DirtyComanche

The front output is the weak link.

I don't think so, at the very least you need an output shaft for the 31 spline Ford input. I'm running a NWF Ecobox, and it's meant for the 205. I wasn't really suggesting you do it, it's a stout setup but very heavy and big. Plus you have to cut part of the case off the 205 and weld a plate in it. And make shifters, an extra mount (the weight issue) and it uses a different style speedo gear/drive, etc, so there's lots of things about it that aren't exactly ideal. That said, it does have fixed yokes from the factory, no SYE required.

Where abouts are you in the land of Oz?

Personally I'd find a NP241DLD or something like that for the rear tcase. But the SYE for it will be more money, if you can get one without making it yourself. I just don't think the 231 is strong enough for that use. However, lots of people have done it and all that, so eh, what do I know. If I was to do it I would absolutely run a SYE. I'm running a NP205 as the rear case in my XJ personally, and while I like it I don't know if I would do it again. Doublers are awesome unless you just run mud, sand, or easy trails. For a rear driveshaft I'd just call Tom Woods or High Angle or JE Reel or whatever. They all build good stuff for minimal money, and this would definitely be the preferred option as they will do it right the first time. Or, I'd lengthen (honestly you might not even need to, there might be one that long) an XJ front shaft because I'm really cheap, and then be upset when it failed and took out a bunch of other stuff. For the front shaft I'm not really sure, I don't recall what I'm using in the front of my XJ, but the 205 keeps the front shaft a lot shorter, so it might well just be another XJ or other Jeep shaft. Sorry to give you a useless answer.

I switched to a NG tankless a few years ago. I love it. Direct vent, 98% efficient. There is no delay in getting hot water out of it versus a regular tank unit. If you have hot water in your lines all the time with a tank unit then it isn't installed correctly. Never had any fault codes or shutdowns or anything like that. I need to run vinegar through it one of these days... Yes, you should do maintenance on them.

What's the P/N on them? I'm going to say probably not, likely they flow the wrong rate.

On the EV truck thing, adding additional battery modules to a trailer is great and all that, but the cost/benefit analysis for them would be poor for most people. Most people don't actually take their trailers that far on a regular basis, they make a few long trips with it sitting most of the time, or they make more frequent short trips. So, lots of cost for minimal use. Now, that said, it could be a great option for the right person. One would need a suitable electrical interface for the tow vehicle though, and there would be some challenges making such an interface robust, idiot-proof, and safe. Plus it would need to work with the tow vehicle, which could lead to some interesting BMS stuff, but that's easy enough to solve if there is a unified standard. Tesla would probably use some weird plug nobody else does, and you'd have to pay them a monthly fee for it to work. Don't worry though, that Elon guy is a genius and going to save humanity.

Not close at all. XJ/MJ is 71.5mm or 2.81" hub bore, KK is 67.1mm or 2.64". So almost 3/16" different. It baffles me they went to a smaller hub bore after years of it being the same, but that's FCA. I'm not intending to run this setup long term, or maybe at all at this point. But if you're going to use non-precision machining to open the hub bore up, make sure you go a little extra so it isn't contacting. The wheel has to become lug centric, you don't want your sloppy die grinder work causing it to seat off center.

So after 7 months of not touching this thing (I think) I finally did something. I put the wheels/tires I bought in August on it. The ones I bought so I could "just get it driving" before summer ended. Yes, I decided I just wanted to get it together enough to drive in 2wd, just to make sure the engine would be happy and then I could move on to replacing the axles. So, what's super amusing about this is that the wheels I bought are off a Jeep Liberty, and were ID'd as being a suitable year (2012 I think) to fit the XJ/MJ axles. They aren't. The hub bore was too small, so they're from a 2014 probably. Of course I'd already had the tires mounted, and didn't feel like taking them back off, or paying to do that, so properly machining the hub bore out was not really in the cards. So I just took them oversized with a die grinder. This simple act of just bolting some new wheels and tires on wound up taking 3 hours because of that. Anyway, hopefully I have some more time and can get a little momentum going on it.

