JeffN

Some things i just ran across. Truck took forever to get started, 15 second crank times. It was hesitating and even backfiring under heavy load. I Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Specs are 31lbs at idle, 39lbs with regulator vacuum unhooked. I had 26 lbs both ways....................problem there. As soon as I shut the truck down it did not hold fuel pressure, dropped to zero pretty quick.................another problem. I ordered a new pump and proceeded to to pull the unit from the tank. Aha, the fuel line from the pump to the sending unit had softened to the point it was ready to fall off the sending unit. I replaced the hose and used 2 new clamps, did not replace the pump. Pressure at rail now at idle is 31lbs and 39lbs with regulator vacuum unhooked. It now holds pressure when I shut the truck off and cranks times are now down to 3-5 seconds I would suggest you look into these readings because they are important, 35 lbs at idle is not right, make sure you have vacuum at the regulator

severely warped brake rotors on the front can cause it also

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Cata ... ecType%3aA) Or i just found a grommet that fit, went to the pick n pull and cut one of the hard plastic right angle hoses from a later model gm that fit the grommet and used a piece of heater hose to splice it in

the gaskte under the throttle plate may be sucked in

if you pull the radio it should be laying there if you knocked it off, there are a few vacuum lines in the block, hard to miss

there is a timer that turns off the headlights after around a minute

Alignment shops won't do an alignment with a bad steering box because they have customers that think it will solve every problem they have. I know first hand and a bad steering box with tons of play will have a slim chance at centering the steering wheel. I am not saying you would complain but 90% of the people that want an alignment done even with bad parts keep coming back to the shop saying "You aligned my vehicle and now you have to fix it for free since my vehicle isn't right". Some shops, (most) do up-sell as it is part of their profit margin but they have to protect themselves also.

Go to autozone and get the $17.99 electric fan control switch, it has a temp probe that will hook into the factory fan relay. Part Number: 733653

i have a decent set of grey ones with the window crank holes. if you live near central ohio you may have them

There is a cross harness in my 90, it runs under the carpet

most alignment shops now are sadly "toe and go" alignments, I put 4 new adjustable struts on my Grand prix and when I picked it up they told me they won't do caster/camber adjustments without paying almost an extra $80. They also told me the camber was way out and i will end up going thru $160 per tire tires in 6 months time. I instantly wrote a letter to Grismer tire and complained, never got a response. So, i payed $79.95 for a 1/4 inch adjustment on my toe in.

looks like they would have to be indexed to reap any real benefits.

you need an electronic flasher unit, LED lights won't have the amp pull to start the standard flasher flashing

mine was drivers side on the radiator, there is a fan relay that will go bad also, it is on the drivers side fenderwell

maybe your cooler lines are clogged somehow and keeping the radiator from cooling the fluid off

find the low pressure cut out switch, it should be on one of the lines and take a wire and bridge the connection to see if everything comes on. It may just be a bad low pressure switch if the freon charge is correct.

It's true for Renix also

if you open the system up you really need to replace the dryer anyways, esp if it is humid out or you will have to evac the system for at least an hour. plus the oil in there isn't compatible really with the 134A refrigerant and cooling will suffer. The dessicant(sp) will suck up humidity like a sponge. If you replace the dryer make sure you add the proper amount of p.a.g. oil to it (usually around 2 ounces)

As for the cruise, alot of times the wire to your brake switch will break, the module for cruise should be right near the steering column under the dash

Rubber hoses can cause that also, make sure when you work on your brakes the caliper is supported and not hanging from the rubber hoses

also check that you didn't click the e-brake a couple of clicks

Do they light up and just not flash? Is it the same front and rear? Many, many things could be wrong, we need more information to be able to help.

as for the automatic 2WD not being desirable, I have to disagree. That transmission has been bulletproof and you don't have to worry about your fuse box getting shorted from clutch fluid. And you don't have to worry about your slave cylinder leaving you stranded by blowing it's seal whenever it wants to. Oh, and my truck will shred the tires anytime I want it to. :banana:

referring to the first post check that you are getting power out of the ignition switch when in crank mode

fill it from the metal tube off of the water pump, huge air pockets get there and will cause problems