DirtyComanche

Thanks.

He's got bulge fenders or w/e. His clearance issue should be his LCAs. Thus I said lower BS is better. Unless they only have a stock sized opening, which would make them garbage. Honestly, you'd not be able to turn with 4.5". I've got 4" and my LCAs are narrower than stock (LAs) and I rub the $#!& out of them with my 35s...

I'd ask what an 8.8 actually measures, but I don't think anybody knows... I've got 1.25" spacers on both sides of mine right now. Is it 58" WMS? Or 57.5"? This is going to be a bit tight, perhaps... Oh yeah, anybody remember exactly how wide the leaf spring perches are supposed to be? My old oens are 43.5" Centre-centre. That's wrong, by a bit. I'm thinking 42"?

Probably would do you fine. They're a bit aggressive if you're DDing it. Perhaps. But what the heck, eh? Oh, go phone the auto wreckers and tire places and see if you can get something used first. It's often a way better deal, especially if you decide they're too small.

33's would be a BETTER choice in that the D30 will have a hope of living with them with stock or 297X shafts. The unibears won't blow up every week either, as you coul run a 4" BS rim without rubbing the LCAs much. And it won't look goofy. Depends what you wheel though.

You should be able to a fit a 35x12.5 without much fuss. The inner pinch seam will have to be beat over. You will need a 15x8 rim with 4" BS at MOST. 3.25 would be better. Be aware the the D30 won't like that though.

Gonna cut? 35s.

Most kits (except skyjacker) simply have you cut the stock mount off and never worry about it again. If you look at the TNT customs one, the LAs mount to the big assed skid plate/crossmember that they give you. And it bolts to the unibody. The rusty's one mounts to the tranny crossmemeber (well, a new one). The terraflex ones mount to a bracket which is bolted to the unbody after you cut off the stock mounts. Personally I'd avoid the skyjacker kit just because of that...

Do your rear shocks tie into your cage or...?

Due to a slight lack of parts avaliability, I did some strange things today. I purchased a 84? Grand wagoneer LPD44 front. 3.27 gearing (booya) hub to hub. Sadly the steering is a bit fuxord. I purchased a 8- Izusu Trooper 12 bolt. 4.56 gearing, posi, disks. Drop out third Tha plan is to narrow my existing ford HPD44 housing to fit the GW shafts and weld the necessary bracketry onto it. I have decided I will keep nearly all of the jeep brackets in the same place with the exception of the track bar mount. It will be moved to the top of the tube, depending. A set of HPD44 gears/carrier will have to be found, and the front will also be welded. I am going to run the chevy 6-bolt pattern and possibly high steer, depending how things work out. And I located a set of chevy 6 bolt 15x8s. Total cost so far: Too much. The only thing that concerns me is that the Izusu rear might be a tad narrow, and I don't want to buy spacers. It measured 59" WMS I believe. Grr.

How'd you lift it?

Rusty's makes the regular style I guess. Ugly and overpriced, IMHO. Can't remember ther other brand of bulge fenders. They looked just as bad, I think. Are you buildign a pre-runner? Steel is a lot more durable for the most part...

A GW D44 front is 61 WMS. A rear is 58 WMS. Fun huh?

Bulge fenders? I wouldn't...

You should just be able to cut the outer bracing off it. Otherwise the mounts are identical. I think. Some of the smarter XJ guys buy the comanche braces from collision repair suppliers and weld them on.

GW axles aren't full width; they're 61" WMS to WMS. Personally if I was you I'd check all my bushing and see if the problem goes away.

Every 8.8 that I've looked at has run a larger than 1310 joint. I even have a flange that is definatly too big for a 1310. Bloody Fords :nuts:

I'd personally say go with the TNT-customs kit if you have the cash and don't want to build. It seems nice. Haven't heard anything negative about it.

A spring over will give you upwards of 6". That's with stock packs. My slightly bastardized spring over gave me 8". But, you're getting it figured out.

I think I'll jsut go fullwidths. Seems easiest. Now Pete, what did you do for a track bar with your ford radius arm abomination? Curious. I'm debating if I should keep all the bracketry in the stock location or not. Just because Jeep did it doesn't mean it makes sense. I want to inboard or outboard (would definatly prefer inboard) my long arms on the frame. Obviously I could rebuild the arms and keep the brackets in the same place. Or I could more all the brackets inwards about two inches. Hmm.

Hope not. Maybe I'm gonna go with a ford 9". I can get one cheap. I dunno what they'll hold though, because I'm gonna move up to 37s or 38s eventually...

That's not too bad. I can get tractor supply fender flares if I get VI'd. Then take them off. Although, a VI would mean they'd see some of the other things. Well, I've had decent luck with the cops so far. Maybe I should push it?

Nope, that was exactly what I wanted you to do. :clapping:

I'm getting junk yard rims... 8" wide and about 3.5" BS, IIRC. Hopefully it'll look almost street legal.

Ah, it's the ranger that 29 spline.