Chico

exactly, however the cable doesn't always slide right into the speedo gear in the transfer case

Yup, that's it.

This might sound stupid, but did you remember to plug everything back in? If you did, try putting the old IAC back on. if the problem goes away it's faulty.

Ladies and gentlemen. This man definitely wins the cleanest MJ of the month award. Congrats and welcome :cheers:

You can not buy the MJ sending unit from any JEEP dealer in the USA. You can like brig says google junkyards that can use a database to locate a used one. You can buy an XJ one but will have to modify a bit to fit your tank. That one from Autozone will not work in your tank without modification. A lot of people on this board have bought it and need to bend/reweld certain parts to get it not to hit the in-tank pan. I have not done it personally but if you run a search in the TECH section a lot of posts have come up on the subject. If you do decide to buy that sender you can get it on Ebay for cheaper. To answer your question, No one stocks that part new. It does not excist.

Personally Dubya, I still think it's the battery or the alternator. If you can't or don't feel like running the tests, go to Wal-mart. Buy a cheap battery and put it in. If the truck works and dies later you know it's the alternator. If it doesn't even start with the new battery you can always just take it back to Wal-Mart and get your money back and then start looking for crazy electrical problems. I agree w/ Eagles first post that you might as well get the obvious crap outta the way before you start stressing yourself out with the other crap.

What's wrong with your sending unit? You can no longer buy a new one for an 88 comanche.

Replacing the dash harness is easy. All you need to do is take apart the whole dash :D The good news is you don't need any special tools. Just a screwdriver and a couple sockets. Yu'll need a marker, tape, and baggies so you can mark and remember where everything goes after you pull the old one out. TAKE LOTS OF GOOD PICTURES AS YOU PULL THE OLD ONE OUT. I didn't and it took me about 100 hours to replace the dash and engine harness because I had no idea where anything went. Seriously though, if I had to do it again I could probably do it in three to four hours. And that's with absolutely no mechanical experience or patience.

Two small bolts hold the bracket in place at the transfer case. Pull these and the whole piece pulls off. If you still can't get the cable into the gear you have to unscrew the large nut and fanaggle from there. I'll take pics tonight if you need em. I just did it again yesterday when I changed my speedo gear to the correct tooth count. The work under the truck took me less than 10 minutes. It's not hard as long as your patient and have good tools.

So let's get this staight. You ripped up the bolts on the dana 44 because you had to rip over a parking stop at the local Linen & Things just so you could get a good parking spot? I understand your pain man. Happens to me all the time :rotfl2: Just kidding :cheers:

It's not hard to do. You can do it in less than half an hour. I think there's 4 screws that hold the dash bezel in place. Then pull the cluster out by taking out those screws. (I think it was 7 or 8). Put the "new cable" on. Make sure you have the same style clamp. stick the cable back into the housing. If you get lucky it'll slide back into the speedo gear in the transfer case. If it doesn't just pull the speedo cable out of the tranfer case. Set the cable back into the gear and put it back in the transfer case. Remember to grease the cable when you put it back into the housing so the needle on your speedo won't vibrate. I just don't know what a good grease is because I used petro-gel lubricant that I use on my restaurant equipment and it didn't last more than two weeks. I'm sure someone else on here can tell you what is good.

So basically you can't get it to Autozone or an equivalent to have em check the battery and alternator right?

James, I'm sorry I was wrong. After reading up on the sensors again I read that the CTS controls engine warm up idle speed. So glad to hear the MAP helped. Any more problems and I guess the CTS would be next.

JT. It is also possible that you have an exhaust leak somewhere between the head and the O2 sensor. I've changed my TPS, IAC, CTS, knock, EGR, injectors, MAT, MAP, O2, EGR solenoid and CPS and was still running rich. It wasn't until I changed my exhaust/intake manifold gasket that I started seeing a little better gas mileage which still sucks. Eagle explained a little while back that if exhaust is leaking before the O2 sensor it believes the exhaust is lean causing it to adjust the fuel ratio (going up) which makes the truck run rich and gives ya crappy gas mileage. Just another possibility. Before you go changing a million sensors though I'd try to find someone with that Snap-On MT2500 that reads the info and tells you what's going on with the sensors or you can use that page Wildman gave you to check em. Of course it is completely possible that the new O2 sensor is junk.

