DirtyComanche

But to answer your question, the NV3550 will bolt right up to a 4.0. I think you need to fiddle with the pilot bearing like with the AX-15 swap.

My MJ did that, but I went to the jyard where they have 20+ cherokees and rolled windows up and down until I found one that worked. And I lubed the cable before I put it back in. I think it'll outlast the rest of the truck.

Don't look at me like that! I have to write down my thoughts in order to fully access a problem. And I'd rather just hit the reply button than having to go and make a thread with a title...

The new interior doesn't match much of the old. Try it and see...

Junkyard. Cherokee 4-door front doors are the same. Find one in decent shape and roll the windows up and down to make sure it works good. Then drill out the rivets and yank it out. Cost will be $15 at most.

The bearing will just about instantly die without it. I think.

Well, the pitman arm is @#$%ed anyways.... The TRE had seized in it so bad that I cut it off with the arc torch....

Well, I picked up some SJ front leaves today. Set 'em in place to looksee at things. Looks good so far. Just gotta wait for the machine shop to be open again (buy steel). I also got a ZJ pitman arm. Is there a way to pull a pitman arm without the puller? Can I BFH it?

Just spray it with some POR-15 and it'll pass. Unless that first picture is actually of the frame. Anyways, the cab back area that is 'frame' is a hell of a lot easier to fix than the rest of it.

I think I included the e-brake bracket in those 8 bolts. Hard to remember. And the exhaust, who needs it? Cut it off at the tranny. Or, you could just undo the two bolts that hold the hanger to the frame. Or is it attached to the bed? Man, it was a long time ago that I changed that. The exhaust was the first thing to 'fall' off. So, 10 bolts, 2 or 3 straps, and about 15 wire snaps, and a bunch of grunting (if you're alone).

Staun's internal locks are probably street legal. So are hummer locks, sorta....

The screw lock system actually works... I'm not for it, because it kidna f's the tires. But it does work. Oh, you don't have to take the old lip off the rim. There's a shop here that does weld on ones without. They work. And you can still mount the tire the normal way. I dunno where Pat can find cheap beadlocks... I can't. Well, once you figure in shipping. I can get a set welded onto my wheels for $600 though. If I was to do it, I'd cut out some plate into 1/4 of each ring (to save plate), then weld them together on a flat surface. Then I'd centre the ring on the rim hillbilly style, and weld away. But then I'd be running two sets of tires though, because I know they'ed be scary as hell. Oh, and blowouts aren't that bad. It's when they happen when thigns are already bad that they kill you.

Taking the bed off isn't too hard. Especially if you use a sawzall... Actually, it's just 8 bolts, and the 2 or 3 straps for the fuel tank. You just have to support the fuel tank while you do it... And unclip the wires.

I couldn't be bothered to read your post (I'm tired). But anyways, unibody's aren't a whole hell of fun to fix. If I have to do another one, I'm bolting the bloody truck to two engine stands (one at each end) and flipping it upside down so at least I don't have to weld above my face/body.

If you're into old Jeeps, yeah. Otherwise, no.

I'd cut the hinge off while the door is on the truck. It's easy to do with a zip disk. Then take the door off and use an easy out or some BS on the torx. Well, I'd weld nuts to them, but that's me.

Hey now! Relax, I did it too. Even though my XJ is pretty much stock.

I've never actually managed to wear out a set of tires. Something breaks and/or I sell the vehicle first, or I 'upgrade'. I don't like the BFGs sidewalls though. Sharp rocks will own you.

I want to dovetail my front (shark nose?) just because I enjoy cutting things up so much.

Yeah, well, pinion angle at 10* up, caster would be at like +4 then. That'd be scary. I'll leave it relativly flat. Yes, I'm too lazy to rotate the knuckles.

Mount it to the back of the tailgate, or in front of the grille. Or, on the ROOF! Be like those Xj dorks.

Clean the IAC. Then check the CPS. They like to bugger up.

Design, go look at the eyes. Maybe you could make it work, but I think it'd be weak or wrap like hell or something. And no stock replacement packs for me. Shipping on them would be scary...

It's odd what axles will and won't survive. I know guys running stock D44 shafts with 38s (open carrier) and alloys locked. They aren't easy on them. But that's the limit. But, if you're running a lot of weight or power, 36s is about the tops... Depends on terrain too.

Doesn't matter, I'm building the perches anyways.