DirtyComanche

Used. I'm poor.

How's the front look with 5.5" and those tires?

It's a general part, keep that in mind. Or so I think, I've never ordered them. I've bought one part from the dealer. That was without realizing it had a recall on it and I could get it free anyways. So, I'm NEVER going back.

I mean what do you plan to run... Unless you plan to run those. I think SOA would be too much lift for that. Don't ask me though, I've only lifted one of these things and I've ditched a lot of pesky sheetmetal.

Know what's funny... There's no such thing as a 4cyl cherokee in Canada... I've never seen one, and only one yard of all the ones I go to has ever 'processed' one. That killed my cheap regearing plan fast.

Mopar sells perches. Therefor they can get them... Or if you're having a shop weld them on get then to cut some square tube.

Or just do it right the first time. What size tires are you planning?

Don't the water jackets still line up? I've read that the guys with the 258 can throw a HO head on without much issues, other than they have to plug a few extra jackets, which mysteriously don't line up with anything on the 4.0 block anyways... Compression difference? Meaning combustion chamber difference? Know either of the sizes? Maybe I should just go find all that out myself. Or thinking, I could try that for a change.

I swear this thing tracked wider in the front than the rear when it was stock. I guess that's what you get for measuring with the good ol' eyeball. What the heck, I'll try to find some good spacers for the rear, and we'll just see what happens. I'm not huge on the rocks here for the most part, between being wet, slippery, and sharp I'm not enough of a driver for them yet. If I get into them, that'll be the end of the whole D30 thing. Everything else should be mild enough. And yeah, Patrick's right on the width for the 8.8, I just fudged the numbers on it because it was late.

No answers, eh? No suprise either. Time to ask on Pirate! Or to just try it out.

Laws here aren't really an issue. Shafts with the new 297X U-Joints are lying around here somewhere. I've not regeared the front yet, they'll go in then. And I'll 'fix' that stupid vac disco then. Hmm, maybe just throw spacers on the rear actually... The D30 is about 2"-3" wider than the D35, and the 8.8 is 2" narrower than the 35. Those are all round numbers based on guessing. :wink: And I don't care about looks, I care that it's going to rub the frame really bad. All the width I wanted was for stability and avoiding the rubbing. And no, I'm too headstrong to run 33s. I got a deal on the 35s, and to pick up new 33s would be aboooout $1153.24 if Kal tire is true to their word. Yes, I could sell the 35s and try to find used 33s. I'm confident I could sell them, but not that I could find 33s. I talked to some locals and looked at their junk. They say I'll get away with 35s and a D30, and I trust them because they do. They run the trails I plan to, so I think I'll be okay. None of them are trussed. However I forgot to ask their opinon on running spacers, so thus this whole thread. And as I've said before, if this whole mess breaks, I'll just go fullwidths. It's what I should have done in the first place.

I'm going to rub in the rear actually, as the 8.8 narrower. But I don't want to have my front narrower than the rear. And I'd like a little more width in general with this height. My bearings are going to hate me anyways, no suprise there. Hmm, I think I'm leaning towards trussing the D30, which I've wanted to do a long time anyways, and just doing it and hoping nothing breaks. If it does, I wasted my money on the spacers. 'Nother question, why are they normally aluminum anyways? Weight?

Wheel spacers... Yeah, even with AR-767s I'm not wide enough. That's my final decision as of today. So, you think I'll kill my D30 between 35x12.5s, AR-767s (4" BS) and 1.25 or 1.5" spacers? I'm not worried about the 8.8. And I already know, get the good ones...

We need more morons that are in way over their heads. (Like me) I finally gave up and bought a DD so Ican fix the 'manche in peace.

Front end shaking, as in you had steering feedback? How long since you lubed up the front end? Or was it more like rear end shaking? Couldn't help you with that.

I know that the HO head differs from the Renix and 4.2 head. Are the 4.2 and Renix ones the same? Logically, I'd think they are but I've not thought to look at the casting numbers in the junkyard. The HO head is obviously different from the Renix/4.2 in that the intake ports are higher. The higher intake port leads to better flow, which lead to throwing HO heads on 4.2s. I also read somewhere that the HO head has a smaller combustion chamber, leading to a slightly higher CR. Could anybody verify that? Everything I've read, and personal experience indicates HOs are missing a bunch of low end torque in comparison with a Renix. I assume this is because the HO has a cam with a bit more lift and a bit more duration, but I've never been able to track down the numbers for each cam. Am I correct in assuming that the cam change was to blame for this lack of low end? If they even did change the cam? The only other thing I could think of is the HO FI system just being worthless. So, anybody here an expert on the 258, Renix and HO? If you're wondering why I'm asking such questions, I'm looking to put the HO head on my Renix. Then I'll use the 99+(?) better intake manifold and the HO TB but adapt it to work with the Renix computer. Eventually I might track down a better header too. Of course, at this stage it's really just "I'm asking because I'm sick and can't wrench on the 'manche".

Image Not Found Hands down best Comanche ever. From the fading blue paint, to the peeling decals. From the rust gobs to the bald tires on filthy rims. Jeeze, it looks better than I remembered it, actually. I think I had even washed it before then.

Sounds like you toasted your bat. If it was getting weak, running it down to nothing might have been the final straw.

Carrier break is 3.73 or 3.92. You'll need a new one. Might as well buy a locker or LSD of your choice at that point.

And overkill would never be Jeep. :roll:

Pitty it didn't have a 44 in the rear, if that's even possible.

I'd forgotten that. I only learned about the Isuzu rear after I did my 8.8. No matter, there is NO isuzus near here. Although, I guess that would be a viable option for others.

Nice work. I wanted to do that swap, but talked myself out of it. If I was you, I'd ditch the AMC20 now... I don't know how good the MJ ones were, but the waggy ones I've got nothing good to say about. BrettM over at pirate went with a 'yota 8" which matches the waggy bolt pattern. Even the local junkyard owner approves of those axles, and he's hard to please.

Looking at your webshots you have your work cut out for you. Is that a long arm setup I spy? Did you make it yourself? You've got some pics of very cool MJs too! (Why don't we have a thumbsup emoticon, pfft) And flatbeds, good, good. I need to see more flatbed pictures.

Welcome! A fellow Canadian! Even if you are furthar away from me than most of the Americans. :D