Chico

JT, let me know if this helps you. http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... 3/34853860

I didn't ask him about the valves but I'll ask tomorrow. I don't know if he'll know because he's a ASE VW mechanic, but I'll ask. Eagle should know. Let me look at my FSM and I'll get back to you.

Jt, I just talked to a mechanic that told me that you shouldn't try to clean it with anything because he says anything you use might fall into the engine, drop to the oil pan, get sucked up by the oil pum, clog it and cause you more problems than you want. That's his advive if your not going to dismantle the engine. Sorry. Hope that helps a little.

I think that if the coolant is squirting into the overflow bottle the waterpump should be working. He might have a clog in one of the lines or the radiator. I think you're supposed to run a garden hose into one of the lines to check. Don't quote me though because I'm definitely not a mechanic. If you run a search in the tech section a lot of posts have been put up about flushing the system and bleeding it. Good luck

Don't rush man, BLHTAZ said he might be able to get me one 2morrow. Thanks anyway for the help Jeff :cheers:

Jeff, where did you get that MAT sensor? I can't find it at NAPA or Autozone. Neither one says they carry it.

Ok, BLHTAZ, so do thbe rest of us get your discount too? :brows:

I'll take them if they are in good condition.

Jeepco I'm not sure about the 2.5 but the 4.0 the coolant temp sensor to the ECU is located in the engine coolant jacket on the driver's side of the block, underneath the exhaust manifold

If you go to Adam's website, greatlakesxj.com he has a 88 xj service manual you can download.

Yup, that's the hose ifixit8.

Ever since it's been cold my truck runs like poop until the temperature in the engine bay gets to a certain point. After posting about 3 topics in this forum, changing a good amount of sensors, and kicking the truck uncontrollably I finally figured out my problem yesterday. TIP for everyone. Work on your truck in the daylight, sober and when the temperature is above freezing! :oops: Well I was looking around the engine bay and underneath And I noticed there was a port on the air box closer to the front on the left hand side(passenger side) that was about 2" in diameter. I had always thought that was where it took in air. Needless to say I later found a hose coming out of what looks like my ex manifold that was smashed under my lower radiator hose. I pulled it out and used a generic hose and two clamps to hook the two up. The original was a type of fabric I think and had plenty of small holes in it. Some electrical tape, rubber bands and superglue later and everything hooks up. Guess what? The truck runs a million times better now when it's cold. No more stuttering and coughing and stalling and waiting 20minutes with the truck warming up just so I can get 3.5 miles to work!!! The original hose is 20 years old I'm sure, and no auto part store here carries it so I guess I'll be going to the dealership this week to get the correct part because I doubt the work I did on the hose will not hold. I'm going to pick up A MAT sensor too because that's about the only sensor I haven't changed. So in conclusion anybody having problems with stuttering at 1800 RPM's or higher untill the engine is good and warm, CHECK THIS STINKIN HOSE FOR HOLES AND A GOOD CONNECTION. It could just solve all your problems. :D I'll post back with the price of the hose this week or if anyone knows where to get it cheaper, let me know.

MANIFOLD AIR/FUEL TEMPERATURE Sensor MAt sensor provides a signal to the ecu that changes depending upon temperature of the fuel/air mixture in the intake manifold. During high temperature conditions ECU will compensate for changes in density of air. (TAKEN FROM 1988 FSM)

Oh, I forgot. The gear side swivels. Maybe that's why they are expensive.

Mine are size 8mm straight to 19mm Yeah, that's what the MAC are.

Hey while we are on this subject. The MAC tool guy told me a set from 8mm to 19mm of their "gear wrenches" is $150. So I take it it's not a good deal? The only thing I can say is they replace it for free if it breaks (lifetime warranty). What do you guys think?

Hey that looks great man. What brand rims and size tires are those?

Aybody think this could be an ignition coil or ignition control module problem?

Yup, I balanced my tires today and it seems to have fixed the wobble. Everything else checked out okay except that two of the rims are bent. They are now on the back. My balance was off by 1 oz to 2.25 oz per tire. :eek:

pictures as requeted. Sorry this is half only. P.S.Sorry about the pictures. I don't know hgow to make em smaller.

I am. Sorry don't know if you were asking me. :oops:

Well if you guys figure this out let me know. I have the same problem.

Jeff what are yours.

33x12.5 or 33x10.5? What would I have to do for 12.5?

Got it. :D