DirtyComanche

Doubt it. And do NOT make the assumption that a ZJ coil will sit one inch higher. Typically the difference is that the ZJ coil is the same length but of a higher spring rate, but not always! Besides, you don't want a forking high spring rate anyways, or you front will never flex.... Anyway, you can change the height of the leaf packs later by adding an extra main leaf (that's been cut) or swapping in flatter leaves. Coils can be spaced with extra stock isolators, or with real spacers. Basically, you try it and see what happens. Also, when going SOA the height will depend on the perches used, and the axle you have...

You don't need 1/4, but for the price, weight, time, difference, it is worthwhile. Do it right the first time... http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5878 Read that.

Okay, from the point where the unibody widens just after the tranny crossmember back, you can take 4x4x.250 HSS (square tube) and split the top off of it and it will slip perfectly over the unibody. From where the tranny crossmember is and foreward, I would use 4x6x.250 angle... Buuuuuuut, you can make it stronger by welding a peice of plate on the inside of the unibody, and welding it to the angle. And as far as how you're supposed to weld to the unibody... I can get you a guide somewhere...

All two weeks.

D30's love 35s. Image Not Found

You'll hit fender, unless you bumpstop the hell out of it. Those tires are too wide to fit inside the fenders... Afraid of a little trimming?

Depends what you're trying to do... Not much rigidy can be gained by plating a MJ unibody. However, if you wish to attach suspension components, rock rails, an exo cage, etc, you need to plate it. Also, you maybe need plating to prevent major damage from rocks. The only plating I have is from the start of the old LCA pockets back to where the unibody widens... That was the area that seemed to get the most bent from wheeling, and I needed to attach the LAs.

I could, but yeah... It's not perfect, but it's not bad either.

And you need a ton of tire to keep them out of the rocks, dirt, trees, whatever. And they're bloooooday wide. They actually don't work in the terrain around where I live because of that. Other than the mud pits (mud=boring). Although, I've seen 4cyls move rockwells with 44s+ on 'em. 6.72 gearing in the axles is nice, and then a doubler and a granny tranny...

Image Not Found Problem solved.

That's not really a good idea with the UBE's. But I'll try it... I'll have to buy different bolts again!

I need to work on my MJ more...

I learned something today. Altering your wheelbase by off-setting the centre pin will affect your pinon angle with a leaf spring with positive arch... F'.

Actually, there'sa RHD kit for cherokees. Dunno where you can find it.

Nah, it's easy, just find all of the body mounts and undo them, then undo the ebrake bracket, then undo the screw by the gas cap that hold the filler neck in place, then be prepared to pop some wires out of their looms (Or, undo it at the tail-lights and undo it just before the fuel pump) and it should pop right off. Oh, it holds up the gas tank though. Have to support the tank, undo the j-bolts...

Didn't XJs get that colour too? Should be able to get paint then. Look for the paint code on the inside of the door (I think...) and go see a booday shop or paint place.

why do they suck so much? they weak or get in the way? Weak, get in the way, don't actually protect anything (trust me, if you hit a rock hard enough to bend your tie rod, the skid will be blown away no problemo). Oh, it's absolutely annoying to do ANY front end maintenace with it on. Even a lube job is hard.

That's a lot for a AC compressor... I mean, I could get a perfectly good one for about $25.

I'd suggest spending money ona welder before anything else. You'd be suprised how fast it will pay for itself.

Uh, the factory one blows... I cut 'em off, too much hassel to undo the bolts.

My DD has it (didn't do it, PO did, and itc's a pro job) Sucker cools like a champ. For 35 bucks, give it a shot. Oh, and try to dispose of the old oil correctly, please? It's nasty $#!&.

And they really aren't light when you're in mud up to your eyeballs! You could make the reciever for it high enough that it wouldn't hurt approach/departure (other than when it's on). I'm still not big on having things not hard mounted though. As I said, mud to your eyeballs...

They may or may not be okay. They'd probably be lazer cut, so it means it's very unlikely that they'd be screwed up. Personally I'd make them.

I'd go external. You'll probably want to have as much space avaliable for radiators and fans anyways. Unless they're going in the back.

I have the tray... clearance is a b*@$£. I don't remember the measurements. You CAN'T run the stock mechanical fan. It won't clear. And that opens up another can of worms. This is where the "I'd do it differently next time" part comes in. The tray also has to be dropped slightly so the winch will clear the lower rad support. And you need a small winch.