DirtyComanche

I read this and assumed that you were trashing welding a stock carrier because of that. I was just saying that an OX wasn't really going to make that axle any stronger... For the record, I think you're a tool.

It can be pressed off and pressed back on. But yeah, takes time. Time is money...

I'd give you a cookie. But the shipping would kill. Look for the isuzu 12B's that are factory setup for coils/4-link. These axles are even better than the earlier ones (trooper 2's) as they are already 61" WMS-WMS. The earlier ones are only 59", so you'll need spacers. These things will hold up to 37s without flinching. Factory avaliable with 4.56 gears and 4.77 and with a LSD. All of them have disk brakes. Locker avaliability hurts (ARB's, and ARB's). And Pat, the new unit bearing axles are CRAP! They work fine given that the load point on them is where it was intended (stock rims and tires) and that the load on them is as the factory intended (stock tires, not exceeding intended load capacticy, etc) Also, realise these unit bearings are HUGE in comparison with the D30 $#!&.

That's sick Love the wood.

Umm, PROBABLY will need to be cut down. Most of them are in the 64-67" range. There's a few 59-60" out there (EB's). Slightly issue with cutting them down, if you're to get new splines cut on the same shaft, you've got to go quite a bit narrower on one side and offset the pinon. That's because the shafts are necked down after the splining (stree relief) and aren't wide enough for about 5" or so.

Odd. Even I know of two right now. Just swap brake parts from your current axle. All it takes is a slight bit of pre-purchasing inspection to determine if all the seals are correct. And with the D30, the shafts are weaker than the carrier. Well, I'll admit I've seen the stock carriers fail. I've also seen them make R&P's go kablooy on stock shafts. Oh, and RC suspension components are NOT HD. Unless you're going to get new CA's and a 'proper' new track bar and blah blah blah. Oh, the stock coils with spacers will articulate just as well as the RC ones. But, you want to do it your way. Go right ahead. And my XJ with a BL (bastard lift) will do fine on the highway. Even though it has no sway bars and the TRE's got shot and the tires are out of balance...

Yeah, both of them have tie-rods that fit in holes on the knuckles. However, the holes are of different sizes.

The OX and the gears are gonna be pricey... Full spool, or weld, then use the vac disco on a cable to engage/disengage. I'd just get a 4cyl housing out of the jyard. If I pull, it's $75. If they pull, it's $150. Both is less than a set of gears. And I'd build the budget boost. Coil isolators stacked (free - $10) and bastard leaf packs (free - $40) and don't even worry about the shocks, unless you really work at making it articulate they won't max out.

Then it's probably an AX-15 given that they threw them in half way through the year and probably didn't think to add the code to the explainations.

:cheers: I have one of those shirts that says "I'll drink until you're cute".

The build sheet has a code explaination on it. If you can't read your's, well, I lost mine.

If you used a HO head, and modified the TPS to work with the renix, it would bolt right up.

It's horrible.

Parrot4x4 to the rescue!

Haven't been posting/working much; my real job has consumed part of my life and my crazy MMA training is burning up a bunch of time. That and I've been wheeling the cherokee... Anyways, I went out and tracked down some high nickel rod, but in order to get the size I wanted (1/4) I'd have to buy $320.67 worth! So, I settled for 1/8, and I'll just run it a little hot and suffer the consequences. Oh, the HPD44 is cut to size, and the wag axle is about to be completely dissected for my needs. Oh, and I've built most of a truss for the isuzu 12B. Just need to fiddle with it some more.

Actually, when I did this: Image Not Found It would spin freely going foreward, but bind like hell in reverse. Although, after a couple 4.5K clutch dumps it stopped binding so bad. It jsut clanked.

Don't forget to post pics. This should be pretty good.

Pulled the cover?

Just cut them and reflare them. A flaring tool is like $10. Chances are they're so seized there's nothing you can do about it.

Heat, and lots of it. One of mine broke though, so I had to reflare it.

As odd as this may sound, it's not really a cheap solution...

There is no desire other than rarity, and the whole diesel craze. It's not exactly a spectacular motor. If you want a better diesel, look at the VW TDI engines... Or, a forking land cruiser engine.

In later 8.8's it would be more common. All of the 96+ ones I've looked at were 3.73 or 4.10. Wait, I've only ever seen 3 96+'ers, and I own one of them...

Better fix that.