JT. It is also possible that you have an exhaust leak somewhere between the head and the O2 sensor. I've changed my TPS, IAC, CTS, knock, EGR, injectors, MAT, MAP, O2, EGR solenoid and CPS and was still running rich. It wasn't until I changed my exhaust/intake manifold gasket that I started seeing a little better gas mileage which still sucks. Eagle explained a little while back that if exhaust is leaking before the O2 sensor it believes the exhaust is lean causing it to adjust the fuel ratio (going up) which makes the truck run rich and gives ya crappy gas mileage. Just another possibility. Before you go changing a million sensors though I'd try to find someone with that Snap-On MT2500 that reads the info and tells you what's going on with the sensors or you can use that page Wildman gave you to check em. Of course it is completely possible that the new O2 sensor is junk.

I just saw the funniest thing. This guy posted up an 88 and people are sending him complaints about the fact that he wrote "rare" and that he's charging $2500. The best part is that he posted up the questions people are asking. I hope he gets what he wants out of it considering a slew of things need fixed and he's only driven it 15 miles. Here's the post. It looks clean. Don't know if it's worth $2500 though http://contact.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ShowAllQuestions&requested=donzwon&redirect=0&SSPageName=PageAskSellerQuestion_VI&&iid=160233984584&ShowASQAlways=1&frm=284&guest=1

Hey that looks good. Did you have to adapt anything or does it just screw right on?

Ok, so I suppose with the ARB you could adapt the brackets and hooks you have to fit right? How bout the ones you sell Motion. Can you give us a good description with pros and cons and any advice on any other bumpers. Sorry girsmj about the thread hijack. :oops:

Have you decided on which bumper you're gonna buy yet Chico? It really depends on how it's mounted and how it's constructed. There's a lot of them out there, some better than others. And tow hook brackets can be adapted to D-ring shackles too. :cheers: Nope, no idea yet. I've been looking at the ARB w/bull bar like JohnQ's, the Warrior with brush gaurd like someone else on this board or just a simple one like MJeff's. I guess I'm looking more at what's the strongest and best protection for our trucks without being ridiculously heavy to the point where it's gonna weigh the front of the truck down to the floor. I was actually gonna start a thread on everyone's opinions closer to when I was ready to buy one but now that it came up I guess I'll start one 2morrow, unless someone feels like doing it tonight.

This is gonna sound like a ridiculous question, but I just need it for clarification purposes. There is absolutely no reason to buy tow hooks and brackets if I'm gonna buy a front bumper with D ring shackles on the front right?

Yup, that's right. Send Checkers to heck. PM BLHTAZ and just get the sensors from his dealership. You'll get a good price and it's a factory part. Worth the money IMHO.

Here's the MAT pics

Checker's is a jackass. It's two wire sensor that goes from the back of the intake manifold to the harness closest to the firewall. Let me see if I can get a picture.

Yes, that's great and you'll be happy you replaced those if they're still the stock ones. Your truck will run much better. However, it will not fix your IDLE problem because I don't believe they control it at startup. You probably have a faulty IAC (stepper motor) or the one you put in is not seated properly against the throttle body. If you got it a checker's it's completely possible that the sucker says made in China or Tawain and is poorly made causing you the problem you are describing. I've had the same problem happen to me. So while you go pick up all those sensors pick up another IAC and put it in. Put the old one back in the box, take it back to Checkers, and if it fixed your problem take careful aim and chuck it at the store manager with a big smile on your face all the while calming explaining that Checkers should start buying crap that says MADE IN THE USA. :USAflag: