JeffN

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4178012409.html

Failure for High CO; CO is an indication of a Rich mixture. This is, too much fuel entering into the cylinders or not enough air. If a fuel injector is leaking into a cylinder, that cylinder will be running a richer fuel mixture causing it to run out of air and the flame burn out before the fuel is consumed properly. This is like turning off the vents on your charcoal grill and the fire goes out. The fuel is partially burned but, not all the way consumed. Engine temperature is a factor in how much of the fuel is burned. Cold engines cannot burn the fuel as well as an engine at operating temperature. A variety of sensors are used on the engine to match up the correct amount of fuel and air. Three major sensors report to the Engine Computer ( ECM) and have the biggest impact on allowing the computer to provide the right amount of fuel. The ECT or Engine Coolant temperature sensor reports the coolant temperature. The Mass Airflow Sensor, measures the amount of incoming air into the engine. The O2 or Oxygen Sensor, measures the oxygen content in the exhaust flow so the ECM can adjust the fuel mixture trying to stay at the 14.7 to 1 ratio. Depending on the fuel system your vehicle is running, a leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator diaphragm or Fuel Pressure Sensor out of calibration could be the cause. Oxygen sensors wear out over time. They generally fail towards the lean setting. You engine computer could be richening up the mixture to compensate.

I only use Wix filters for that exact reason

make sure you have vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator, and make sure it isn't leaking fuel through the vacuum port on the regulator (a sure sign of a bad regulator)

packing peanuts would end up squeaking alot and drive you nuts

I had the same problem about a year ago, it turned out to be the hose inside the tank that was leaking the fuel back into the fuel tank, the one from the pump to the sending unit. a new piece of hose and haven't had a problem since

Check TPS and fuel pressure

take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld a new O2 sensor bung in right behind the old sensor and just unplug the old and plug the new in. If you really want it out heat the bung portion till it is cherry red, it should come out, of course a propane torch will never get it hot enough.

if its a no crank, have someone hold the key in the start position while you tap the starter with a small hammer, if it starts the brushes or the commutator in the starter have gone bad

just rotate them after you get the 2 screws out, there is a flat spots on the stud and will slide right out

switch it with the cooling fan relay, they are the same

I did the napa conversion and it works fine

no, only automatics so ignore my answer

I take it it is an automatic? Could be your downshift cable sticking once it gets hot. Check that it isn't near the exhaust

http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/c ... tegoryId=3

install a vacuum gauge and try to keep the needle as high as possible

You are running a dual battery setup? That is a isolator for the second battery. If you don't need it run the wires direct to the battery

From decodethis.com VIN 1JTHL6512GT012947 Vehicle History Report Get your Vehicle History Report NOW Year 1986 Engine Type 2.5L L4 OHV 12V Make AMC Driveline 4WD Model Comanche Ground Clearance No data in. Trim Level Custom 4WD Front Brake Type No data Manufactured In UNITED STATES Rear Brake Type No data Body Style REGULAR CAB PICKUP 2-DR Anti-Brake System No data Transmission 5-Speed Manual Standard Seating No data MPG Hwy No data miles/gallon Optional Seating No data MPG City No data miles/gallon Tires No data Dealer Invoice No data USD Wheelbase No data in. MSRP No data USD Curb Weight No data lbs

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/3047518651.html

year and engine size would help

check fuel pressure, a lean condition can cause it to run hotter than normal

If you have access to an air compressor coat the outside with soapy water and blow air around the windows, doors ect. and bubbles will appear where it is leaking. An automotive glass guy showed me the trick.

any cherokee regulator should work up to 1996 model, 4 door only

if it is too loose and flops around it can shred it, you adjust the power steering pump to tighten it.

If it still has external threads where you charge it is still R-12 and you need to be licensed to do that system. You should only charge it thru the low side port (the one with the fatter hose). And you will have to open up the port with a wrench to accept freon into the system