DirtyComanche

Okay, so, I didn't exactly take it easy for night #2. The good news is she was probably only twice my age, tops, and her son is probably younger than me. And I'm going to blame that on Baby Duck champagne. Very classy drink. Not that I'm really complaining about how the night went. Yeah... :doh: :rotfl2:

Yay for drinking. I think I'm going to take it easier tonight.

It's past 3am, I'm very drunk. That god for firefox spell check. Tomorrow will suck, if I make it that far. :ack: G'night.

I don't think he has been, it should show banned on his user profile if he is. Bad joke :nuts:

I still think the cummins B3.3 is a decent idea if you can find one. Or buy one new. I was willing to try that route out but never got around to it. It's lighter than the 4Bs, and smaller in all dimensions. You'd have to come up with your own accessory drive setup for it though, as you can't bolt the P/S and Vacuum pump assembly from the 4/6B to it. And the bellhousing pattern is SAE #3 or #4, so a certain amount of adapters would be needed either way. Also, you'd have to buy/make the kit to mount the turbo lower. Also, the Nissan SD33T should swap pretty good, but they're not plentiful. Some scouts had them, along with some nissan SUVs, and some larger nissan equipment had them too in either the turbo or N/A flavour. Also, the CJ-10a aircraft tugs had them, but I'm pretty certain it was the N/A version. The N/A version would not be worth driving, and I can't find any information if there is internal differences between the turbo and N/A engines (one would suspect not, but some N/A diesels lack extra oil jets to cool the pistons, and etc). The engine is basically the same size as a 4.0L.

If that's true, then somebody had some serious issues. The dealership would have been better off taking it as a trade, as it could easily have been resold even if they had to send it to one of their used lots. Some retard salesman probably had no idea what it was, same with the person who brought it in. Some of the other things on the list are really :nuts: too. People trading in a 4th gen Camaro/Trans Am, I know prices have gone down but the last time I checked you could have easily gotten $6000 for either in TERRIBLE shape. The driveline combination in them is worth a pile to everyone from rock crawlers to hot rodders as they're desirable and of relatively limited production. Same goes with the C4 vettes, hang onto those stupid things because they're going to be worth a bunch more in fairly short order...

Do you want to swap to 4wd? Now would be the time to start... I think I was trying to sell my AX-15 for $100, and didn't get any interest on it. Likewise, I've got a NP231 with a AA HD SYE that is 'sold' for only $100 (I think, I need to drop it off at some point).

How bad is it? If it was polished, and isn't pitted too bad, try a good aluminum polish on a ball or rag that goes in a drill. If it's pitted, a wire wheel is a start (should use brass if you can), or scotch-brite rolocks in a die grinder (use grey or blue) to take off the worst of things. I don't do a good job of polishing aluminum, it's just going to corrode again anyways. Unless you clear over it.

I bet if you had a Filipino wife she'd still be happy to see you. I'm just saying, a dog is great, but a mail order bride is better. :nuts:

I thought you could apply for a lost title anywhere :dunno: You can here, they look through the history and try to find the last registered owner (which almost never happens) and eventually just give up and give you a new title. Sometimes they're stupid about it and you'll get denied for reasons unknown, but that's just the nature of dealing with the good ol' government.

GVWR is 8400 for most J20s, I do believe.

Very nice.

I think they might come into style eventually, in a couple years maybe, if they can be made for a reasonable price and are marketed right. The correct marketing would probably be an emphasis on safety and fuel economy. People go nuts for either. I don't know how well they'll work for an off-road application. With a pneumatic tire you have a very important feature, which the tweel doesn't, in that the size of the contact patch is 'adjustable'. Yes, you can see them flexing the 'sidewalls' like mad in the pictures, but that doesn't mean they're going to provide flotation in sand while still allowing you to get acceptable tread life out of them on the highway.

That's kinda funny. The box fits better than I'd have thought (although, not very well).

excuse me...based on what??? toyota frames are actually rated at 1 ton payload capacity. what is terrible about a fully boxed mandrel bent frame? I remember a certain incident where a friend of mine wanted to buy a toyota. He took me with him to take a look at the truck since he figured I might know a thing or two about trucks, or at the very least spew enough of my negative attitude to keep him from doing anything too stupid. I knew the frame was trash just looking at the truck, and proved it by sticking a key out of my pocket through the side of it. The seller was slightly upset with my behaviour, but you can't make honey from $#!&, eh? Otherwise they aren't that bad. I don't know what they're rated for, and don't care. A metric tonne MJ was rated for over a ton, hmm? At least they figured out how to plate it with zinc.

This is cool, people who aren't gun nuts could appreciate it too:

Automatics are smoke and mirrors to a lot of people... There's a couple really good cracks in there, and it is amazing that he got through that in a manner that appears entirely professional.

Yup, definitely not. I don't know my SBC stuff very well. Ohwell, I'll port match it and give it some smoothing on the inside. As long as my throttle plate actually bolts up to it, and everything seals properly when I bolt in on the engine, I don't care.

Toyota frames are terrible. There isn't a production frame out there worth using. Don't kid yourself.

I picked it up used and cleaned it up a bit. Image Not Found I think it's an edelbrock performer? But I think it could be a 'fake' chinese knock-off. There's not much on it for ID other than some numbers cast on the bottom. However, I thought the real edelbrocks had their namesake cast onto the flat surface by the coolant outlet? It's old enough that it was pitted fairly heavily. Either way I don't really care, I paid an alright price. Just I'd rather be honest about it being a chinese knock-off if it is, and anyone ever asks.

X2. Since I'd assume it is actually registered. I'd black out the S/N at least. Maybe there's nothing they can do with it, but I'm a paranoid sort (I don't even go by my real name at the bar :nuts: )

Low end is Free or $50 sorta range, seen them up to $500 if they're in okay shape. Just a stock axle. Even if it's a bit beat up, it should be worth something if you hit up the yota guys, they're always breaking them.

Congratulations :cheers:

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

I doubt they're chromo. Get them and prove me wrong. Most, if not all, chromo shafts have '4340' or whatever ('4XXX') stamped into the yokes, which is plainly visible when installed. Also, the yokes are no bigger than the 297X/760X shafts, as they have to conform to that specification. Some of them ship a bit oversized, I'm talking only .050" extra, and have to be smoothed out to fit sometimes (try putting a yukon shaft in a D44, often it won't work). Also, full circlips can be done on any shaft, although it is atypical. Warn, Yukon, and a few other vendors offer stock replacement shafts. As in the same material, but perhaps slightly different physical dimensions.