There's only 2 or 3 main manufacturers. They're then all rebranded. If one cares to Google you can find out who makes what. I buy whatever is sitting on the tested good rack and the junkyard, fits, and has a recent date code. Hence I never answered the original question, because that's not really solid advice, but $20 for a battery is $20 for a battery.

I've noticed most (maybe all) of the Renix XJ/MJs I owned did this. I just assumed it's because the filter is oriented the wrong way from the factory and to not worry about it. Gravity is always going to win over time.

I think you should determine why they're dying first. Any lead acid battery (AGM and spiral cell included) will not live if it's being poorly charged or over discharged. As m2bandit said, check for parasitic draw. Also check your charging voltage is high enough, and not too high, and that the charge cable and feeder limiter (umm, fusible link? I forget what they're called in automotive) that's built into the cable is not damaged. Make sure you connectors are good, and your big starter cable and ground cable are good and the contact areas are clean.

That certainly makes sense. At the price point you can expect they had to cut corners somewhere, so the arms may be quite thin. The flex joints at least look like they could be swapped out for any competing joint, such as a Johnny Joint. The lift probably would be adequate for a lot of users, who are more on the street or the odd dirt road, but probably should be discounted for anyone looking to seriously wheel.

Which is a very valid reason. Originally all of the long arm kits were designed with the arms bolted to the crossmember, and no way to remove the crossmember to drop the transmission without having to drop your whole front axle. This design absolutely sucks if you have to change a clutch or tranny. Some time ago it seems most of the brands came around on making it so you didn't have to do that, which was after a few home brew types made their crossmembers that way. It's actually why I wouldn't consider buying it, regardless of what the rest of it is like. I didn't see the thickness anywhere, other than the crossmember is .250". I'd assumed the arms are the same, which should be adequate for most people. Are they thinner than that? And which joint is junk, their own flex joints? Do they fail, and how? They seem to use OEM bushings at the axle side, which is fine, that end does not misalign and a urethane bushing there will absorb some vibration. Spring rate is something that is subjective to your use. Same with shock valving. Personally I'd suspect they use not so great shocks, any cheap lift kit has to or it won't be a cheap kit.

What's up with Rough Country? They used to be literally one of the worst options for lift kits and suspension kits, but I was just glancing through what is available on TDot (Canadian retailer that's convenient for people in the frozen wasteland), and it looks like they sell an XJ long arm setup that appears to be reasonably well designed. https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-long-arm-upgrade-kit.html?find=1992-jeep-cherokee-xj-4wd-734952 It's radius arms, so it will have the same problems as any radius arm setup. But really, it seems like it's pretty decent. I'm not going to buy it, but was just curious if they've come around or not.

A Ranger lift spring look like a possible good option, if one could find them, or add another cut down main leaf. Or like you say, take the GM spring and maybe pull 3 leaves out of it. Definitely some options.

Getting a 97+ lift gate, which is steel, and then welding it in place is probably the better option. Lots of haaaaaaaaack ones out there with the fiberglass lift gate just glued or screwed on. It's one of those projects that's kinda neat, but not neat enough for me to want to do.

Which charts are you using? I'm looking for springs that are flatter than the stock MJ springs, so I can go SOA with a little higher spring rate and not get more than 4"~ lift. If that's possible without a custom spring.

Been good, just really busy with work. Haven't done anything with any of my Jeeps recently, so just stopped stopping in. Trying to get back into it so I'm going to poke around here more often. And I'm sure you will be. Likely you'll be over it in a few days.

