DirtyComanche

Don't worry about it. I taught a girl how to drive standard on my BA10/5, and I actually wheeled it for quite a while. It's noisy, but hasn't exploded yet. (I'm gonna go knock on some wood)

The only bent arm radius setup out there is the TNT one, I think. And it ain't gonna fit. Realistically I've jsut got too much BS because I bought the AR-767s instead of finding something else. Anyways, I'll admit that the rusty's crap was a mistake. However, I think I can farther modify it to suit my needs. 4 bends and a new X-memeber (which I was going to do anyways, as the rusty's one is retarded) and it would be golden. Although, that might get tricky with where the UCA mounts are on the LCAs. Hmm. Okay, I should just get fullwidths.

That makes sense... I think I might get some half inch spacers and longer studs for my front. 4.5" BS with a 8" rim and 12.5 wide tire just doesn't work. Well, it works in a straight line. Wait, how about I say "@#$% rusty's" because all it rubs is the control arms, which could have just as easily been bent. Oh hell how I hate that kit. Of course, I'm not a fan of those spacers.

Thanks mjeff87, I think I know how I'll do this now... Just gotta get the forking flatbed done. I'll check out the JCW garbage Pete, but ya know me; I ain't gonna buy it if I can make it...

How many 15+ year old vehicles have the stock exhaust? Mine is 2.25 I think. But I don't remember. It was pretty weird.

If nobody here can help you, post on www.jeepforum.com in the comanche section. 'Ed in North Ga' will respond, and he knows EVERYTHING about renix 4.0s, it seems. Otherwise, I can't do anything for you.

That came out clean. Always good to see somebody building their own stuff.

Yeah, pretty sure that's BrettM. Somebody should b*@$£ at him so he posts on this board.

Welcome I wish my engine ran smooth...

Nah, Cnd is .89 to 1.00 US. So that's still $400~ US.

Give me a couple days and we'll see how far I get on mine.

Well, when the water gets deep anything that keeps the engine running longer can make the difference between being flat out @#$%ed or just pulling out on the other side, or having time to back out and rethink things. Anyways, my stock placed S-pipe has held up pretty well, save a few dents, it was pretty much from the tranny back that the exhaust kept getting trashed. I'm going to make a full belly skid and that should end that. I'm still not sure what type of mount I can use that will provide some isolation/dampening but keep the stack rigid. Save slipping a rubber bushing over the pipe, and then slipping a larger dia. pipe over that and welding brackets to it. Think I could get a closeup pic of the actual mount on the semi? TIA, mjeff87

Yeah, but it's not like Pat's (pingpong) rig, which is what I'd classify as 'not stock appearing'.

I have a tendency to wind up in water up to the headlights... I'm thinking I'll run another as a snorkle. I might have to geat creative with the routing. But anyways, I need an exhaust system that is better than the one I have. Apparently the cops frown on you cutting it off at the tranny mount.

Since I'm somewhat redneck, I think I'll be getting a cherry bomb. Or maybe it's because I'm really cheap. Anyways, since I don't have a bed and all, I figured I'd run the tail pipe straight up the back of the cab. I'd paint it black of course. Now, I'm wondering if it'll be alright to bolt that pipe to the back of the cab, without any sort of dampeners or such, as long as I have one of those flex fitting things at the bottom? Or is $#!& gonna rattle? (It's a Jeep, who cares, but still I'd rather it not sound like an big angry bee like the ricers.) Now, if I need some sort of dampener/isolator, how the heck do I build one?

Take it wheeling on its last day, just to show it what could have been...

Yeah, Torx, my enemy... But what was worse was I snapped off one of those brake speed bleeders. Man, that took a long time to extract. But I frigured out how to weld stainless pretty good by the end.

Are these guys talking shorty headers, not longtubes? Then I agree with Pat. Spend your money elsewhere. I'm so tempted to try making my own longtube header with a pipe bender. (That harbor freight special one that costs $99) Like everything else, I'd save money but it'll take me 3 weeks...

I just bought $426 Cnd worth of steel. My wallet bleeds. That was more than my 35s.

Always good to see some stock appearing LWB action.

You can make them yourself with an angle grinder and a couple peices of box tubing... Although you're spring under, which makes is a tad more tricky. You'd just have to grind a bit more. Strangely enough, I can't actually think of anybody who makes them right now.

Oh right, their 12 bolt. I think there's only 3 gear ratios for it...

Because you were tryng to build on a budget :nuts: :rotf: You didnt listen to what ppl were telling you :thwak: and you are from :Canadaflag: and we all know how you all like to do things differently up there :smart: No, I read too much JeepForum :oops: and they're all yuppies :banana: and convinced me that I wouldn't need to. But hey, I think I might be able to trade my cutlass supreme for a D60.

What backspacing do those rims have? Any spacers? (Again I'm going 'why the f' didn't I just go fullwidth?')

The Izusu D44 uses different gears, methinks. But I only read the izusu stuff when I'm REALLY bored.