DirtyComanche

How did you measure that? HO gasket, Renix intake: Image Not Found Renix gasket, HO intake: Image Not Found Note, the HO intake has already been ground/port matched about 3/16" at the bottom. There is still 3/16" or so left before it would align. Yes, the gasket was put on the head to check that it matched. I will trim the HO gasket in that area before install (I'm going to buy a better gasket anyways). Unless I have some funky unobtanium parts, I do not see how it is only 1/8". 3/8", I'd buy that. If somebody said 1/2", I'd not say they were out of line. I'm going to do it, if it leaks I will pull a HO head, but I have zero interest in doing that right now. This already turned into a massive waste of time. I am tempted to port the head a little bit at the top, but also I'm not terribly interested, I think with the amount I took out of the bottom I have a reasonable compromise.

That half of that brace he cut out was doing something useful.

In the long run, will this actually stay sealed? I'm looking at it right now, and I'm really struggling with it... It looks like the lower part of the intake flange is mostly covering the port in the head, with very very little overlap onto the actual mating surface on the head. I've screwed up and I'm honestly at the point that I might be going to get a HO head since I just don't believe this will work well.

Alot. Like a stroker or supercharging. That's what I figured, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to run into issues.

Oil filter nipple, as in changing to the HO one with standard threads?

So how much does one have to upgrade a Renix before the Volvo injectors aren't the right choice?

Unless your eyes are way better than mine, that looks like the "Attention! Warning! Vorstich!" (or whatever it says) sticker for the oil filter threads being metric. And I can't read the vacuum diagram well enough to tell what it is... But the Renix ones had the diagram there too.

I'd install a rear anti-sway also. You can set it up with disconnects for when you don't need/want it. They make a huge difference, having towed with similar trucks with and without them.

I'd have given the guy $1500 for that thing before he had time to finish saying he wanted $1500.

The FSM alludes to it being a magnetic sensor (VRS), but they don't say. However, you need 3 wires for a Hall sensor to work, so it can't be that.

I thought the Renix crank sensor was a hall effect type? Suppose I could look in the book and see if they say anything.

Kinda curious why you went with this rather than a Megasquirt II or such?

The fuseable links are the black lumpy things in the wires off the studs on the starter/ignition relay. If they burn you won't get power farther on down the line. I don't know if that relay is the same a 4.0L one, so I can't tell you which wires hook to what. You can pull the loom apart and trace the one to the starter solenoid easily enough. I would probably touch it to the battery hot side and bump the starter over just to confirm that still works. Get yourself a manual and start tracing wires? Wiring is almost impossible to troubleshoot without being there in person and having a diagram.

Not all aftermarket glass is the same thickness either.

Check your fuses? And fuseable links?

Do what Hornbrod says. Or move the swaybar forwards via poorboy methods, which is to drill new holes and either slip tabbed bolts in, or use a threaded insert, or slip in a nutplate. The factory put the swaybar too close to the coils to begin with, IMHO, it only gets worse if you move the axle around any or are playing with the pinion angle.

Both of you guys see good hot summer weather, eh? Do you have any other mods that might be relevant, such as hood vents? I've been out of the Jeep stuff for a while, so I don't remember lots of things, but was there major documentation of early HO engines having heat soak issues? I'm still messing with the exhaust, so the intake isn't back on yet anyways.

IMHO it's a supporting mod. You do supporting mods so your other mods work correctly or better. This is a low compression 'truck' engine, the factory ignition system is beyond adequate for that. So, does anyone make one anyways? Not much point getting excited if there isn't one. Although I'm sure you could adapt something else to work.

Spoke too soon, they sent me a FedEx Ground label. There isn't such a thing here. I'll call them back tomorrow, I've run out of care right now.

I recently purchased a cam position/sync sensor off them, they had it listed as fitting the 4.oh when it actually is for the 2.5. Since their automated return process doesn't work well for this, I simply called them and explained what was up. 2 minutes on the phone, the guy looked up the part and went "Yup, that ain't right. I'll email you a prepaid return shipping label." 1 minute after hanging up the phone there was return instructions and a label in my email. I'm guessing they set their automated return thinger up that way to prevent abuse.

I debated wrapping the header. My tick with the heat shield, other than being ugly, is it's effectively an intake manifold heater. Not that I should care too much about performance at this point, but I'd like to wake the motor up a bit because I think I'm on the bad side of the power/weight ratio for snow. It being ugly isn't a big deal, everything under the hood on this thing is ugly. When I go it there was probably more oil on the outside of the engine than in it. A piece of clean stainless would look a lot better though.

Well, that's a reassuring thing to find.

I'll put it back on then. Too bad it's so ugly.

Is it kosher to remove and discard the intake manifold heat shield on the Renix 4.0L? I assume it is there to help prevent overheating the injectors or fuel rail, however the HO does not have one and has no such issues. I'm just plugging away at a header swap right now, and debated removing the heat shield as it might make it easier to put the intake back on. If it serves no practical purpose I would rather do away with it permanently.

Nifty, well I won't worry about getting a spare. Tempted to get a whole disty though, but I really don't need one (even as a spare).