DirtyComanche

Dash back together, for anyone that cares. I think the Viair gauge matches the instrument cluster I have nicely. The bulb in it is a little brighter than the rest of the dash though, but I think it will be okay... And no, the gauge isn't off center, it's just the effect from the flash.

Who has published numbers saying that a LP D44 is weaker than a D30?

I got the Viair mounted and plumbed, I could not fit the tank and will deal with that later (put it under the bed maybe, I haven't decided). Plus I did the Putco relay harness for the headlights, which for the record I would not recommend purchasing although it does do the job (the quality of it is a little suspect, very cheap components). I added fuses to the Putco harness because it doesn't actually come with them, which is insane. I used one of these shop air distribution blocks from Princess Auto to build a manifold for the air junk. I use them a lot it seems. I have one end port left to plumb the tank in later, if I so choose. As to the Viair itself, I'm not too impressed with it as a kit. The kit I bought is the 1/4 duty kit, so no it wasn't a lot of money, I will give it that. The compressor itself seems pretty decent, I am impressed with it. But the wiring and accessories they give you is a little bit meh. They don't give you a relay socket, rather they just want you to put individual push on spade connectors on each of the pins, umm, no thanks, so I bought a relay holder and pins to do it properly. Same with the air pressure switch, they do not provide a plug for it, although it isn't as critical in that it's just a switch so you can't really mix the connectors up. For the pressure switch I used a GM push on A/C pressure switch plug (3 pin, it only uses two though, like many of the A/C systems), which I happened to have leftover from when I cut down the wiring harness on my XJ. Again, I felt they should have provided that rather than the stupid push on spades. The other thing that I felt was quite terrible was the actual nylon air line they provided. It is probably just truck airbrake line, but it is not like any airbrake line I have dealt with in that it is terribly inflexible, I put it in front of the furnace to warm it up before routing it, and I needed to gently warm it with the heatgun in order to get the ends onto the fittings. That said, it's in there, it's working, routing the line behind the dash to the gauge was terrible and I hope I never have to take it apart.

I doubt that any of the diesels that can pass current CARB/EPA requirements don't have programming that works to that effect. And I've said that since the VW thing hit the news.

Image Not Found Yup. Works fine.

I grabbed some ACDelco bushings because they're the ones I can get for cheap. Also they use a relatively round sleeve, so it can be drilled reasonably. Some of them use ridged/knurled/definitely not a round hole sleeve and apparently short of going at them with a carbide burr in a die grinder you won't get far. Here's the bushing and a bolt size comparison: Image Not Found Bottom is a 10mm, the stock MJ/XJ size. Above it is a 12mm, the JK size. Above that is 1/2". Just going to the JK sized bolt would be a massive improvement, and I debated doing just that, but the other end of the arms will use a 1/2" bolt so I figured I'd make it the same. Note, those are just bolts that were lying around but the right diameter, not hardware out of a UCA or hardware I would likely use for that. Drilled out the sleeve: Image Not Found I just used a tapered spiral reamer in a hand drill with some cutting oil and held the bushing by hand. The sleeve is hard. I'm not sure what the best way to do that would be without a reamer, I didn't want to try clamping the bushing in a vice as it might damage it, the idea of using a carbide burr doesn't sound to me like you would get a very round hole. Anyways, that's it for now, I still haven't ordered the few odds I don't have and need to build the UCAs, so not much is going to happen on this until then.

I believe that works fine too and allows you to use the 2 piece axle setup that it came with. However you most likely have 260X u-joint shafts and those u-joints do not last long with larger tires. I would plan on some sort of upgrade (newer style shafts from the wrecker, if nothing else) if you wish to run a 33/34" tire.

If you want to get away from the D30 then you're likely to be in it for some $$$. IMHO it's a decision to make before anything else. Sticking with 33s and the D30/D44 you have now is going to be a lot cheaper than any sort of a swap that actually will result in an upgraded front axle. If you don't like the CAD (vacuum actuated front axle) you can swap that axle shaft for a one piece, shim the shift fork into the engaged position, or buy or build a cable actuator for it.

