DirtyComanche

Actually, there'sa RHD kit for cherokees. Dunno where you can find it.

Nah, it's easy, just find all of the body mounts and undo them, then undo the ebrake bracket, then undo the screw by the gas cap that hold the filler neck in place, then be prepared to pop some wires out of their looms (Or, undo it at the tail-lights and undo it just before the fuel pump) and it should pop right off. Oh, it holds up the gas tank though. Have to support the tank, undo the j-bolts...

Didn't XJs get that colour too? Should be able to get paint then. Look for the paint code on the inside of the door (I think...) and go see a booday shop or paint place.

why do they suck so much? they weak or get in the way? Weak, get in the way, don't actually protect anything (trust me, if you hit a rock hard enough to bend your tie rod, the skid will be blown away no problemo). Oh, it's absolutely annoying to do ANY front end maintenace with it on. Even a lube job is hard.

That's a lot for a AC compressor... I mean, I could get a perfectly good one for about $25.

I'd suggest spending money ona welder before anything else. You'd be suprised how fast it will pay for itself.

Uh, the factory one blows... I cut 'em off, too much hassel to undo the bolts.

My DD has it (didn't do it, PO did, and itc's a pro job) Sucker cools like a champ. For 35 bucks, give it a shot. Oh, and try to dispose of the old oil correctly, please? It's nasty $#!&.

And they really aren't light when you're in mud up to your eyeballs! You could make the reciever for it high enough that it wouldn't hurt approach/departure (other than when it's on). I'm still not big on having things not hard mounted though. As I said, mud to your eyeballs...

They may or may not be okay. They'd probably be lazer cut, so it means it's very unlikely that they'd be screwed up. Personally I'd make them.

I'd go external. You'll probably want to have as much space avaliable for radiators and fans anyways. Unless they're going in the back.

I have the tray... clearance is a b*@$£. I don't remember the measurements. You CAN'T run the stock mechanical fan. It won't clear. And that opens up another can of worms. This is where the "I'd do it differently next time" part comes in. The tray also has to be dropped slightly so the winch will clear the lower rad support. And you need a small winch.

I don't mind copying at all. It's actually the smart way to do these things... I stole the idea for the crossmember from BrettM origonally, even though it looks nothing like his. Anyways, it's all flat stock because I wished to build a drop out tray for the winch. To use a peice of angle would have been impractical as I'd have to make a pretty major amount of cuts in it. Also, the peice of angle I really wanted (6x8x.250, IIRC) is not avaliable, and would have to be broke. So, it was just easier to use flat and weld it all together. As far as the actual mesurements go, well, I'd suggest you draw your own diagrams and figure them out! I doubt you would make it exactly like mine, nor want to. And in retrospect, this is NOT the best design. However, the main peice accross the front is 35" of 6x.250 FB. The tie-in plates on the outsides are 12" of 6x.250 FB each. The one inside tie-in is 6" of 4x.250FB. They other side is about 4.5" of 2"x.250 FB (Clearing the steering box gets things ugly, unless you're willing to move it.) I REALLY suggest you go out there with a tape measure and make a drawing/diagram. Then post it for criticism. :cheers: Oh, and don't forget the leaf hangers at the other end. I still have to go pick up the steel for those. Tomorrow hopefully.

I've got about 23... I used to have about 30. 5-35s. 4-P225/75R15 - winter 4-P225/75R15 - summer 4-something or other car tires (my cutlass) 4-other car tires (my dad's) 1-donut spare 1-31x10.5 spare Luckily now the 35s are slowly being moved out. Then hopefully I'll sell the extra car tires. And the donut spare needs to meet the trash.

CD players are an amazing mod. It cured my whiney peugeot, rough 4.0 and the rattling of all the loose parts trying to fall off.

They're SOA from the factory. Bad idea.

Hell, there'd be a chance I'd actually show up then.

I should point out it is VERY easy to have an axle setup to go in a truck. When I did my 8.8 I couldn't weld, so all I did was take the axles and the perches down to the local machine shop and said to weld 'em on at a 42" centre-centre and have the pinion angled 6* up. It wasn't the cheapest way, granted, but it was basically hassel free.

Sorry, can't help you. This is a N/T axle. It's only 61.5" WMS-WMS. But, if you want I'll make a mental note of it. I'm going to be visiting a certain W/T cherokee to borrow the passenger side knuckle at some point here.

The UBE's aren't done, that's still mockup. I was looking at my ford spring plates and realized making them out of 1/2" plate would be less elegant than would make any sense... So, they will be getting some ribbing when I pull them off, and clean off the whole axle and finish all of the welding and such. The spiring mounts were taller because I screwed up. Bascially. I wasn't enough of a man with the hole saw when I made them. They're actually only about 3/4" taller than the ones on my 8.8 - which means I can pull a overload and it should be fine. And about them having no triangulation, who the heck am I supposed to? They're long enough, and welded along the outsides, insides, and the bottom of the HSS (well, when I do totally final weld them). Making them any longer is without benefit, see the stupid thread in the tech section if you want a farther exp. Oh, and part of the reason it looked so much taller was I hadn't set the shackles in place and then raised the front. The weight is not on the springs correctly as it is. And the reason I cut the C's off the HPD44 was because they were in my way. The tubes will now be chop-sawed to waggy width. I will use the C's off the waggy axle because it has ball-joints in it, and I could not remove the C's from the ford axle without damaging them. (it was them or the tubes, and I need the tubes to be the same length as stock so I can measure them correctly for cutting) Also, I need to set pinon angle and caster anyways.

Well, as best I could make it work with my limited ability with physics (been too damn long), I can make a summation that: As long as the perches are at LEAST as long as the spring plate you will have less axle wrap then if they are shorter. This is as it does not allow the movement (stretch) of the ubolts to become a factor. If they are longer than that, they will only aid if you don't have an overload leaf, in that then the pack will wrap only as far as until it is flat on the perche. Making them bloody small makes no sense. From a wrap point and a strength point.

I'll say; you guys are :nuts:

Well, whatta ya know, if you use a pick those things come right off... Wag axle almost completely stripped. I'll take the outers off sometime soon, then cut the tubes right at the inner C's, then cut the tubes out of the inner C's. Image Not Found Going to work on the HPD44... Something's missing. Image Not Found Just a reference for me. Image Not Found Both off. As you can see, my 'small persuader' is standing ready. Image Not Found I also cut my horrid rear bumper off (truck looks WAY better) and started messing with my shock mounts.

Would you actually be able to put enough force on the brakes with the ebrake to actually give you any real traction benefit? Besides, it's not always as simple as having a tire in the air. Winter wheeling is an example...

Aparently it comes out by slipping a pick behind it and pulling it. It won't unscrew. Oh, and I had two overload leafs because I was cheap and wanted it to sit slightly taller. As far as the spring wrap goes... Well, we'll see. I might try the ford exploder mains, because the one main is bent anyways.