DirtyComanche

I 'Finished' my quasi-flatbed. It needs another coat of stain and the black needs to be touched up and some recessed hooks and yadda yadda, but otherwise it's pretty much done. Anyways, somebody wanted to know what a 'manche looked like with a flatbed. Frame is 2x3 and 2x2 .188 wall box tube. Excessive, I dare say. Image Not Found Wheelwells were covered with sheetmetal, and painted black. 2x6 tounge and groove was used for decking. I threw some grey stain on it. Looks alright, I think. Image Not Found I'm wondering if I can polish that exhaust pipe instead of painting it? It's stainless... I think. Image Not Found Image Not Found Anyways, that's all for now.

You could, but it's a complete rebuild at that point. And unless you're really into doing it yourself, you're looking at $2800+. Oh, that's if you could even find the parts to do it. And there's some incompatibilites with 4.0/AX-15/231s. Older 231s had 21 spline inputs, newer came with 23. Most AX-15s had 23 spline outputs. All AX-15s will bolt to the 4.0 but there's some things that need to be delt with. There's a good writeup on the swap somewhere. Also newer (96+?) AX-15s come with external slave cylinders, which is more desirable. To make things easy, pull the 231 and AX-15 from the same vehicle. On and there's two flavours of D30, vac disco and non. Get the non-vac disco to make life easier.

You can weld plate (or like jeepmy_tj did with angle) to the unibody then weld the sliders to them. Or you could put plate and sleeves on both sides. I wouldn't. You can also use sheetmetal screws, but umm, let's jsut not go there. What I'd do: From where the unibody widens behind the tranny x-memeber you can take 4x4 .250 wall box tube and cut the top off it to make channel that will perfectly sleeve the unibody. Put a bunch of holes in it and rosette weld it to the unibody. Weld angle to the area in front of this, with plate on the inside (make your own funny shaped box). Rosette weld in place. Stich the top. Oh yeah, weld some nuts on the insides of all this stuff to attach skid plates to later. And as far as the rails go, just build em however ya like.

Newer body style cherokees will have the glass/window track you require. Pull all related guts. Or the whole door...

The trutrac isn't a conventional LSD, it's all gear driven and purdy. Works way better than the cone/clutch things. Most of the rags say it's almost as good as a locker.

I'd cleaned the IAC and TPS. Seems I'm too retarded to write both. Anyways, seems it pretty much fixed itself. I just didn't have time to test it. I made certain it wasn't a vacuum leak. I'm going to change the fuel filter because I pulled my filler yesterday and realized there was a lot of crap in the filler neck, so there's probably a lot of crap in the fuel too. But, bottom line is it works alright now. I'm good.

Yeah, I think you're right.

Mmm, I'm pretty sure that that's what those are. Mine has them even. No fogs though. But with electrical, as long as everything works and there's no smoke generally I say leave it be.

That's all on jeepforum, eh?

Nope. No issues. It'll just make your front D/S spin all the time. Hopefull it's not bent or anything, because you'll know with it spinning... I converted mine to a one-peice shaft. But that was because my new carrier (trutrac) wouldn't work with the two peice ones.

Well, decoding Jeep vins is actually really easy... At least to a certain extent. My FSM has a section on it. And most likely you've still just got a plain jane D30, they bolt right in so everybody who swaps to 4wd uses them. (Other than weird guys like Pete, but he's jsut weird)

Console isn't origonal, buckets probably won't be either. Look at where the brackets bolt to the adjuster rails on them, they were rivited by the factory. If they're bolted instead, it's been messed with. Normally you'd not keep the 2wd calipers, but it is possilbe that the PO picked up an axle minus brakes and used the 2wd ones. Are you all about things being origonal? I swapped my bench for buckets, put a console in, and did a lot of other things... Oh, sometimes things don't match the VIN. But you can look 'inside' the driver's door for the buildsheet. It's a bit of a pain to pull the doorskin off to get it out, but it'll probably still be there. Unless somebody played with that too.

Harsh. It'll bang right out though. Worst that'll happen is you'll need a cherokee A-piller to weld in... Trail rig, yes, trail rig.

What 5spd? Pre 89 4.0L? It might not be the clutch...

Probably... Put it in 4hi or lo and see if you can spin the front driveshaft freely. If you can't, your tcase is fine and it's the disco. In that case it sounds like the vacuum switch in the back of the tcase. I'd just perma-lock it.

Can't tell ya the length, but an XJ (Cherokee) with the same drivetran will have the front shaft you need. Easy to get.

Oh very true. No Jeep was ment for the road. (Except the liberty, but we won't talk about it)

Pretty much. If they were going to sag, they'd probably have done it by now...

Any numbers on them? Chances are they are made by the same guys who make all the lift coils. RE, Rusty's, Terra, etc all use the same supplier I'm pretty sure. Making coils in house would jsut be way too expensive, so all the lift manufacterors outsource their coils,

Go back up around some trees. They pop right off. Sometimes the bumper goes with them. And the header panel.

Give me your email and I'll send you two pages out the FSM that cover radio removal. It tells you how to take the firt bit apart, from there it's self explainitory...

Looks good. Now cut some fenders and get some larger tires..

Ditto that. I've got one in my front, and it kicks @$$. Handles fine on road in both 2wd and 4wd (no vac disco). And works like a charm off road. That or lincoln lock the front if you have a working vac disco.

Nice.

It only happens when it is warm, well, hot. So it's really annoying to figure out what is doing it. Long as it's cold, it idles fine. Once I've driven it for about a half hour, I put the clutch in and it stalls. With some slight foot manipulation I can keep it alive at stoplights. It was doing this when I was wheeling it too... So, I cleaned the TPS. Doesn't seem to have fixed it. I didn't have time to drive it long enough to see. What else would be a likely problem? The EGR valve?