to run a spacer on one side and offset the spring perches to make up for it? A little unorthadox. I have 1.25" on each side and the track doesn't match the front. And why an anti-sawy bar? Gonna be rally racing?

At that point it makes mroe sense to do a SBC swap. It's not jeep; but the 4.0 wasn't ment for the drag strip. Or an AMC 360 if you've got to keep it Jeep. But anyways, axles first. Better rear, and possibly a front. Depending...

I need to figure out the whole rollbar thingo. I'm torn on what to do about that... But it'll be square tube

It's not like bedliner, it never really dries. It stays kinda tacky. Well, until it gets dirty. Well, it's rubbery. But it won't chip off, and it's hard to scrap off. I just touch mine up every now and again as I tend to drag my belly over things. But it'll only save your underbody! Any paint chips anywhere else will start to rust... If you don't get it done professionally, just make sure it's nice and clean before you spray it. Think lawn sprinkler...

Rubberized undercoat. It works wonders! My truck looked like hell when I got it, but not a spot of rust on the underbody. Why? It was factory undercoated. However, inside the old rubber inner fenders where it wasn't coated was a different story. BTW, they salt the hell out of the roads for 4-5 months a year here.

Welding my unibody bracing in got a little tricky. I was stick welding in some darn odd positions. The trick is to keep the majority of the heat on the thicker steel that you are welding to the unibody. Actually, the real trick is to think about what you're going to do before you do it, and use a MIG welder.

The spare is in the back of the garage. The stain was still wet when I took those pics. I gotta find some of those hooky thingies like they have in the backs of the ZJs, and stick em on the bed so I can hold that sucker down.

If you plan to build this truck up, I'd use the TJ/YJ one. The clocking on XJ/MJ ones blows. My tranny is just about touching the top of the tunnel and I still don't have my tcase up high enough, IMHO.

It's 2x6 tounge and groove, apparently. Measures 1.5~ x 5~ IIRC. Yeah, it was lying in the garage. Saves me buying it. I think I was supposed to use it to build a shed over out irrigation pump. Ah well. I was never going to get around to that anyways.

Free parts are always nice.

Go check the ebrake junction block underneath (a big cable come out of the back of the cab, and splits into the two cables that go to each brake, under the bed beside the gas tank) and see if you can pull on the cable for the offending side from there. Otherwise, I don't know. I don't have an ebrake or drum brakes...

RV/Trailer/Tractor Supply lights. I'm gonna make a run to my favorite tractor supply store and pick up a fairlead for the front and a bunch of lights for the rear. Only problem is it's a 2 hour drive.

Thanks :cheers: I'm not a purple sorta guy :brows: I think it'll look better once I cut that ugly-as-sin bumper off and build a real one.

You pulled the handle and? Did it rip off? You can pull the tab that the handle attaches to if that happened. But if you pull it and it's just seized; well, that'll suck. Did you ever use it? They get rusted in place...

I 'Finished' my quasi-flatbed. It needs another coat of stain and the black needs to be touched up and some recessed hooks and yadda yadda, but otherwise it's pretty much done. Anyways, somebody wanted to know what a 'manche looked like with a flatbed. Frame is 2x3 and 2x2 .188 wall box tube. Excessive, I dare say. Image Not Found Wheelwells were covered with sheetmetal, and painted black. 2x6 tounge and groove was used for decking. I threw some grey stain on it. Looks alright, I think. Image Not Found I'm wondering if I can polish that exhaust pipe instead of painting it? It's stainless... I think. Image Not Found Image Not Found Anyways, that's all for now.

You could, but it's a complete rebuild at that point. And unless you're really into doing it yourself, you're looking at $2800+. Oh, that's if you could even find the parts to do it. And there's some incompatibilites with 4.0/AX-15/231s. Older 231s had 21 spline inputs, newer came with 23. Most AX-15s had 23 spline outputs. All AX-15s will bolt to the 4.0 but there's some things that need to be delt with. There's a good writeup on the swap somewhere. Also newer (96+?) AX-15s come with external slave cylinders, which is more desirable. To make things easy, pull the 231 and AX-15 from the same vehicle. On and there's two flavours of D30, vac disco and non. Get the non-vac disco to make life easier.

You can weld plate (or like jeepmy_tj did with angle) to the unibody then weld the sliders to them. Or you could put plate and sleeves on both sides. I wouldn't. You can also use sheetmetal screws, but umm, let's jsut not go there. What I'd do: From where the unibody widens behind the tranny x-memeber you can take 4x4 .250 wall box tube and cut the top off it to make channel that will perfectly sleeve the unibody. Put a bunch of holes in it and rosette weld it to the unibody. Weld angle to the area in front of this, with plate on the inside (make your own funny shaped box). Rosette weld in place. Stich the top. Oh yeah, weld some nuts on the insides of all this stuff to attach skid plates to later. And as far as the rails go, just build em however ya like.

Newer body style cherokees will have the glass/window track you require. Pull all related guts. Or the whole door...

The trutrac isn't a conventional LSD, it's all gear driven and purdy. Works way better than the cone/clutch things. Most of the rags say it's almost as good as a locker.