Blue88Comanche

We tried to get the slider but did not have the proper tools to remove it, we chipped a corner of it and gave up on it. did not want to completely destroy the window if someone else can remove it. I would be all for buying the whole truck if I had the money and storage for it. The MJ was in rather good shape, no rust spots, paint was good. And if I had the same level of workmanship as you I would have loved to use the 7 foot bed as a trailer.

Picked up a factory MJ bed light at the JY today! Also finished hooking up the E-Locker, it works and I am happy. Still need to swap out the brake bleeders with speed bleeders. I might be able to do that and find my drive-line vibe tomorrow.

Dad and i make it out to the JY this afternoon. We where searching for a Master Brake Cylinder when we came across a 1986 Comanche. It had the V-6, was 2wd, and the body was in good shape. but the best part........ It had a bed light and the dash switch! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: And as proof I did snatch the bed light. We also left with the MJ side vent covers, 97+ front clip, the newer 10 curved blade electric aux fan, windshield wiper control boxes, 97+ windshield wiper arms

Finally got the Comanche home! Going to finish the wiring for the E-Locker and install speed bleeders on the brakes.

You are welcome here, the site is for those who ever wanted, has, or had a Comanche. If you are a Comanche fan then you are good to go! Your ZJ conversion looks great!

I was looking through craigslist when i discovered a Comanche for sale. i clicked the link and looked at the pic, he has 3 MJ side by side! http://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/4318092648.html $3500 just seems a little much, but it does look like its in good condition

so apparently the brake pads where put on backwards? the inner pad where the outter pad goes and what not... I don't see how that would cause the loss of pressure. when i go to pick it up you can bet i am pulling off the wheels and inspect the brakes before i head home.... if my jacks are in the toolbox and not at home.... and this time i am driving during the day, without rain, while it is warm outside.... tomorrow i am going to the JY and will be picking up another Master Cylinder.

If you need a bigger landmine check out this nuclear mine.... http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_Atomic_Demolition_Munition

Did you click the link I provided in the spoiler? I searched "tube bed" it was on the first page.

Not 12v, so i am guessing 24v? I think that depending on how they where mounted they would look good as a factory alternative. it would just be a lot of work

search is your friend

Slave cylinder? the calipers and drum pistons? I know the basic way to bleed the brakes but can't remember how to bleed the bypass. do i do a normal bleed first then, then leave open one of the front bleeders and bleed the back, after the bypass line is bled, do another normal bleed? If the master is bad i plan to use the 97+ or WJ master again (I don't recall what i used the first time), is there a difference or a performance difference between the two?

they took it to another shop and think it may be the master cylinder. it is set up to some sort of pressure tester bypassing the master cylinder checking for leaks. if it is the master, cylinder then its not anything they did and i will have it towed home and replace it my self.

SYE will replace the driveshaft slip yoke with a permanent non slip yoke on the TC. the driveshaft will need to be replaced with one that allows compression and extension for suspension travel (picture the front drive shaft for example it is basically a SYE setup) so you will not use the stock drive shaft.

Thanks a bunch. I don't want to go too crazy with hiding things, but I'll definitely keep them in. I think hiding just the very in depth stuff like transmission ratios helps keep the potential buyer from being overwhelmed. for the most part none of the major car companies list the transmission ratios just the drive axle ratios and available engines. If you have a section or sub section for off road, maybe have something to answer the basic I just got a jeep, what size tires will fit or how high can i lift it, and is there a body lift (someone always asks :nuts: ) questions. Fuel Economy seems to be important to newer generations, maybe have a sub-section in each engine description with Fuelley banners that show various real world MPGs (hidden as most of us get very poor fuel economy and that might scare them away lol) I can provide a full sized banner like yours if needed. don't forget about the Street Comanches! . :MJ 1: .

I like the use of spoilers. for me getting into something new having to much info is off putting. I can't tell you how many time i have looked to start a project only to be overwhelmed by a massive "introduction" guide. having the spoilers is a great idea, it can limit the information down to a level most are comfortable with and still have in depth information for those who are interested. I like the guide thus far keep up the good work! :thumbsup:

If something can be made i would be interested in a few sets as well :thumbsup:

can it not be milled? I haven't actually looked them over in detail... I think there are companys online that offer 3D printing, not sure what they would cost but better than 5-7K for molds

or better yet, http://comancheclub.com/topic/39063-88-axle-swap-into-a-90-comanche/ yes its an 8.8 and he is doing SUA, but the method to install is the same

jack up the rear of the truck and use jack stands to suspend the truck at the frame. remove the axle, cut off the spring perches before you weld on the new perches use tape to hold them in place while you re attach the axle to the rear suspension. make sure its is tight enough not to shift when the truck is lowered lower the truck with the rear axle on jack stands so that the springs take the weight. take measurements raise the truck, make adjustments, repeat as needed. when everything is how you like it tack weld the perches, remove the axle and finish welding them to the axle... -- to determine the angle use a level, or if you have an iphone the ihandy carpenter app has a nice level that shows degrees.

Thanks! :cheers: An update of the past few days, As I was driving the MJ home the brakes went out, and the emergency bypass line works. I thought i would never need it and was planning to replace the MJs brake setup with one from an XJ or ZJ. Now i plan to keep the MJ set up. The MJ is back at the shop and they are looking over it to determine what caused the brake frailer. I should hear back from them today.

Page 10 in my build thread, I installed the WJ LCAs WJ LCAs on the right WJ UCAs on the left

i was able to buy a re-manufactured compressor for around $100 (Ebay). the drier will need to be replaced (might as well replace the pressure switch), the condenser and evap "should" be ok. maybe someone who can give a better answer will chime in. using rock auto Compressor $200 Drier $20-$30 O-Ring kit $7 total pre shipping about $237 You still will need R134a, a vacuum pulled on the system (I skipped this step.... but plan to have it done in the future) and maybe the conversion kit,

There should be a wire that activates the compressor, (I think its the only wire on the compressor) touch it to the positive on the battery and it will activate the clutch. if it comes on reconnect everything, and look at the drier there should be an electrical connector on it. unplug it, while the truck is running jump the connectors in the wire harness long enough to see if the ac clutch kick on. If it does, then you are 1 low on Refrigeration coolant, 2 the pressure switch is broken, or 3 (in my case) the switch was broken and had a leak that allowed my 134a to leak out. if it does not, then replace the AC relay and retry the above test. My build thread has a pic of the wire I jumped for the pressure switch. I would have a shop pull all the r12 out, then replace the drier and the pressure switch.

i would also click on the jeep in my signature and browse through the manuals I have on my skydrive available for download.