DirtyComanche

You don't need his advice, all you need is the "If in doubt, cut it out" mantra, a 6-pack or two, and some spare blades.

But Pete's won't be. I predict a hackjob of redneck porportions. (No offense ment)

Mmm... Napa should sell centring pins that have heads the same size as those holes. They sold me some.

Park on the lawn.

STD

Mine's been on 'em for half the time I've owned it. So, if they hurt it, crap.

Just so you know... What's the spring rate on those ZJ coils? 180lb/in? That means for BOTH coils to compress an inch, you have to add 360lbs to the front end of the truck! I dunno about you, but that's a heavy bumper.

That's what I was trying to tell him...

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I find it odd how you can't just get a toe-alignment. I got one for $17. That's all that matters, the rest can be figured out with an angle finder and a tape measure.

You're going to have a lot of money into this for very little gain. The rear axle is the easy part of any axle swap equation - and should not be a deciding factor. In this case, you will have to either narrow it, or run a fullwidth front. In order to narrow it you're looking at a fairly high cost, as you'll have to get the housing cut down, the bearing retainers welded back on, and the axle shaft cut down and resplined. The only place I know that does this as a package is Currie (IIRC) and it's not cheap. Now, you've got to factor in that the gearing is probably not right, so you're either going to have to buy new gears and have them set up, or find another third member with lower gears. Neither is really cheap (although, I could get a 4.10 9" third for about $100 - they are rare though; as opposed to new gears for $250 and install fee). Also, the bolt patterns still won't match, but you can get adapters to fix this. Now, that's assuming that you're going to narrow it and use the stock HPD30 front. I'll also point out that you've now got a world class rear end, and a darn crappy front end. If you intend to go with larger than 35" tires, you're kinda at a road block. That is, you are now FORCED to build a narrow-width front, or ditch the 9" you've put so much money into. And building a narrow front axle that is stronger than the D30 isn't a huge amount of fun... And if you're to leave it full width and swap in a full width front, things are also complicated. Firstly, you'll need to find a decent ford D44 or better. That can be tough in itself. Then you've got to regear it, weld on the brakets, and etc... It can go down hill in a hurry.

BAD! Walk away from this axle.

I read this and assumed that you were trashing welding a stock carrier because of that. I was just saying that an OX wasn't really going to make that axle any stronger... For the record, I think you're a tool.

It can be pressed off and pressed back on. But yeah, takes time. Time is money...

I'd give you a cookie. But the shipping would kill. Look for the isuzu 12B's that are factory setup for coils/4-link. These axles are even better than the earlier ones (trooper 2's) as they are already 61" WMS-WMS. The earlier ones are only 59", so you'll need spacers. These things will hold up to 37s without flinching. Factory avaliable with 4.56 gears and 4.77 and with a LSD. All of them have disk brakes. Locker avaliability hurts (ARB's, and ARB's). And Pat, the new unit bearing axles are CRAP! They work fine given that the load point on them is where it was intended (stock rims and tires) and that the load on them is as the factory intended (stock tires, not exceeding intended load capacticy, etc) Also, realise these unit bearings are HUGE in comparison with the D30 $#!&.

That's sick Love the wood.

Umm, PROBABLY will need to be cut down. Most of them are in the 64-67" range. There's a few 59-60" out there (EB's). Slightly issue with cutting them down, if you're to get new splines cut on the same shaft, you've got to go quite a bit narrower on one side and offset the pinon. That's because the shafts are necked down after the splining (stree relief) and aren't wide enough for about 5" or so.

Odd. Even I know of two right now. Just swap brake parts from your current axle. All it takes is a slight bit of pre-purchasing inspection to determine if all the seals are correct. And with the D30, the shafts are weaker than the carrier. Well, I'll admit I've seen the stock carriers fail. I've also seen them make R&P's go kablooy on stock shafts. Oh, and RC suspension components are NOT HD. Unless you're going to get new CA's and a 'proper' new track bar and blah blah blah. Oh, the stock coils with spacers will articulate just as well as the RC ones. But, you want to do it your way. Go right ahead. And my XJ with a BL (bastard lift) will do fine on the highway. Even though it has no sway bars and the TRE's got shot and the tires are out of balance...

Yeah, both of them have tie-rods that fit in holes on the knuckles. However, the holes are of different sizes.

The OX and the gears are gonna be pricey... Full spool, or weld, then use the vac disco on a cable to engage/disengage. I'd just get a 4cyl housing out of the jyard. If I pull, it's $75. If they pull, it's $150. Both is less than a set of gears. And I'd build the budget boost. Coil isolators stacked (free - $10) and bastard leaf packs (free - $40) and don't even worry about the shocks, unless you really work at making it articulate they won't max out.

Then it's probably an AX-15 given that they threw them in half way through the year and probably didn't think to add the code to the explainations.

:cheers: I have one of those shirts that says "I'll drink until you're cute".

The build sheet has a code explaination on it. If you can't read your's, well, I lost mine.

If you used a HO head, and modified the TPS to work with the renix, it would bolt right up.