DirtyComanche

Mine did. Uh, the part is still avaliable from glass shops.

Electrical.... Ugh.

There's no good options. You're looking at hacking together some strange stuff. Unless you go fullwidths. Actual work is pretty much the same, you just have to build the brackets and have a matching rear. Sorta... It's one of those things where I think they say "If you have to ask..." But the HPD30 will hold 33s. I was just talking :nuts: like

Different front axle :nanner: Okay we beat that to death. If you're getting a SYE and a double cardon/slip shaft; measure compressed and expanded lengths! I ddin't, I just measured resting height and went on the assumption that it wasn't going to move that much (as in, more than a standard slip joint would take). Cost me a shaft. A TW shaft at that. :roll: Anyways, Tom Woods and High Angle Driveline make good shafts. Local places can too.

Let's look at this question differently: Does it come with crappy axles stock? - Yes Lack of creature comforts? - Yes Will it cost you a fortune? - Yes Is it unreliable? - Yes Are you still obsessed? - Yes Therefor, a MJ is a jeep.

They are a higher spring rate. The standard coils are a couple inches shorter than XJ coils. You'll get 1" or maybe 1.5" out of them. Get some stock coil isolators and stack the mto make up the difference.

There is a market beyond this site. Personally I don't buy anything. Well, other than stuff I really can't make.

Well, as long as you're happy with the choice of 4.56 or 4.77ish (rare) stock, and 5.29 aftermarket, you're good to go. I wanted 4.56 so it worked for me. There's an ARB avaliable for the axle too. But yeah, I'm not spendy. There's probably chromos out there too, or you could just get them made...

Don't knock sch40. I've seen it take some crazy abuse. Although, if you want go right ahead. Looks good.

The 12B is probably as strong as a D60. Disk brakes, drop out third, 4.56s, and it was avaliable for cheap. Well, the ford knuckles are probably chevy ones actually. They're flat top and already milled. Or maybe they are ford? Don't really know the history of them, don't really care. Ford knuckles may be weaker, but I don't think it's actually a huge deal. Oh, I'll point out I actually haven't even seen them yet, my buddy is supposed to run them over sometime soon. And why HP? Why not? I got the housing cheap (not pictured, yet). I already would have to regear an axle, so it might as well be the better one. And I'd rather my driveshaft didn't act as a LCA skid. That and I was most likely going to cut the knuckles off and change the caster anyways. Also, it's a learning experience. Maybe it won't work out, but w/e. I can always get another HPD44 housing. Oh yeah, on road manners are something I've given up on.

I created this more for my own amusement and notes. Maybe it'll be useful to somebody though. Anyways, the plan: Front: Narrow a Ford HPD44 (67") to Grand Wagoneer width (61") and run Grand Wagoneer axle shafts, ford knuckles (high steer) and GW/Chevy outers for the 6 bolt pattern. Stuff with 4.56 gears, and weld the sucker up. Bracketry will be essentially a copy of the stock D30 stuff, except everything will actually be of a decent wall size. Rear: Isuzu 12B (59"~). Conveniently has a factory PowerBrute LSD and 4.56 gears, disk brakes, etc. The only quirk that bothers me as of now is that I have no clue what the U-joint for the driveshaft actually is. It might get tricky. Spring perches go on at a 42" centre-centre. Shock mounts might be retarded. The donor waggy D44: Image Not Found Look at that bute, even had a ranchero shock! Sadly the stock steering is a bit f'd. I might pick up another stock set though just as it will be easier to run it for now. And the Isuzu 12B (and driveshaft peice): Image Not Found I'll add to this once I've actually done some real work.

Where the hell do you get NEW pricing of that?

Booya, I was right. Thanks.

I guess. But mine is only level when you put 600LBs on the bed. It is a slightly different setup though.

Make the perches short, it'll still probably have a rake.

He said XJ. In which case 89 was the last year... MJ is a different story.

Complete? Varies. I payed $250 cnd. for mine out of a wrecker.

IFS? Go steal the front out of an AMC eagle, and build an AWD street beast. I'm tempted to try it myself.

They were Motive (Randy's Brand) and they were set up right. I find it somewhat odd that they survive for you guys; as I said mine wasn't the only failoure I've known. There's a chance it's because the terrain is different? Dunno. And I kinda doubt they'd warranty them? I never bothered to call because I figured that was kinda silly. Ya know, I didn't break them on the street. And buildup costs can really depend. A D60 front goes for upwards of 1g here. That's a hard initial hit. And if you're only going to run 37s or so, you don't need a boat anchor pumpkin. I'll admit that I'll probably wind up tossing my D44 at some point, but I can sell it for near to what I'm going to put in it. If not at a profit? Oh, and I found somebody to set up my next set of gears who will do it for beer. He's competent. Make friends with a mechanic.

Hmm, I guess we got a little off course here. If he's running 33's go get a 4cyl cherokee HPD30. Get the newer shafts. Hope for the best. And if you want to really have fun get the vac disco one and weld the front gears. (The guy I know who broke his stock carrier did it on 33s. But he's one of those people :nuts: )

Just spring pad centre-centre. Everything else gets welded on in random places.

Of what? HP30s? Well, mine. And about 4 others (that I know personally). They aren't common because most people get pissed off with spending a fortune on unit bearings, or obliderate ball joints and decide it's time to upgrade. Or they never break anything because they don't know how to have fun :nanner: But I've seen stock carriers fail too. A D44 under a relativly light rig (Comanche) can hold 36/37" tires without much issue. At least that seems to be the case with the CJ/YJ guys. That's without chromos. Also, the D44 has better aftermarket upgrades. And if you dump coin into a HPD30, you're going to get what? Well, you theortically could build a pretty stout HPD30 with 30spline chromos, CTMs, a detroit, the hub conversion kit, etc. Lots of coin. But it'll hold what? 35s reliably? Inchitis hits and you blow it up. Besides, the 30spline chromos are theoretically stronger than the R&P. And I broke my R&P with stock 260X shafts. Oh, and what if you have to back up? Then the HPD30 is even weaker... Not much, but the R&P is weaker. I'll admit I'm not the best driver, going forewards is not always an option.

The locals in my area have found it to be considerably stronger than the HPD30. While the entire HP front LP rear for strength concept is true, in reality it's not much of a strength difference. And you get bigger ball joints, real hubs, better knuckles, etc. The HPD30's R&P is just too small... I'd like to run a HP front to save my poor D/S. Not really for strength.

Oh, and the D44s are similar. The GW one is a hair narrower I think, at 58" WMS to WMS (IIRC). However, it already has the 6-bolt pattern that matches the front. A lot of them got AMC20's though.

They're rare, but nobody wants them. Well, at least they seem fairly rare here. I keep track of all the FSJs. There's 4 in my area, one is in the jyard, and another I could pick up for $200. Just look around, they tend to wind up sitting in feilds.