DirtyComanche

If I was you, I'd go to a pick'n'pull with a couple wrenches and a tape measure. Find something you like, sit in a it, measure everything that looks critical to see if it's going to fit at all, and pull it if it'll work. Summit Racing sells universal seat mouting brackets, which will probably work. Or you could just steal the brackets off your origonal bench seat and fab up whatever you'll need to make them work. I doubt that would be hard as all you'll need, most likely, is some peices of bar stock and a couple bolts/nuts. I'm just saying this because I don't think anybody has done the swap. I put buckets in mine.

My useless trivia prevails!

The only 'easy' swap is the 3.4. It's a pretty good motor though. You could throw just about anything in there, but it might get touchy. If you wanted to swap a 4.0 you'll need a donor vehicle (pretty much) as you'll need the tranny as well, and the radiator and supports, along with a bunch of fuel system stuff and all the electrical. There's a thread on that here somewhere.

It also saves you from hosing springs all the time, at least while moving forewards. Departure angle will also be somewhat better, as the shackle won't be in the way. Now, funny thing is some of the guys with old Kaisers (I think) seem to be reversing their shackles, so they're like the CJ/YJ/TJs were stock.

UPS ripped has ripped me a new one before. Most places in the states refuse to ship anything to Canada by any other means.

You're right, Lincoln locking is welding the spiders. A full spool is the correct method of welding a diff, it eliminates the spiders all together by replacing your carrier. A mini-spool goes inside the stock carrier, it's just a cheaper alternative to a full spool. Realistically, it's quite hard to actually break a welded/min-spooled diff, but if you actually do break the carrier you go to a spool.

Not everybody likes buying tires every 3 months :P

Grind off the head and vice grips. I ground mine, only to find all the clips on the inside broken anyways. Then I threw out my bed. So, there might be a moral there.

Mine hopped like a bish, especially in reverse. Until I 'bought' my free cooper tires, which would just go up in a cloud of smoke.

GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm

Go to a junkyard and pull one. It's a pain, but I saved about $200.

*Whacking head* Duh, that's why the pictures all look reallllllly framiliar. Well, anyways, there is a list. I guess I should have been more clear. It's more like a I hate their formatting. It's not really concise, nor is it really detailed. I just found it annoying. A single pic of all the components laid out makes life easier if you're skimming an ad.

Realistically, you can expect about 2" from this. But, ya never know, try it and see. Rusty's makes a AAL, I think. It'll suck.

On the topic of the whole SYE/Driveline thing. BrettM (doesn't bother to post here) has somewhere around 7" of lift, and no SYE. Well, it was like that. Yes, he drove it on the street. But, my point is, if you set your pinon angle correctly you can make it work without spending the coin on an SYE. The driveshaft angle I believe will be shallower than a stock wrangler driveshaft, with 5-6" of lift. Although, if you break tcase output shafts; then it's time to get one or a new/better tcase. I just figured I'd throw it out there, might save some coin. If it doesn't work then you get the SYE and the double cardon driveshaft. Worst that'll happen is it'll vibe like a mother and break at an inconvenient time. I, having listened to cherokee boys the whole time, got a SYE/Tom Woods before even trying.

Well, after some looking I think it's the late 80's to early 90's volvo 740 and 760. The axle is a custom peice, but uses a D30 pumpkin. Thus, the carrier can be pulled and used in the front D30. You might have to modify your axleshafts slightly (that sounds ominous) although the spline count is the same, at 27. I'm pretty sure they just meant grind a bit off the end of the splines for the 'modifying' thing. That's all I got for you, for now.

I'm not partial. They made the website (and the ebay ads) the most annoying thing in the world to read. A detailed list of what you actually get would be nice. The rear bolt on SOA looks like it would work though. And they have brackets to keep your brake porp. valve linkage, which I guess would be a plus for people who don't want to f' with that. Only $109 for the rear setup alone. Edit, Looking at the pics, the front wheels appear to be "sucked back" as is often the case when you lift with stock control arms. It might just be the angle, though.

Very interesting......got any more info on that? I'd imagine that a LSD in a D30 (disco) wouldn't see as much stress as it does in the rear. Might last pretty good, and be a cheap traction aid :?: Jeff I'll look, I might have the list of suitable donor cars somewhere. It's more trivia than useful information though, as for the price of having the gears setup you might as well get a real LSD/locker. If you can do your own gears, well, great.

There was rare factory 2.5/AW4 combos that had 4.56 gears, I think. Sadly, no D44 was avaliable. However, you can use one of them as a cheap donor for a front axle/tcase/tranny and get a decent rear and regear it.

Well, that's the current plan. I almost managed to get steel today, but I got sidetracked and wound up cussing out my friend's snowmobile. I think I'm going to have to do some reading on 60's snowmobile carbs. But I'm not worried about the truck not working now.

No progress! Okay, I've done some things. Nothing worth reporting really. A lot of thinking and reading though. I went out and bought a Lincoln AC-225 stick welder, and haven't found the time to run 220 to my garage. I think maybe I'll call a professional on that one. I'm caught between school and part time jobs right now. That and I go out of town every weekend too. I've just been having trouble finding time for the truck. Not to mention it's bloody cold! Oh, and my DD got the front end pushed in... It's on 35s though. 37s would be really asking for it! The D30 definatly wouldn't like that, I don't think. Anyways, I hope to start work on it again by the end of the week. I'm going to find some time to run out to my favorite machine shop and pick up some steel. That and a bunch more zip disks so I can cut all the remaining offending metal off my truck.

I've never heard of the factory Dana/Spicer trac-loc (or w/e the heck they call it) being put in the D30 front. However, there's certain cars that can be had in the junkyard quite easily, which came with D30 rears, and just happen to have a Dana/Spicer (factory) LSD. With a little effort it can be popped out and thrown in the front D30. These LSDs suck though. Something like a 85/15 power split, if even that. Also, they need to be rebuilt fairly often to really work at all. Although, that's better than the old one tire on each end spinning madly, while the other two just sit there.

Hi :!: I'm a resident post-lady of the night. You'll probably see my opinon popping up without any facts to back it up. :P Nice Jeep.

Trutracs have been around since the 80's. Supposedly they provide about a 60/40 split for power, while a true locker would be 50/50. But they don't have any noticeable lash or engagement. I sold myself on getting one because I felt it would be more streetable. Also, I like to think it'll help my front axle live longer, as there's less shock loading with it. Looking back, that's a really stupid concept. It'll never be streetable at the rate I'm going. :roll: I'm not a fan of lock-wrongs, but meh, they offer a lot of bang for the buck. I'm not convinced they'd be really nice in snow/ice or being used in a true DD.

What type of LSD? Anyways, with a locker as long as your driveshaft is balanced it'll be nicely streetable in 2wd. I'd recommend spending the dough and getting a Detroit. Or on a side note, perhaps a trutrac would work for you? I have one, not sure how it works, still in its box :D

I'd not use the longer shackles if you haul crap. Well, you could, but... Find a nice donor leaf pack, another MJ would be best. Just make sure it has enough arch and enough length. Take out the main leaf, cut the eyes and shackles off. Insert under your main leaf, reassemble your pack, and enjoy. It'll give you some lift (haven't a clue how much) but it'll stiffen your springs up a bit, which is a good idea regardless. It'll also help prevent hosing your springs if you back up a rock or something... But if you like shackles, buy shackles! It's your truck.