DirtyComanche

Dude, that's an ultra-rare OBS :yes: (Pirate reference) Are you asking what to list it at, or what to expect to get? I'd list at about $2000 and pray. It's worth maybe $1600 tops, $1200 is more reasonable.

Good score!

They say that about a lot of things, most of them being complicated enough procedures that you'd actually benefit from a manual. The reality is they're a crappy substitute for a real manual, and they skip over a lot of things that one would be perfectly capable of doing at home if they were provided with a few pointers. Rip and tear. Take pictures. If it ends poorly, be sure to post about it. I enjoy reading about the misfortune of others.

If it's not under warranty, I struggle to see why anyone would take it to a dealer. We will repair a helicopter (for a third party) at a lower per hour charge than a dealership will work on your car. As in, our shop rate is about $10-20/hour lower than a dealership. We assume all liability pertaining to the maintenance of an aircraft when we sign our name on it. As for the dealership, what liability? That and dealer parts pricing is absurd. I 'inquired' about a radiator and a coolant expansion bottle. The radiator was quoted in the 'neighbourhood' of $460 (IIRC), as they couldn't even give me a firm quote :nuts: , and the coolant bottle was something like $137. I don't think I'm welcome in that dealership to this day. CFC wasn't about oil, or the environment, it was an economic stimulus. Unfortunately your government is unwilling to simple shoot their sick dogs, being GM and Chrysler, but would rather attempt to prop them up till the end (and beyond) in the hope of saving jobs. Your government's decision unfortunately was reflected here. So, now we have a couple of black holes to throw cash at for the hope of saving the jobs of people who are making (factoring worth of benefits) about $70/hour to be on a production line. I pray for the day that the advances in robotics make these people totally redundant.

With alloy shafts you will move the failure point. Either the ring gear or the carrier will blow next. Failing that, you will constantly be hammering out the ball joints and the unit bearings. 35s are beyond the capabilities of your front end unless you're strictly pavement. Of course, that is a matter of opinion.

:shake: Yeah, there's nothing political in that post.

How is a 260X joint stronger than a 297X? Better yet, why not a 760X joint instead? I like your consistent labeling for the options. If you don't have lots of cash, lower and find some cheap 33s for it.

Did you just buy the house and not change the locks? Personally, I don't believe in heavily armed home defense. If I were to live in an area where I specifically feared that PEOPLE are going to try to make an attempt against my life for the sake of my possessions, I would be moving shortly. But, I guess it's different here... If you want my opinion on small arms, well, maybe later.

More details...? :thumbsup:

Well, most of what I 'got' I bought for myself... Which included: -2X propane saddle tanks for a GM truck -SM465 -NP205 -About $400 worth of stuff ordered off summit racing (Dist, wires, valve covers, and I don't know what else but it added up somehow) But that's okay, they know not to bother with my truck parts problem. Beyond that, I got -Leatherman Wave 8) -Several books/magazines encompassing a broad variety of topics -Monty Python's Flying Circus on DVD -Some clothes and socks -Misc small stuff

For Christmas! I don't know yet, I still haven't gone to bed.... PS, this is the 'official thread', since I've seen so many of them for other things and want on that band wagon!

Welcome to the club... Got any pics of the GMC K4500? :nuts:

And this is where we realize that when it comes to the number of available TV channels, quantity =/= quality. So, how long have you watched it for so far :???: ;)

Potential Vs Reality A teenager comes home from school with a writing assignment. He asks his father for help. "Dad, can you tell me the difference between potential and reality?" His father looks up, thoughtfully, and then says, "I'll display it to you. Go ask your mother if she would sleep with Robert Redford for a million dollars. Then go ask your sister if she would sleep with Brad Pitt for a million dollars. Then come back and tell me what you've learned." The kid is puzzled, but he decides to see if he can figure out what his father means. He asks his mother, "Mom, if someone gave you a million dollars, would you sleep with Robert Redford?" His mother looks around slyly, and then with a little smile on her face says, "Don't tell your father, but, yes, I would." Then he goes to his sisters room and asks her, "Sis, if someone gave you a million dollars, would you sleep with Brad Pitt?" His sister looks up and says, "Omigod! Definitely!" The kid goes back to his father and says, "Dad, I think I've figured it out. Potentially, we're sitting on two million bucks, but in reality, we're living with a couple of sluts." (I tell this joke a lot...)

