DirtyComanche

There's a version of the H1 (Alpha) that comes with the 6.6L stock. They're still slow because of their weight. Anyways, the H1 scores about 300 on a RTI ramp. Not exactly the stuff legends are made of... What's a stock Jeep score? You tell me... Mostly they're over-hyped BS because they did have a pretty revolutionary suspension. That doesn't mean it WORKS.

It's not really much of a savings to just get a passenger side flat top. That's the one that will cost me the $. Machine work is NOT cheap around here. If I run the coils I could just flip the Tie Rod, and with the DP arm it'd probably be alright. Hmm.

That was pretty painful to watch... Looked like I could do it in my XJ. And my XJ has $300 in it (which is basically for the tires).

If you've got the donor rig it's pretty much swap over all of the parts that are different. You might run into issues with the gear ratio. And you will need to get the rear D/S shortened.

Thanks, but I don't need 'em. Pick'n'pull has a truck, unless it's been pirated or crushed. :cheers:

Your other account has spaces in it. (The name)

I can't use ford knuckles because the spindle bolt pattern is wrong, and thus my brakes won't fot or anything else.

Sounds like it's not shifting into 4th.

I guess I can say I had a lowered 2wd. Lowered because the coils shattered. Too bad I parted it out. With some spray paint and a LOT of work it could have been almost decent.

Autos came with 4.10s, me thinks. And the ones that came with AW4s got 4.56.

My steering just isn't going to work unless I go highsteer... This is for the Ford D44 - with waggy outers. So, what ya think? I can get a set of flat-top chevy knuckles out of the boneyard. Then I need arms. Recomendations? And I need to get the knuckles machined (might be pricey). Although, do I have to get the driver's side machined? It is already flat. Flat enough? Or should it be honed down?

Stock or auto? They're out there.

You can swap the input bearing and $#!& out of a new tcase into an old one... Change it from 21 to 23 spline. Somewhere you can buy the part. I think the pilot bearing needs to be changed too. Dunno.

Does it work? Then who cares. Weight savings.

Anything with the 2.8 will probably be 4.10. Likewise, 2.5's should be.

On Jeepforum there's a couple guys with some pretty sweet street trucks. Unfortunatly, CC seems to be more 4x4 oriented. Although, if Pete would go over to JF and convince those guys to come over here it would change.

Really? MY 89 sportuck manual with no options and the funky latch thing has an ACC postion that it turns back to. hm. do you have intermitten wipers or anything? They're an option? $#!&, I thought Jeep was better than that. It had basically 4wd and full gauges and tilt streering, intermittent wipers... Okay, so it had a few options. Maybe the tilt steering? Dunno. My Xj has tilt and it turns back.

Really? MY 89 sportuck manual with no options and the funky latch thing has an ACC postion that it turns back to.

Some people.

Or: Get a bigger hammer.

Just to clarify, they are supposed to.

4.10 - 5.13 Unless you spend all day going 70mph+, go damn low. But, it's a lot cheaper to pick up a set of 4cyl axles with 4.10s in them. Or a 4cyl front and a 8.8 rear.

Better than my cutlass. You could start it with a screwdriver. And open the doors that way. However, the most valuable thing I kept in that car was my $6 ice scraper. So, it never got stolen.

No. It WILL collect dirt and that WILL retain moisture. Not to mention salts and other things that help rust.

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