JeffN

That circuit doesn't attach to the ECM at all, if the fuses are good and there is power there check your dash ground wiring

check the hall effect sensor in the distributor, aka pickup coil

Lol. I just put a motor in a Lincoln Navigator. I had to remove the body from the frame

Pretty simple to pull really. 1- Take the 3 10mm headed bolts out of the shifter. 2- Remove clutch line at the transmission. 3- Remove driveshaft. 4- Unscrew speedometer cable from trans 5- Remove starter 6- Unbolt the flywheel dust shield bolts 7- Unbolt crossmember at the frame mounting points (8 bolts) 8- Take out the bellhousing bolts 9- Slide the transmission out

check coolant temp sensor for the ECU, if it is reading wrong it may attempt a "cold" start causing more fuel than needed to be sprayed into the motor.

Most auto repairs shops can install a odometer discrepancy sticker showing actual mileage from old cluster and mileage from the new. That is the legal way we do it in Ohio anyways

It has a valve you have to open, your charge port should look something like a "T". There are 2 caps on each port you have to take the steel cap that is in line with the hose and there is a square head that you need to open or it will never take freon

Suspect bad ignition switch

clean out the crap between the ac condenser and the radiator, mine was running hot like that until I cleaned all the leaves out

Sounds like one for a dummy light that you put in, not the gauge unit

A manifold exhaust leak should quite down a bit as the manifold gets hotter and expands, closing the gap, make sure all your manifold bolts are tight. It is a common problem on 4.0 engines

Make a teardrop, they are cool retro. http://www.mikenchell.com/

I believe that is a knock sensor below the exhaust manifold. one temp sensor is on the drivers side back of the head on top and the other i believe is really close to the thermostat housing

common for a vehicle without a true pcv system

I am talking about where the steel bell that attaches to the rail itself is, I took it off and ran it to a muffler shop and they brazed it up for me. All is right with the world again :clapping:

Has anyone had the fuel rail start pumping fuel out of it at the connection point of the rail? I thought I had a bad O-ring so I replaced it and fuel is still pouring out and seems to be coming from where the upper O-ring cap attaches to the rail. (metal to metal connection). I am thinking it was a problem because I went to the pick&pull today and they had tons of cherokees but the years I needed the rail off of were all missing, the injectors were still in the head but all 3 had the rails removed.

if you are using an ink pen or something like that it won't push the buttons in properly, try unfolding a paperclip and then give it a shot

get a swivel socket and it is much easier

They all work loose, both my trucks did. It's just years of expansion and contraction

Make sure your intake manifold is tight

Might be your temp sensor telling the pcm a signal that it is too hot and leaning it out until fluid gets moving or even the o2 sensor

First off you need to put a set of gauges on it to make sure you didn't lose your freon. If the charge gets low the switch won't allow it to turn on.

Hot cables means you have a problem with either resistance in the cable or a starter pulling too many amps. I would replace at least the negative cable and double check all your ground straps, ie body to engine and frame to body.

Tires may be in balance but check for an out of round condition or a broken belt in the tire, try moving the backs to the front

put a noid light on the injector plug in and make sure you are getting an injector pulse from the ecm