DirtyComanche

It makes sense if you want beefier TRE's. Yes, but at that point you probably want to go to a different drag link and probably a WJ knuckle. Suddenly its not so simple.

Also, you can actually just ream the knuckle from the top down with a morse taper reamer, but you will have to go up to a '1-ton' TRE and make the entire tie rod from scratch, plus ream the drag link or find the correct metric tap. More work, doesn't really make sense, but you can actually build the entire thing with zero welded components if that's a problem.

How do you go about flipping the TRE? Pictures? Drill the knuckle out and install one of these: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=143_209&products_id=1961 They're available elsewhere (Ruffstuff), but that's one of the better ones as it's a full circle with a nice lip on it so it's easy to weld in. Note, these aren't legal in all jurisdictions as they have to be welded in. Do it cleanly and nobody will know it's there. Up to you, but they will raise the tie rod by 3" or so, and it makes a big difference.

Giving them directions on where to look for next time doesn't count as giving them a hard time. :dunno: Or linking good previous threads.

That's what it's like here too. :yes: You don't spend much time on Facebook groups. I blame the easy user interface for allowing people with single digit IQs to be able to curse the world by sharing their stupidity. Seriously. It's ridiculous what gets posted and actually replied to on there.

If you made a new mount using some sleeved bushings you could get the crossmember a little higher. Not sure if you care though.

There are a lot of people who don't use or join forums but are comfortable with fb groups/pages. If a few of you set up and Admin the page there, you would see an increase in member traffic while also allowing you to help a broader range of members. Facebook has killed forums. People are more comfortable with it, find it easier, and they're already logged into it anyways (gotta like and share those cat pictures, they ain't gonna do it themselves). Which sucks because Facebooks formatting does not lead well to cataloging technical information, IMHO.

update, licensed M2 Aircraft Maintenance Engineer, working on obtaining an M1 license now to grandfather in structural repair and avionics licenses as well I did my M1 last year because I needed to renew anyways. Thus far I haven't used it for anything but at least it's on there before they change the rules again. Well worth it for the minimal cost and the bit of time I had to invest.

$100-200 is pretty normal for a price.

Offer $500. Start over with all troubleshooting, right at the basics (air, fuel, spark). I don't think his mechanic was any good. Try to get the old PCM (ECM?) with it, because there was probably nothing wrong with it. Go from there.

IMHO it's worthwhile to flip the TRE on the driver's side at that height. Otherwise, yeah, V8 ZJ stuff should be good enough for mild usages.

Anytime you have a rubber BONDED bushing, you have to torque the bolts with the suspension at 'natural' weight/height. For what we care that means set the truck back on the tires, then tighten everything up. Yes, you can unevenly load the crap out of things by torquing them when they're at a drooped/flexed state. I don't think that is your issue at this point. But for the sake of it, I would loosen everything up as it is sitting there, jump up and down on the bumper a bunch, and just see if it settles out any. Torque it back up in that state. IMHO, my experience with the unibody constructed Jeeps is that they were very much bang on in the critical dimensions. They had very extensive jigs for building these vehicles, as the manufacturing process was nothing like a conventional body-on-frame vehicle. I would highly doubt that the leaf/shackles hangers, which are listed as a critical dimension, were installed more than 1/8" out of true by the factory. Honestly, short of your springs being screwed, which should have been obvious before this, I would start putting an angle finder on that 8.8 axle and see if there's a story that needs to be told. If one end is bent up, and the other down, as can happen easily in a rollover, it might well account for a large amount of the 'out of true' that you're seeing on the tires vs the uniframe.

They screw things up all the time, and not always in the bad way. As they say it's outside of their warehouses, it's a good sign. They often buy up old stock and liquidate it. I paid something like $18 for a later XJ dual diaphragm brake booster. It showed up. :rotf:

Normally if your cat is plugging up you will experience low power with it. If it is gradual you may not notice it though. I think you should change your waterpump. The stock fan, which cools adequately when the rest of the system works correctly, does not make a lot of noise.

Oh jeeze. Just because we're in the stone age doesn't mean you have to come in here and flaunt the magic of your fire.

That P/N is half of the entire vacuum harness setup. The P/N I posted (one digit higher) is the other half. They're about $20 each online. I don't have the P/N for the line from the rear of the valve cover that you broke, but I believe it is available from Dorman also.

Funny thing is I'm having a hard time finding a Renix anything without A/C to steal the delete idler off of for my ugly XJ. Seems like everything that is Renix and base model enough to not have A/C has long been crushed out, save for the MJ in my driveway (and I can't steal that one).

Ehh, sure the perches are centered? That's way out. It's hard for a leaf spring to get out of whack like that. If the shackles are bent it will be very obvious, and even then unless they're folded right over sideways it's not going to do that. Are the center pins of the springs actually in the pin hole on the perch?

And 46004 is the other side of the harness, since it's probably buggered too.

I agree in texas it is a requirement for a/c. So since I bought a mj from canada with no a/c, I have two choices....... move to Canada and leave the truck how it is, or install A/C into it. I'm leaning towards the moving to Canada option. Yeah, it probably is easier to just drive the truck back up here with all your worldly possessions in the back. :rotf:

That's a lot better than it could have been.

Mine doesn't have AC. It is a Canadian truck though. Also came with a block warmer. All the ones I've had 'up here' were without A/C. But I've seen a couple with it. Definitely much rarer in Canada.

You're looking to do a complete HO swap then? Somebody will probably want all the Renix sensors, controls, wiring, and ECM. 88 isn't a desirable year as far as the harness and ECM goes, but it's worth throwing in a box and putting on the shelf.

Or they came loose... Hey, as they say, $#!& happens. Hopefully he's put the new new CPS on and it's running fine. :cheers:

Got any pictures? :waving: