DirtyComanche

Oh, it sits too tall, I'll need to pull the extra over-load leaf from each side. OR maybe both of them, and then check flex and bumpstop as needed. Shock mount mockup will start tomorrow, I hope. Also, I spent some time in the jyard. I actually went there to look at propane parts, but was pretty much SOL because they'd crushed a bunch... Anyways, I got a GM HEI dist from a van with a 250 in it. I didn't realize it at the time, but the cap is damaged, which is probably why the van wound up in the yard (there's no way it would fire). I will go and swap the cap or maybe even buy some new parts. I grabbed a renix intake manifold, just to see if I can easily modify it to suit my needs. I'd say it doesn't look promising. I will probably bend up some pipe and make a custom manifold. I also bought a spare E-fan. It was cheap. And lebaron hood vents... Don't ask me why! And some comanche decals out of impulse.

UBE's burned in partially: Image Not Found UBE's done for now: Image Not Found Springs going on, and getting ready to wedge it under the truck. Image Not Found Hold it right there! That's where the rear tires should be! Now I jsut need to ditch the leafs. Image Not Found When I quit for the night: Image Not Found

I'd be getting the poly ones then! But, we'll wait till it breaks. As is the nature of how I do things. Okay, made some progress, but I dunno about this D44... Image Not Found How do you get that ring off? I tried pulling on it, went out and bought a jawed puller, but can't fit it in... It wiggles, but it won't come out. :dunno: This is what has come off so far: Image Not Found (Some of the bolts are for the 12B, nevermind them) Any thoughts? I decided I better work on the 12B. Just mockup for now. Started basic prep: Image Not Found Spring perch mock-up: Image Not Found Building spring plates and UBE's (U-bolt eliminators...) Image Not Found I also decided to move the wheelbase back about 1.5" at this time. Tacking perches in. Pinion is 6* up. Decent guess. Image Not Found UBE mockup, and the perches are burned in on the sides (There's another weld to do to make them really solid.) Image Not Found

The junkyard! I was at my not so local u-pull-it and there was two MJs there. One had factory buckets and full console! And a good rear sliding window! And a good tailgate and tail lights! But yeah, I don't need those.

My head was the moving part... But rather quickly, as I was holding a wrench and shorted out the alt output wire... Still hasn't stopped bleeding. Maybe it should be stiched? Probably too late now.

You probably didn't, but oh well: Image Not Found Image Not Found

I ate a towhook... Want pics?

That's kidna what I was thinking... But, it's been like that for 2 years and not broken. :nuts:

Ah, but, it only costs me 60 cents a liter, with 87 octane sitting a $1.29/L...

Thought about my timing issue... Aren't YJ's serpentine belt? Wouldn't their harmonic balancer have timing marks? Hmm... Wonder if it would fit?

Not a lot of progress, been kinda busy between work and trying to get back into school. But the good news is that someday I will be fixing planes for a living! Or maybe that's bad news for most people.... Thought I'd ask, are motor mounts supposed to have this much play? Image Not Found Or should I have replaced them about 2 years ago? Anyways, after just about killing DD after an encounter with a water hazard, I decided a better intake/snorkel should be in order for both. However, I cut BB first as she's already a Miss Frankenstein. Image Not Found Then I'll put a hole through into the engine bay there, and run ABS pipe and some radiator hose to make the intake system. And I poked around at some other things.

Yes, the timing needs adjusting, a couple degrees advance, IIRC. But, I still gotta figure out how! Cooling issues are not issues. The engine will actually run colder on the propane. The ONLY thing that worries me about propane is it's next to impossible to start below -40. -45 and you're pretty much dead in the water. Oh, and for the number of miles I put on this thing, I'll have to keep it for about 40 years before the conversion pays for itself...

Ford f'ing trucks (F-150, 250...) coils work. 4.5" of lift, rides like you've not got any suspension, outflexes a forklift by a hair. Some of them need to be 'modified' to fit on the coil bucket though, as they have a cross to retain them at the bottom. Got angle grinder? Ford thunderbird coils work. They're weird. V8GC coils. Yup. 1.25" maybe. As far as other junkyard things go... Take a set of calipers, a tape measure, and a calculator and you can figure 'em out.

Normally, you don't use the stock 5.o injects. They are however better because of the spray pattern.

The other dilema is that the harmonic balancer has no timing marks on it... I can find 0* (TDC) without it... But, I mean that by ripping the head off. Hmm.

That front inner fender has got to go.

So, Bountyhunter, you were right, and I was too lazy to look up my old crap to confirm that. Anyways, no put bolting a wimpy XJ axle in anyways, so who cares.

Well, at 107 octane it's not exactly like you should be running a 8:1 CR. However, I know enough dual fuel sluts that I'm not bothered by it... I think I'll try it, and if it doesn't work really well I could either shave the head, or just swear at it a bit and consider a new drivetran. The cam isn't a huge deal. Propane cams have slightly longer exhaust durations; but it's not actually for power. They like to let the exhaust valves seat 'softer'. And as far as the advantages/disadvantages, well, I don't really care. Life's too boring if you never try stupid ideas. I'll probably look around for a complete harness...

It depends. I haven't tried it. So who knows. Oh, and I drew* a FBD for the different spring perches, sorta... I stopped because I realized it was irrelevent. At least, given the factors I chose to alter. As long as the perch is LONGER than the width of the axle tube plus whatever space you need for the u-bolts (essenitially, as long as the perch is as long as the top plate) there will be NO altering of the forces applied on the spring. Also factor in, I left the overload spring in for my scribbles. In practice you should have it on a MJ, or anything with a positivly arched spring. *scribbled. I'm lazy.

Run the renix system as in...? I mean, I can keep the manifold, and fill a few holes. And I'm NOT talking dual fuel.

Make it yourself... Couple feet of 3" ABS pipe and a cone filter. And that'll cost you like $10.

Currently I'm actually more worried about the ignition than anything. I don't know other vehicles well enough... The whole concept of being able to adjust the timing it foreign!

Nope. Just plug and play.

I got fed up yesterday. I don't want any of the wiring, vacuum lines, and current fuel system BS that's uder my hood. So, that'd mean we need to do a conversion. I 'think' my conversion would require: (This is for an 89 4.0 Renix engine) Junkyarding: Propane tank Mixer (260-300CFM) Regulator Assorted hoses. Ah, maybe buy them new. Probably should talk to the local impco dealer or something... CJ/YJ intake (carbed intake), or modify the renix one? (Fill various holes) CJ/YJ ignition, being dist, coil and god knows what else Make: Adapter plate for mixer. Tank mounts, line mounts, etc. No big deal. I have no idea what will happen when you remove the computer with the renix. I'll probably have no headlights or gauges and etc, but that's something to deal with as it happens! Basically, if in doubt, cut it out!

MJ is 1064mm centre/centre. The XJ works out to being about 11**mm centre/centre (you have to do math to figure it out and I'm too lazy right now. It works out to being about 1/4-3/8s wider on each side, IIRC.)