DirtyComanche

I'm going to try using pinon flange shims (if you can call them that) to compress the D/S 1/2" more than it was before. Hopefully it won't bottom out. Oh, I got the thing out. Gonna start teardown tonight and see what's going on.

Yup.

Where about do you live? My 4.0/5spd gets pretty decent milage. My driving habits and tire size are really the main issue though. For a true DD only I'd probably get a gutless 4cyl. But they're pretty boring. The 4.0 at least lets you have some fun.

I have an SYE. The shaft pulled apart. Seems I have hell of a lot more travel in the rear than I thought... I'm gonna have to think about this.

My rear driveshaft slipped out (Odd) and kidna messed it's splines. Thus I couldn't get it back in. I turned around and 2wheeled it out. Other than my front axle went boom. It was a good night. I'll get her tomorrow.

Cut the lower third of the hinge off. There ya go. Free. It works. Oh, and they hold really good. Mine only gave once I had ripped the door forewards (backing up) so it was parallel with the fender...

Well, reading the only reference I have for welding (lincoln book) it is completely acceptable to weld the cast in 1-2" incremements without totally pre-heating it. I think it just wouldn't be a good idea if it's totally cold. Mine was done 'professionally' and I asked them and they said it's not a problem. They pre-heated it with a torch.

Ya know, you could probably get another wife on ebay.

The stocker aux fans work if you want to add a fan. To do a conversion you're going to need to run duals just because the rad is such an awkward shape. Well, or one big one that hangs down kinda low. Personally I've got two taurus fans that are supposed to go in once I find time. I'm only doing it so I have the choice of not running them in the winter, and running them while the truck isn't on (short periods). That and I need a little more clearance in that area for something else...

It's probably a 1360 series joint. That's what most exploders got. The tubes spinning is actually fairly common. It's really more of a suspension/weight related thing than torque I think. I've heard of plenty of cherokees doing it, not always with a 4.0. And it's not the worst thing in the world to weld. Although I didn't do my own. All you need to do is use high nickel rod and pre-heat with a propane torch, welding about 1-2" at a time. The casting won't distort as the tube slips in it a fair ways and keeps everythign centred. Apparently, that is.

Get more pics.

Looks pretty cool. But that front bumper has got to go.... And you might modify the stepside box to make it match a bit. I actually dig that look. $#!&, I should go by the longbox one I know of, cut the frame down, and put a stepside chev box on it. $#!&. I'm gonna be really broke now.

The tubes spin in the housing as the $#!&ty plug welds (they aren't welds actually) go pop and the tube spins. The companion flange is his fancy name for the adapter on the exle end of the driveshaft that bolts to the round flange on the pinon. I'd show ya a pic if you really care... (Oh, and those 12-pointers are a bish. I didn't know the thread pitch on them so I had to buy replacment 12-points from the stealer. Cost me about $10! And I've still got 12 points. I'll deal with it sometime.)

On the whole leaf conversion, it can be done cheap and easy. But ya get what ya pay for. BrettM did his right. Search pirate, and there's a couple that were done uber-cheap. Personally I'd just build some radius arms. Or do like Pete and steal the ford radius arms (and D44) and make them work.

The problem is that I figure there's two types of rolls that I will have: The mild flop/over a couple times. I've come close to doing this more than once. The "Oh $#!&, we're gonna be at the bottom of the mountain when this is over" sort of roll. It happens, very rarely, but some of the areas I go to you can't always say the whole hillside is firmly anchored. The first is a lot easier to deal with. The second I think it's just based on luck. But if an exo will potentially make the difference, I'll do it. This won't be an overnight project though. But, the local guys will help me on this one. It's jsut like doing a yota :nuts: so they don't think it'll be too hard. Well, the design part at least. I'm gonna have to really think about this though.

I'm gonna exo it.... It's set in stone now.

Well, that's why I was going to do this, with the idea of adding an exo similar to the front first. But it seems it might just make more sense to do it all in one go.

They go for like $600 - 800 cnd here. Total BS.

Well, maybe I'll run the truck by somebody and see. I'm actually leaning more towards a full exo now. Honestly, a roll bar won't protect my cab, it would only help in multiple roll overs. And if I crush my cab I have to find another truck... Or vert.

Pat, what wall DOM did you use? .120?

Good on you. Now the fun part. What parts have you got and have you looked into the costs of the machine work?

Oh, it'll cost a lot. How $160/hour sound?

Ah, I figured my materials choices would come under attack. The problem with tube is cost. Now I know you're all going to say "You can't put a price on safety." Well, you have to be reasonable. The tube would have to be special ordered. I don't have a bender, add that. I don't have a notcher, although I could make one. I'd also have to learn to bend tube. Which is suppossedly fairly tricky. All this would add up. Or I could take it to one of those so-called "4x4 shops" that we have. Then I'd be broke. For a long time. That's if they'd even use DOM. More likely they'd use HREW. Or black pipe... Now, you're thinking "Oh, he's just cheaping out". Well, not really. Square tube is actually stronger than round, the catch is not in all directions. With round tube you have a uniform edgeless shape, other than for the seam. This means if it is hit from an angle it is equally strong. (Other than the seam) With square it's all good from the flat sides, but the edges are the weak points. However, I don't see the edges as being likely to be hit hard for my main hoop behind the cab. The two braces that triangulate rearward are slightly at risk, but I consider it to be minimal. I'm more likely to actually flop onto the sides of the flat deck than those braces, I'd think. But then, I don't know for sure. I'm thinking more along the lines of 2x2x.250. F' that's heavy. I think I might go talk with an engineer. FWIW I've seen square roll bars and backhalf cages survive some pretty nasty rolls.

I just realized that part of the reason I wanted to run a D44 was it had selectable hubs. Man. I feel like an idiot. Well, then I can weld the front carrier either way.

That's a pretty cool flyer.