The only current end is enough people getting it. Sorry, you are very wrong. It just isn't how this type of respiratory disease works. The vaccines are incredibly ineffective against controlling infection and spread; while proper masking offers somewhere between minor and significant advantages in certain situations, while doing nothing in others. Omicron is simply way too contagious, and the vaccines are tailored to the original virus, not what is now a variant that has very much mutated in the areas that the vaccine produced antibodies target. Vaccination can not win against something that is this easily spread and has such a short incubation period, nor can masking, hand washing, social distancing, disowning your own family because they didn't get vaccinated, or whatever other strategy currently is in place. That does not mean this is a losing battle, or that what I am saying is cause for alarm, but what I am saying is that reality is (unsurprisingly) not the extreme that is being pushed from either side. Everyone should look at the available vaccines and determine if it is worthwhile for them to take them, and choose whichever one is least likely to produce significant side effects given their situation. Certain people absolutely should NOT be getting vaccinated. Certain people absolutely SHOULD be. Healthcare is not a "one size fits all" mantra, and it should be cause for alarm when anyone is pushing that narrative. And yes, you should wash your hands, not touch your eyes/nose/mouth if they aren't washed, not go out if you're sick, consider wearing a N95 mask (cloth masks are effectively useless, and always have been) preferably with eye protection in certain settings, and definitely avoid high risk settings unless you're comfortable with the consequences, but most importantly actually try to be healthy in general. Obesity, poorly managed diabetes (as in, anything short of being fully managed), and vitamin deficiencies are some of the strongest correlations to severe illness; while interestingly enough mental health issues are also a strong correlation, with anxiety and stress being some of the major culprits. So, get some exercise, stop eating at McWendy's King JR every meal, put down the god damn soda, engage in things that make you happy, and maybe (I mean definitely but can't say that) take some (4000IU~) supplemental vitamin D and just like that you'll probably knock it most of those major correlations. Yes, correlation does not equal causation, but it's overwhelmingly not healthy people who are being hospitalized or even developing significant symptoms. It's also overwhelmingly people who are D deficient who are. I've handled/been in contact with hundreds of SARS-COV2 patients over the last year. And yes, I'm vaccinated. The above post is my opinion and not to be taken as medical advice. Please be nice to other people, and don't disown your own family over this.

I looked at these before I think... And they are flatter than factory MJ springs. You would also have to do something about the shackle location. I wanted them to go SOA and not get 5-6" of lift. I didn't buy them because it cost too much to gamble at the time, and the springs I had proved to perform fine in the end, even if a little too tall. Edit, I think I was looking at "C" truck (2wd) springs actually. I need to go dig into that again.

Oddly enough Fort St John has 27 in stock. Prince George has 0.

I have no idea how some people can get anything done when every square inch of their shop is covered in random junk and dirt.

Latest video: There's some more work done, but lots of unfinished stuff so not really anything to jam together to make the next video or really even a post. I did track down an axle, but I need some other stuff to make everything work. I need a rear axle too and there's lots of debate on that.

So, the picture/condensed version of what's in the next video. I wanted to go with polyurethane mounts because the guys running these things report they destroy their mounts all the time. Energy Suspension does not make an XJ tranny mount, and the other ones available are horribly expensive and really hard. So I used a TJ mount, which won't matter. Nothing is going where it normally would. TJ mount: I found that when I test fit everything and figured out where it should go that if I installed the trans crossmember backwards it all worked out perfectly with the TJ mount. Image to demonstrate the difference in the tranny crossmember: Test fit after moving a ton of $#!& so it would fit: Oil pan hit the steering and track bar. So I just removed them for now. It will be a huge problem: Another angle to show where the pitman arm is, and you can just imagine where the steering knuckle is on the other side... Yeah, straight through the oil pan is how it would have to go. Hacking the oil pan and lifting it is likely the best option. I looked at flipping the steering box around (astro box) or moving it forwards, but it really would just make for other goofy issues. The firewall needed some hammer work. This is still rough, I will smooth it later. This is so I can run the stock oil filter, which is massive and awesome. Lots of guys buy a relocation kit for a $#!&ty filter, and it doesn't make sense. After letting the weight off it the whole oil pan is actually sitting on the steering. This image didn't make it into the movie by accident, but let's just say the steering/oil pan problem is real and massive.