DirtyComanche

Got the tcase split open and the SYE installed: Image Not Found I really need to straighten out that rear bumper... Rear axle back in: Image Not Found Gotta do brake lines, vent line, probably a few other small things... And figure out what ebrake cables I'm going to order and hope will work. Unfortunately I got all rammy when I removed the D35 and made only a small effort to save the stock ebrake cables before I resorted to cutting them. They might have been workable... Not really any way to know now. Another shot of the installed caliper/brackets/spacer if anyone else is silly enough to duplicate this swap: Image Not Found

Link here has some discussion of beds and stuff, and I made some comments: http://comancheclub.com/topic/12297-damaged-box-need-advice/?hl=flatdeck&do=findComment&comment=121120 And pictures from when I finished it? No idea if there's other pictures: http://comancheclub.com/topic/954-got-flatbed/?hl=flatbed Long time ago... Miss that truck. I just realized I still have the plates hanging on the wall though. . :MJ 1: .

It was 12? years ago... Not sure how easy it is to even find. :rotf: I'll look for a link for you... Edit, looks like before I was a member here? Or posted much here?

A leaking water pump is a totally reasonable cause for this. As you said, keep an eye on it.

My first? build thread shows how I made the one in my avatar. Disclaimer, I was pretty hack then, it was a long time ago... Honestly, it's not hard to build, I think I looked at some guys who made one for a Cheby truck and just went for it... The mount points on the MJ are all level and parallel, IIRC, so it's even easier than most vehicles. Decide what features you want (fixed or removable sides, integrated roll bar, headache rack, tie-down points, stake pockets, etc) and what material you want to use (aluminum, steel, wood, mixed, etc), bust out the tapemeasure, pen, and paper, and draw something up and ask opinions. If you plan to wheel it I would shy away from a true flatdeck and build wheel wells into it, like the one I made. Alternatively, if you want it all flat, I'd build wheelwells and put a pull out drawer down the center or something of that nature. Otherwise it's a bit of a wasteful design as the deck height has to be quite high to allow for adequate wheel travel.

Most likely. Finding a Comanche rear axle can be a bit of a challenge if you're sticking to conventional means. "Close enough" or "We'll swap the front later" or just pure ignorance is likely the rest of it.

Yeah, Portage, I'll never forget that place. It's where my dad threatened to leave me while on a road trip in '98. :rotf:

The real party to blame here is the mainstream media. They live by selling smut, derision, and hate. Which is what their 'contribution' to society has been for a long while now. The plain factual truth does not sell, but racial tension, fearmongering, and manufactured drama sure does.

Bodywork looks good from here. You guys got a ton done. :thumbsup:

Please don't waste money on the Teralow 4:1 kit for the NP231. They screwed up pretty bad when they designed it and it does not live a long life if you actually use it... A Rubicon tcase can be found for about the same (or less) money and makes more sense if you really want a 4:1 setup. A Blackbox/Ecobox is another good option since we don't have issues with the rear driveshaft getting too short. But if you have the money, an Atlas is never the wrong choice.

Nana nana nana nana nana nana Batbracket! Image Not Found Cut out: Image Not Found Welded on: Image Not Found And I did a spray n' pray paintjob on the axle tubes. I'll get a picture of the calipers actually mounted at some point, maybe... But either way, it looks like it works.

I won't comment on dual fans, other than to say I ran dual Taurus aux fans, it works if you want it to. I will say I think you're chasing the wrong issue. The cooling system is not behaving how it should, and I would suggest that you verify actual operating temperature by means other than the terribly inaccurate factory gauge. Gut instinct is you have an issue with your tstat, water pump, or your overflow bottle is the incorrect one, cracked, or does not have the correct or a broken drawstraw in it.

