DirtyComanche

Does your local require the tires to be covered? If not, you're in luck with them sticking out like that. But about pics, hmmm. Image Not Found Just trim until the fender is inline with the inner fender...

No pics until it's done.... And then, I'm making another thread for them. Postcount +++

Yeah, Mr 1300+. Hey, I built almost an entire bumper for my XJ today. Oww, the sunburn...

Think he's coming back?

Those tractor joints are NOT designed for use on a vehicle that sees street. I mean that as in they will wear extremely quickly with the combination of getting dirty and the high freequency vibrations caused by traveling at speed. Doesn't mean you can't use 'em. Personally, I'd look around. There's some nice rebuildable joints out there for not much money.

Let's see here. With customs, brokerage, and that we'd be using two couriers... Nah, I think you could probably buy an ARB for the price!

For the XJ Image Not Found That's the plan. Winch mount might be added later. Tow hooks will go sideways on the tie in brackets (might get interesting). It shouldn't hurt my approach any though. And that's what matters. I'll pick up the steel tomorrow hopefully.

Well, you can. You'd need a 4wd AX-15 to donate parts though, or buy new parts (scary expensive). Then basically it's a complete rebuild. Most guys are afraid of trannies, for pretty good reasons. Get a 4wd AX-15. (Oh, as a curiosity, you could run a divorce tcase and use a 2wd tranny. But it would be WAY more work than it is worth)

Actually, I'd wonder what axles he's running. Pete might be 'right'.

I'm a square guy myself... Even though I can get the DOM (relativly) cheap. Square is fine as long as you accept the limitations of it and work around them. Basically, put the flat side down. And you can't thread it. It won't be the weak link, the rod for the joint will be.

HSS (Square tube) is fine for control arms, rest assured. It won't be the weak part. But, I would say if you can get DOM in the size you need (that's the tricky part) without a minimum length fee, and a tape to thread it, that would be better. Actually finding the 3-4' of DOM you need without having to buy a 20' stick is unlikely.

I'd 'suggest' Use 2x2x.250 HSS for the main body. Weld a 1" fine thread grade 8 nut to each end. Weld 1" fine thread grade 8 rod to a joint of your choise. Thread a nut onto rod on joint, thread rod into main body, since down nut at desired length... Plenty strong for a UCA. Actually, overkill. The joints are the expensive part.

Where is it rubbing? Higher is not always better.

You don't need his advice, all you need is the "If in doubt, cut it out" mantra, a 6-pack or two, and some spare blades.

But Pete's won't be. I predict a hackjob of redneck porportions. (No offense ment)

Mmm... Napa should sell centring pins that have heads the same size as those holes. They sold me some.

Park on the lawn.

STD

Mine's been on 'em for half the time I've owned it. So, if they hurt it, crap.

Just so you know... What's the spring rate on those ZJ coils? 180lb/in? That means for BOTH coils to compress an inch, you have to add 360lbs to the front end of the truck! I dunno about you, but that's a heavy bumper.

That's what I was trying to tell him...

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I find it odd how you can't just get a toe-alignment. I got one for $17. That's all that matters, the rest can be figured out with an angle finder and a tape measure.

You're going to have a lot of money into this for very little gain. The rear axle is the easy part of any axle swap equation - and should not be a deciding factor. In this case, you will have to either narrow it, or run a fullwidth front. In order to narrow it you're looking at a fairly high cost, as you'll have to get the housing cut down, the bearing retainers welded back on, and the axle shaft cut down and resplined. The only place I know that does this as a package is Currie (IIRC) and it's not cheap. Now, you've got to factor in that the gearing is probably not right, so you're either going to have to buy new gears and have them set up, or find another third member with lower gears. Neither is really cheap (although, I could get a 4.10 9" third for about $100 - they are rare though; as opposed to new gears for $250 and install fee). Also, the bolt patterns still won't match, but you can get adapters to fix this. Now, that's assuming that you're going to narrow it and use the stock HPD30 front. I'll also point out that you've now got a world class rear end, and a darn crappy front end. If you intend to go with larger than 35" tires, you're kinda at a road block. That is, you are now FORCED to build a narrow-width front, or ditch the 9" you've put so much money into. And building a narrow front axle that is stronger than the D30 isn't a huge amount of fun... And if you're to leave it full width and swap in a full width front, things are also complicated. Firstly, you'll need to find a decent ford D44 or better. That can be tough in itself. Then you've got to regear it, weld on the brakets, and etc... It can go down hill in a hurry.

BAD! Walk away from this axle.