Chevy made it easy. Or close. Clutch is mechanical. So you need the pedal and linkage. It's the same on all of the trucks, IIRC. Bellhousings are sold with transmissions, I'd tell anybody trying to sell me a tranny without just 'exactly' what they could do with the trans (unless it happened to be cheap enough that it was understood). Chevy 6er bolt pattern is the same as a SBC, and a BBC, as I recall. Also, I seem to think the flywheel is also the same between a 6er and a SBC, but I could be wrong. Regardless, you can get a clutch easy enough. The tcase will need a different input in it, and may or may not have other issues, all of which can be worked around by simply looking for a trans and tcase that are together (they often are). Automatics were more often to have NP203s, where as a manual more often got a NP205 (as a very 'loose' rule). So, there may be potential to upgrade there anyways. Driveshafts, you're on your own. I think they put the rear of the block in the same place regardless of motor (6er, SBC, BBC), so any other truck with the same trans/tcase should yield the correct driveshafts. It's early GM, just start sticking parts together. It normally works. That said, it would be easier just to put another slush box in. Or even to rebuild that one. They aren't smoke and mirrors, or even PFM.

Resistance is resistance. As long as either is within the spec of 35-500 ohms, you're good to go. Any of the bulbs will work, yours will just be brighter.

I'm normally a long way from the coast. So it does get bloody cold. -40 is normal in a lot of the places I work, and and it will get colder than that (-45 and windddddddddddddddddddddd). But, PG isn't bad, normally it only gets down to -35ish, -40 for a couple days at most, and often it hovers around -10 to -20 for most of the time. The suckers in Vancouver have it easy for the cold, -10 is about the limit, and not much of it at that, but it rains all the time. Victoria and the southern parts of the island is best. Like I said, I'd rather it snowed than rained. If it sits about -10 or colder, you won't get wet if you have half decent clothes. If you get wet, it's nasty. Probably the worst night of my life was doing an inspection on a helicopter (all night) in the coast mountains, it was fall and it hadn't gotten cold yet. Actually, it was probably the first snow fall of the year. Of course, it rained for about 3 hours before it turned to snow, so we were soaked long before the temperature went below freezing. Then we continued to slog it out in soaking gear and heavy snow fall. The next day was great, above freezing, no rain or snow, but the inspection was due the night before :doh:

I'd rather work in the snow than the rain. Although, they both suck. At least in the snow you can lay on the ground and not get wet (you just freeze to death instead).

Exactly.

No No No No No. Go USPS (United States Postal Service) if you can. UPS will charge a ridiculous 'brokerage fee', which often is as much as the part.

I hope you're joking... I can't wait for the death of the compass Theres a little fight to bring a "scrambler" to the table, but it wasn't included in the chrysler-fiat 5 year plan they released lately. (on a side note, if you haven't read that yet, you should http://www.allpar.com/corporate/chrysle ... -plan.html) They have a 'unibody pickup' in the works as a potential for 2011, under the 'Ram' lineup. Since they're a bunch of retards anyways; I could easily see somebody deciding it would sell better with 'Jeep' on the tailgate, if such a truck even featured something that one could actually call a tailgate (I have visions of a complicated 3-piece design consisting of mostly poorly fitting plastic parts). Looking at the direction they're taking with their engines, I would not be surprised if it featured a transverse mounted abomination coupled with a gearbox that could make a peugeot seem reliable. I imagine the use of plastic would also be quite prevalent in the driveline too, since it's economical and light weight. And what latte-sipping yuppie would even consider buying something with the 'harsh' ride of a solid axle? Hell, if they build another light truck I think we could all be happy if the actual usable payload capacity equated to more than a couple 2x4s. They're still better managed than GM.

They'll take stuff across the boarder? I didn't know that. They're normally the cheapest/easiest way to ship within the country...

The concept has been dead for a long time. It never had a chance anyways. It would compete directly with the dakota and 1500 series dodge trucks. But, I could see them redesigning it to be smaller, entirely unibody, not jeep appearing, and featuring IFS/IRS, FWD standard and 4WD optional. Something we could all be proud to call a jeep.

If it can go USPS it will be the cheapest option, even if it isn't flat rate. Expect there to be a COD (charge on delivery) for taxes and additional charges when it reaches you.

That was really cool, actually. I was thinking :nuts: at the start.