Running modern (LSx) GM truck engines can be had with the harness and computer for $1000~ if you look around, which will at least get you a modern engine with aluminum heads. Not much more to include the trans and tcase. Dollar for HP the swap tends to make a lot of sense. Expect to spend time (and money) making the cooling system happy. While a carb'd SBC is cheap swap compared to more exotic engines, the numbers just don't add up to me. You're better off buying a $500 Renix era 4L XJ and pulling everything out of it, as basically it's a bolt in swap with extremely minimal screwing around fabbing parts or modding wiring (fuel pump/sender is still an issue, but can be solved easily enough, and the rear driveshaft will need work). Power output from the 4L is comparable to an early carb'd 350, assuming the 350 is a nothing special stock everything. Even to swap in a carb'd 350 will wind up costing a fair whack of money, by the time you get the cooling system solved, motor mounts, trans mount/crossmember, adapters for the trans or tcase, new driveshafts, wiring, changes to the fuel system, engine accessories/hoses. Unless you just go king bojang on it and use whatever is lying around the farm. Also, if you go with a non-OD tranny (SM420), expect a hit in fuel economy, although fuel economy is a laughable concept with a carb'd 350 anyways.

Honestly, at that point the whole driveline is rather suspect. If the rear is a D35, I'd pull the cover on the D30 front and go looking for a new (better) rear to match the front... Might want to check all your ujoints and the tcase chain while you're at it.

Wow, that truck got mangled. What was it, a half ton Chevy?

So I've been messing around with random little things, and still pondering the rear brakes... It was too late for making massive amounts of noise tonight, so I figured I'd pull the tcase to do the SYE. Good thing I decided to pull it, there was only 5 nuts holding it on, and of that two were loose... This also made it so I could get access to the shift linkage to tear it off and throw it in the garbage. I'm not sure what the parts were from, but I'm guessing it's a Peugeot setup that was installed on an AX-15, so it wasn't even close. Tcase: Image Not Found I don't know why everything is so oily and dirty... The truck was basically not driven since this stuff was installed. Does nobody clean things before bolting them on?

So what's the point of that Knuck? It accomplishes nothing except maybe a silent protest that no one hears except yourself. But that's cool. :cheers: I don't recall the number, he'll probably know, but if the part gets X percent of the popular vote they automatically get to participate in all? of the debates the next election. Basically, it's another big step to actually being heard, and being considered a legitimate party. Or something like that, I'm Canadian, I get confused with how your system works at times. :dunno:

I was definitely disappointed by the 3rd/4th party showing. Both the mainstream parties definitely shouted "A vote for 3rd part is a vote for (Trump/Hillary)" and it seems it sunk in a bit. I personally feel it would do the US better if you wound up with 4 legitimate parties that represented something more like the 4 corners of the political spectrum.

Normally the winters cause people to leave on their own. It's like the gulags in the USSR, security was low because you would freeze or starve to death if you tried to escape.. Same concept if you try to sneak into Canada. :rotf:

No thanks.

I called it when his nomination was sealed and stuck with that belief ever since. Mixed feelings on everything. I think Southpark's take on the candidates and election process is fairly accurate. Don't watch this if you're offended by offensive adult cartoons:

You could just build a 'ramp' between the wells and drive the front of the quad over them. But otherwise, no, I don't see a reason why you couldn't do it. You might want to make sure you actually have the clearance when flexed before you commit to moving the metal that much.

Never tried it, huh?

Do you like driving a SM420? I hated driving a SM465 truck and went with a NV4500 in my Cheby. I'm not sure if you can easily bolt a NP231 to a SM420 either? I guess adapters are probably available. Pretty certain AA and Novak both make motor mounts. What year is your truck again? Renix ones don't have a PCM. I don't even know if the OBD-1 HO trucks really have one either. I'm assuming you meant a carb to EFI conversion. What system? If you get a standalone TBI setup (lots out there, Edlebrock comes to mind) you don't need much to run it, just swap in some included sensors and their distributor.

Mismatched gear ratio between the front and rear axle... Or it could be other things, but I'd start with that.