He will need a Renix flywheel too, or the CPS output will be unusable. Based on his initial post, he has both a Renix flywheel (since his MJ is an '87 and equipped with the BA10) and an HO flywheel (from his '91 donor). Which ever engine management system he decided to go with, he's covered. Also, to note... the Renix flywheel is the same between the BA10 and the AX15. Yes, but you kinda made it sound like he could just plunk the one drivetrain into the other one, adapt the TPS, swap the other sensors, and go... He has to make sure he swaps (or I suppose 'retains') the flywheel if he does that, which means splitting the tranny off both engines. I know a lot of guys that have been burned by not realizing they're different, and only do they find it out when it won't start after everything is buttoned up.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it too much as lots of rigs out there are running around like that. It is unfortunate in that if the line gets snagged it may break the banjo bolt loose, but for that to happen you would probably be at the point the line was going to tear anyways... Make sure you torqued the banjo bolts correctly and don't look back. You'll know if your brakes fail, trust me on that one.

2.5L, 4spd, 2wd... I'd try to talk him down. Even if that's really what you want, they just aren't worth as much. But it would be an excellent chassis to build, as long as it is as clean as it looks.

He will need a Renix flywheel too, or the CPS output will be unusable.

A Commando is something else too... There was a pick'em'up version of it too. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeepster_Commando

Good excuse to buy some good crimpers and make your own, IMHO.

Pull the door apart and see if the build sheet is still in there... People are gonna want to see it.

Am I seeing rust on the rockers, or is that just the reflection? Looks like a solid truck either way.

This is like deja vu for about the last 5 years.

Also that 4.3 TB would probably adapt easier to the HO intake. I'd probably go to the HO intake, fuel rail, regulator, and head myself. The last design of intake (equal runners, 99+ I think) is supposed to make more power, but I did see a dyno chart where they actually lost power with that intake...

It can run without it. Not properly though. This: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/throttle-body-swap-renix-70mm-6236/ It could be done a bit cleaner regarding the actual adapter plate, but all in all he did a pretty decent job of it.

I think most police departments are running automatic plate scanners now. They do up here at least... And yes, they will stop and ask you why your vehicle isn't the colour the registration says it is, if they don't have anything better to do. I thoroughly enjoy the colour on my plowtruck's registration. It's just 'Multi' :rotf: I never knew that was an option until I took it to get the insurance renewed and parked it in plain view of the insurance agent's desk and she suggested we change it to that since it definitely was more correct than 'Orange' (only the fenders were still orange).

With the original Bosch relays (I'm talking early 80 to 90s) they definitely lived longer when mounted vertical. The current ones are completely sealed and do not care at all. Cheap relays probably still suffer this issue, and I have seen more than a few people report that with the Chicom relays that come with the Putco harness. As an aside, I bought the Putco harness and installed it a couple days ago. I would not buy it again. People had warned me that they used cheap components, but I could get it off Amazon (Prime, makes it easy for me) so I bought it anyways. All said and done I would have rather spent the time to make my own harness using decent components. The Putco stuff is definitely very cheap/cheesy.

And the last one is definitely mine, Paypal accepted. :banana:

Wow, it looks way better.

Use your heater lines instead. If it's cold out your tstat will stay closed, and there will be little to no heat in the rad. Also, you're going to need some sort of a pump to move coolant if you try to do it with the trans cooler as whatever convection based flow you get will be extremely minimal. 99% of conventional propane installs use the heater lines for a reason.

Normally the trans cooler is just a separate little 'tank' style exchanger in the end cap of the radiator on the 'cold' side. Guys have used them for warming up water for a shower or whatever, but the amount of BTUs that you can get out of it is limited as the whole engine cooling system has to be pretty well saturated and it's not that big of a heat exchanger. You can buy plate style exchangers and splice it in the heater lines if you want better output. Expedition Portal is the place to go for that sort of stuff, IMHO, lots of DIYs and writeups on there for projects like that.