Chico

Happy to see I'm not the only one who likes to poke holes in radiators. You, sir, now have a shot for the IDIOT OF THE MONTH award. Stand proud! :D Not a distinction that I really want, but probably one that I really deserve! As long as you both understand I've got Moron of the Month locked down You can officially relieve Hornbrod of his award. :D

I thought the long start time was normal too. I changed every sensor, including the injectors and did a full tune up and no change. Then I put a new cable from the negative terminal on the battery to the engine with a second wire going from that same terminal to the fender and a "new" braided gound strap and voila.... Not only does the truck start as fast as a brand new car but it also fixed all my driveability problems, except maybe the fact that it sucks up gas like an alchoholic sucks up vodka.

I agree. You can buy one at autozone for $20. Make sure it's getting hot first before you start replacing unnecessary parts like I did.

Thanks Hornbrod. So does anyone want me to finish this or are we just posting pictures?

Are you going by what your gauge says? I was and it's definetly off on mine.

I think I've got most of the sizes down. Now on to lift. If I remember correctly the way to measure is from the center of your axle/wheel to the bottom of the stock fender flare. Ther was another way but I don't remember what it was. Somebody chime in. Stock was 17" front 21" back Can someone confirm that? Since not all lift kits actually give you the amount advertized everyboby is going to have to measure. So.... Anybody that measures 18" front and 22" rear is actually a 1" lift. and so on.... Does that sound like the correct way to do this. I guess we can go in half inch increments from stock to what?...8-10 inches of lift. Whoever doesn't have stock flares or has cut up the fenders is going to have to measure the other way. I'll post it up if I can find it. Unless someone chimes in with the method. Sound good? Any suggestions before I get crackin?

I've been using a Dremmel with a heavy duty cutoff wheel. They don't last long but I get a more precise cut than with a reciprocating saw and blade.

You got it, Drahcir495. It's been added :thumbsup:

Let's just start with tire size and lift. So far here are the tire sizes I found at Tirerack.com If I miss any let me know and I'll start editing. 15" Wheels 205/75/15 215/75/15 225/70/15 225/75/15 235/70/15 235/75/15 265/70/15 27x9.5x15 30x9.5x15 30x10.5x15 31x9.5x15 31x10.5x15 31x11.5x15 31x12.5x15 32x9.5x15 32x10.5x15 32x11.5x15 33x9.5x15 33x10.5x15 33x12.5x15 33x13.5x15 33x14.5x15 34x9.5x15 34x10.5x15 34x12.5x15 35x10.5x15 35x12.5x15 35x14.5x15 36x12.5x15 36x13.5x15 36x14.5x15 37x12.5x15 37x13x15 37x13.5x15 38x11x15 38x12.5x15 38x15.5x15 39.5x13.5x15 16"wheels 225/75/16 235/75/16 235/85/16 245/70/16 245/75/16 255/70/16 265/70/16 265/75/16 285/75/16 305/70/16 315/75/16 38.5x14.5x16 17"wheels 33x12.5x17 I guess these are the most common size due to the fact they're in their magazine add. I tried calling them to get a complete list of all sizes between 205/75/15 and a 37" or 38" tire but they were no help at all. I'll just keep checking other ads to get more sizes............ Also I only listed 15" and 16" wheels because no one seems to be running anything differnt. Let me know if you want to add 14" or 17-18 wheels. I guess if someone runs them we can just add their picture and specs

I'm sorry. I'm not trying to be smart here, but I still don't get it. I've run 87, 89, 91, 93, 94 octane and the higher the number the smoother my engine seems to run. I'm not a mechanic and know nothing of octane ratings. Somebody school me.

By priming do you mean turning the key to the on position, waiting a few seconds and then starting the motor? Is this a 4.0?

Agreed. It's made to run on 87, 89 at best. Anything over that is hurting more than helping, though that may not be the problem here. What would running 91 octane or higher hurt?

Ok. I'll set up an account with photobucket so they'll all be hosted off the same site unless you have a better idea. Let's have the front of the truck on the left side of the picture. Pete can you decide on a size everyone should Pm they're pictures. I'm going to start compiling tire sizes now. I take it all pictures should be on level ground with no flexing/stuffing.

Let's just do the side to start. I'll start making a list tonight. Unless someone else Reeeealy wants to make it. :nuts:

Like Brent said we have the projects section. But.... If one person wants to take charge of organizing it. They could make a really long post in the DIY section with every lift amount/tire size you could think of and organize it like a graph. Like so: 0"lift-29"tires 0" lift 30" tires 0" lift 31" tires and so one until probably the last reasonable one would be 8" lift 38" tires Every option would be a link to a picture of a member's rig with that size lift and tires. That would be kind of neat and probably very useful to new owners/club members trying to decide what they would like to run by just looking at it. Of course then they could look up the member's info in the project forum or contact them direcly for further info. My 2 cents :cheers:

Can you believe we're not in the top 100,000? What the hell does the rest of the world surf on the net? Porn? :D

So, I used the Block Tester from Napa to test and see if there were any exhaust gasses in my coolant. Good news is that there is not, so head gasket is good. Went ahead and changed out the temp sender on the back of the head to see if that was bad and my gauge would read normal. Brand new sensor. Gauge still reads the same. I'm getting a "new" gauge and see if it will read normal then. I used two more differnt laser thermometers on the sensor and the thermostat housing and the temperature still reads normal on them (190-215*). We'll see....... On a side note. Does anyone know if the CSF radiator from Motion Offroad has the hole to screw in the temp switch for the Aux fan on it or am I going to have to look for something else? Side note #2. I've read Eagle's and BLHtaz's post about using the Moroso surge tank instead of the plastic pressure bottle. Besides more coolant capacity and the fact that it won't crack like plastic, what are the advantages of using it?

Pinpong, how do you bumpstop it properly? Can you buy a longer bumpstop. My tires stick out past the fenders and like Eagle said hit bodywork, instead of tucking in. How can I get that to stop keeping the tires and wheels I run now?

Yeah, so I called a "profesional mechanic" today and explained your problem to him saying it was my truck. He said it's possible that the clutch is not fully disengaging causing it to stall at a stop. If it's not that he said it's probably the IAC.

X2 on my 88

IAC is also listed at the parts store as Stepper Motor. Did the stalling start after you swapped everyting out?

Did you get the cable that has a second wire that bolts to the fender? If no try replacing that braided ground line on the back of the engine to the firewall.

On your list list of new parts you have negative battery cable. Is it the one that has a second wire that runs to the fender and bolts there. If no did you try and replace the braided ground line from the back of the engine to the firewall?

Naw, I got that award wrapped up by drilling a hole through my radiator last week. How about "MORON OF THE MONTH AWARD" Has a nice ring to it, don't ya think?? All right. I can be fair. You've got Idiot, I've got Moron :D

Yup, I'm wrong. If you look at the picture that has the view from the top, your IAC is on the right. What you pulled is the TPS. Sorry bout that. It's differnt than mine. When you pull the IAC it will have like a little cone thing on the inside.