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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. The only reason for wanting an internal slave is that the slave can't as easily be damaged by outside factors. However, you've got to pull the tranny to change the slave... The external slaves are desireable because of this. AX-15 were either. Think the change was in 96. Maybe 94. NV3550's are external, IIRC.
  2. I saw that on COPS or one of those sort of shows. It cracked me up. Drunken hillbilly running from the cops on a lawn mower!
  3. Or, invest in a welder and some steel. I refuse to buy anything I can't make anymore. Maybe it's because I'm young, broke, and stupid. Or maybe it's because for me half the fun is building it. Someday I'll link my front end again. But I'll probably go BrettM style and link the rear first, depending how the front leafs work out. Anyways, I can get decent joints for about $50 a pop, and HSS is cheap/avaliable.
  4. Glad to see you made it over! I can't stand spending time of JF or JU.
  5. I can't stand wearing any more clothes than absolutely necessary. It's like 100* out there before I start welding. And I can tough out a few slag burns. It's just wearing sandles that's the crappy part, the slag always seems to wind up in them and then I kinda have to flail around in a strange dance to stop the burning. Almost all of the steel is .250. Some of it is thicker though. I'd use the blanket statement and say it's 'mild steel' - but I actually couldn't really tell you what it is. There's more gussets to do yet, too.
  6. Okay, little update. Firstly I welded a tab to the front crossmember as a hook holder. I might add some gussets so it could actually be (completely safely) used as a recovery point. But I might not bother. Image Not Found Knowing me, it'd be a good idea though. Then I began tacking up the rest of the front crossmember. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I got 'er all done. Then I went to pop it off the frame, and realized that I'd messed up. After some cussing I got it off, but accidently dropped it and broke the tack welds on two of the peices. So, I final welded half of it, and I'll throw it back up there tomorrow hopefully and get the rest of it final welded. On a happier note, I remembered to wear sunscreen while welding this time. Looks like I won't be losing any skin!
  7. Yeah, it's a $#!&ty LSD. They came with 'em. Might be worth rebuilding. Maybe not.
  8. Any chance the truck had heavy front end damage? Stupid fords.
  9. Does 'he' want to pick them up? Shipping on them from the states was like $300... Although, to tell you the truth, I hate them so much that I actually don't want to sell them. I'll probably recycle the steel from the arms, and throw out pretty much everything else.
  10. Yeah, that's what I meant. People like to get fancy on names though. What grade of bolt were you thinking? I've got 5/8 Grade 8. And grade 8 nuts/washers. I could go thicker, but trust me, a lot of other things will break first. The only thing harder would be a metric 12.9. Those aren't cheap! Oh yeah, I bought a DeWalt 5". It was cheap (on sale) plus my employee discount (at cost) = good buy. So far it seems like a nice unit.
  11. Ditch the bed and flatdeck it. Image Not Found Or be like Pat and just cut the frame off too.
  12. Hmm... The SYE is still on the tcase and in the truck. The entire Rusty's LA kit is lying around, had been on the truck, now it will go on the cherokee. Maybe. It's a lot of BS to make it work right, and really is a $#!& kit. I could probably build a new set of arms for less hassel than installing them right. The Truetrac is in the back of the garage waiting to go in the cherokee when I find some gears. The 4.10 R&P blew up. The 5 AR-767s got sold off. I almost wish I'd kept them. I could put them on the cherokee too! But no, I got a junkyard set of rims for half of what I sold them for. The ferd 8.8 is in the garage now, it'll go in the cherokee sometime too. Notice a pattern here?
  13. If you want to call it that. You just weld a peice of plate to the perch and run normal bolts through instead...
  14. It's a new output shaft from the 203 range box that is shorter, and is splined correctly to mate to the 205. And a big assed peice of plate. And some bearings for the 203 output shaft (I think). You could do it cheap and cut the 203 shaft down and respline it (if you know a place to get that done). But, then it's not induction hardened on the splines, so you just might tear 'em all off. Sure, you could get it induction hardened too, but unless you really know people it's cheaper to buy the kit at that point.
  15. I don't use u-bolts... So I shouldn't have to do that. If everything fits, that is.
  16. But you can do it later then... Worst that'll happen is he'll break the stock 231 output shaft (do-able, I know a couple) or wrap up his driveshaft and have to use some duct tape abbomination to stop the tcase from going dry. That or if the shaft is too short it will pull out of the slip yoke...
  17. A NP205 weighs what? 106Lbs? The 203/205 doubler is something you do only if you get the tcases for next to nothing. 203s are easy to find though. At least they are here...
  18. Woah, this is an old thread. Oh, my parents have given up trying to train me. Eventually they'll get the picture and just give me the boot. But before then, I can be an a$$hole... I've taken over both sides of the garage, and I have the 'manche in the driveway on jackstands.
  19. Mine will be the same width as the stock waggy. I guess I'll just grind a new perch on the top, and maybe weld some 1/4 or 1/2 plate to it to make sure it's level and so there's a good centring hole.
  20. Mine costs a buck to get in. But, gotta walk in (it would be way easier otherwise) and no bringing in torches, body saws, welders, ATVs (damn) or other parts. And a few other 'duh' rules.
  21. Looks nice! I need one for my flat deck to store my chains/tools/parts.
  22. Those are waggy front. However, I think they aren't stock waggy... The packs have Denver Spring stickers on them. If they don't work, I'll try something else. I need to figue out how best to SOA the waggy axle though. Searching IFSJA.
  23. Did some work, then the angle grinder went up in smoke... I got the fairlead cut out and mounted, then I threw it on there to see how it looked. I also put the header panel back on to make sure it actually fit, and to see if my 'bumper' (the peice of angle) was going to fit. It's all good, other than some bloody wiring that I'll have to relocate. Image Not Found Then I 'cleaned up' my leaf springs and shackles. Actually, all I did was remove the bolts and old hangers (they were torched off for ease). Image Not Found I've never delt with anything that was that seized before. The one bolt took about 15 minutes with the impact to get it to move! Oh, and that angle grinder is the one that burned up. Good unit, but not ment for absurd duty... I'll get a new one tomorrow (a better one, but still a makita).
  24. And all that weight is beef. Throw a NP203 doubler and NP205 behind it and it's bulletproof.
  25. Yup, good find. There's one in the 1-ton at work, when that sucker's in L, it's like being in 4Lo. And it's got a low range besides... Oh, a 454 to boot. Damn I love that truck's drivetran.
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