Chico

It could be a number of things. Most of the time it's a bad sensor. Someone post up the link to that LUNDG something site that has all the differnt ways to check your sensors and tells you what they do. If you haven't replaced your O2 sensor I'd probably start with that. And 15-17 mpg sounds great to me because I only get 10-12mpg. However I've seen people here get 18-25mpg. Who knows.

Yeah, I tried that too, but not only do I have fat hands, I also have short T-rex length arms and I found it uncomfortable to try and reach up while laying on the floor to spin em.

Oh, I fired my pizza guy due to drug and alchohol problems and considering the fact I'm the only one who knows how to do it in the shop with no applicants in sight that are worth a rat's rear end and closing the shop our three busiest days of the week is not an option I decided to take myself off the maybe list. Who knows, maybe the border patrol in AZ will fall asleep and let one slip thru between now and July :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: Seriously though, the good news is I'm saving a crap load on payroll that would have gone to new tires and a lift. However it's getting spent now on silly stuff, such as rear brakes, parking brake cables and those two bars up front I think they call tie rods or draglinks :rotfl2: Couple more parts and I'll have a brand new truck soon :D If however I by some miracle hire someone new and train them in time I'll see you guys there. Hey, if not, have a great time for me :thumbsup: And don't forget to take some good pictures :D

Pete are you by any chance starting a www.GrandCaravanClub.com site soon because I'm thinking of getting one fer the wife. :yes:

Not difficult. Just a pain if you have fat hands. uh ohhhh...... :oops: Yeah, so I have this problem too. I took the bolts holding the fan clutch off by turning around with my rearend to the truck and taking them off without looking at the truck. It was alot easier to get my hand in that way.

The ebrake cables from the junction box to the drums have just been replaced on my truck. My E brake is still not working though. So I ordered the cable from the pedal back. I haven't even looked at it yet but Is there anything special I should know before I go to replace it this week. I take it, it goes from the pedal assembly by the kick panel underneath the carpet to the back of the cab and out. Am I going to have to remove the seat and carpet to get to it or is it easier than that? I tried searching in the archives but couldn't find any info. I guess I'm just going to break down and finally buy a stinkin Chilton's for basic info. :rotfl2: So, any tips are greatly appreciated. :D

Not difficult. Just a pain if you have fat hands. 1)Take of the fan shroud. 2)Take off four bolts holding the fan clutch on. 3)Once the fan clutch is off remove the four bolts holding the fan to the old clutch and bolt it to the new one. 4)Now put everything back on in reverse. The only two problems I ran in to were that the four first bolts were stuck on to the pulley (PB plasted, problem fixed) and the second one was that the old clutch was hard to take off the pulley (used a bar and hammer to slowly loosen it by tapping the crease in between the two and rotating. Even then I think it only took a half hour.

I'm off the list :cry:

Well, I know for a fact that the last gauge you put in was calibrated correctly. :chillin: Here's what you can do. Start your engine up. When the temp gauge indicates 180*, disconnect the wire from the temp thermister and accurately measure the resistance between the thermister tip and ground. Stick the wire back on, and repeat at 210* then at normal running temperature. Let me know what these three resistance readings are. Not going to tell you what they should be so you're not looking for a certain resistance. :D Right, I'll get it done probably this weekend or early next week and let you know. Thanks Don. