DirtyComanche

Regarding the SYE for SOA, I'd give you a strong 'perhaps'. Try without one at first. Steal the slipyoke off a YJ (it allows greater angles) and use your stock shaft. Depending how much droop you have the slipyoke might pull out of the tcase, so watch out for that. If you swap in a different rear with a slightly longer pinon, or find a driveshaft 1-2" longer that might work well. However, you'll still have the weak sauce stock rear output shaft and if you lose/break your driveshaft you'll lose all your tcase fluid. If you're cheap, get a RE hack'n'tap. Then go look up the spicer part that adapts the useless RE flange to a 1310 Ujoint and get a front driveshaft from a blazer/bronco/fullsize truck from a junkyard. If you get lucky, something will be the right length. If not, you'll have to shorten it. If you're really cheap and still have a working CAD axle and an open front diff, you can skip balancing the front dshaft. Or you can even use square ones! Oh, that's just exciting to think about. Personally, I have a AA HD SYE and a Tom Woods Dsaft. Money, well spent? Edit: Go more than 2". You can do 3.5"-4"ish cheaply.

Cherokees with ABS should have had 297X ujoints. So, assumably you could get the CAD compatible parts from them. Although, I'd probably just do the delete if I failed to find the needed parts. However, I've never seen a cherokee with ABS. Oh yeah, SOA will give you about 4.5-7" in the rear. Match your front coils/spacers accordingly. Edit: You've got a peugeot. Expect to lose a gear or five at some point down the road.

You could use your stock pump, depending on the cell. Most however, won't allow it. There's a thread on pirate to make a TJ pump fit in a cell, though. And avoid mounting an aluminum cell by the 'ears' as you'll break all the welds. Straping it in place with something with a bit of give will prevent this.

Why do you say that. I know a few ppl running them, and they have had zero isuues. I agree they are pricey, and you can build a D44 with a j-yard housing for a lil more, but why do you say that? Patrick That's why I say it. Throwing that much money in the D30 is just, ugh. I guess if you already had a lot in it, it might make sense... I think it would make more sense to at that point sell your built D30 to somebody else, and find another front. I don't know what they retail for, but I heard $1600 all said and done from a local guy here. That's Canadian + 14% tax and shipping. Might have included having to machine rotors? I don't know, I don't remember everything that has to be done for the hub conversion.

Loose connector on the blower motor, I guess?

I had to give away a 'perfectly good' 86. Ohwell, I would have just wound up molesting it more anyways.

The front driveshaft will spin, so it better be balanced/undamaged. You can test that first by just putting it in 4Hi and taking a run up the street and see if you get any vibes/clanks. The locker won't rachet or behave unprdicatble in 2wd though. If you do the cable actuated (posi-lock) vac disco replacement, you can have 3Lo with a locker, which would give you a turning advantage if you're running really tight stuff. Although, that's not exactly a knockout feature. Short answer is it'll work good. The hub conversion is a ripoff.

If I was you, I'd go to a pick'n'pull with a couple wrenches and a tape measure. Find something you like, sit in a it, measure everything that looks critical to see if it's going to fit at all, and pull it if it'll work. Summit Racing sells universal seat mouting brackets, which will probably work. Or you could just steal the brackets off your origonal bench seat and fab up whatever you'll need to make them work. I doubt that would be hard as all you'll need, most likely, is some peices of bar stock and a couple bolts/nuts. I'm just saying this because I don't think anybody has done the swap. I put buckets in mine.

My useless trivia prevails!

The only 'easy' swap is the 3.4. It's a pretty good motor though. You could throw just about anything in there, but it might get touchy. If you wanted to swap a 4.0 you'll need a donor vehicle (pretty much) as you'll need the tranny as well, and the radiator and supports, along with a bunch of fuel system stuff and all the electrical. There's a thread on that here somewhere.

It also saves you from hosing springs all the time, at least while moving forewards. Departure angle will also be somewhat better, as the shackle won't be in the way. Now, funny thing is some of the guys with old Kaisers (I think) seem to be reversing their shackles, so they're like the CJ/YJ/TJs were stock.

UPS ripped has ripped me a new one before. Most places in the states refuse to ship anything to Canada by any other means.

You're right, Lincoln locking is welding the spiders. A full spool is the correct method of welding a diff, it eliminates the spiders all together by replacing your carrier. A mini-spool goes inside the stock carrier, it's just a cheaper alternative to a full spool. Realistically, it's quite hard to actually break a welded/min-spooled diff, but if you actually do break the carrier you go to a spool.

Not everybody likes buying tires every 3 months :P

Grind off the head and vice grips. I ground mine, only to find all the clips on the inside broken anyways. Then I threw out my bed. So, there might be a moral there.

Mine hopped like a bish, especially in reverse. Until I 'bought' my free cooper tires, which would just go up in a cloud of smoke.

GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm

Go to a junkyard and pull one. It's a pain, but I saved about $200.

*Whacking head* Duh, that's why the pictures all look reallllllly framiliar. Well, anyways, there is a list. I guess I should have been more clear. It's more like a I hate their formatting. It's not really concise, nor is it really detailed. I just found it annoying. A single pic of all the components laid out makes life easier if you're skimming an ad.

Realistically, you can expect about 2" from this. But, ya never know, try it and see. Rusty's makes a AAL, I think. It'll suck.

On the topic of the whole SYE/Driveline thing. BrettM (doesn't bother to post here) has somewhere around 7" of lift, and no SYE. Well, it was like that. Yes, he drove it on the street. But, my point is, if you set your pinon angle correctly you can make it work without spending the coin on an SYE. The driveshaft angle I believe will be shallower than a stock wrangler driveshaft, with 5-6" of lift. Although, if you break tcase output shafts; then it's time to get one or a new/better tcase. I just figured I'd throw it out there, might save some coin. If it doesn't work then you get the SYE and the double cardon driveshaft. Worst that'll happen is it'll vibe like a mother and break at an inconvenient time. I, having listened to cherokee boys the whole time, got a SYE/Tom Woods before even trying.

Well, after some looking I think it's the late 80's to early 90's volvo 740 and 760. The axle is a custom peice, but uses a D30 pumpkin. Thus, the carrier can be pulled and used in the front D30. You might have to modify your axleshafts slightly (that sounds ominous) although the spline count is the same, at 27. I'm pretty sure they just meant grind a bit off the end of the splines for the 'modifying' thing. That's all I got for you, for now.

I'm not partial. They made the website (and the ebay ads) the most annoying thing in the world to read. A detailed list of what you actually get would be nice. The rear bolt on SOA looks like it would work though. And they have brackets to keep your brake porp. valve linkage, which I guess would be a plus for people who don't want to f' with that. Only $109 for the rear setup alone. Edit, Looking at the pics, the front wheels appear to be "sucked back" as is often the case when you lift with stock control arms. It might just be the angle, though.

Very interesting......got any more info on that? I'd imagine that a LSD in a D30 (disco) wouldn't see as much stress as it does in the rear. Might last pretty good, and be a cheap traction aid :?: Jeff I'll look, I might have the list of suitable donor cars somewhere. It's more trivia than useful information though, as for the price of having the gears setup you might as well get a real LSD/locker. If you can do your own gears, well, great.

There was rare factory 2.5/AW4 combos that had 4.56 gears, I think. Sadly, no D44 was avaliable. However, you can use one of them as a cheap donor for a front axle/tcase/tranny and get a decent rear and regear it.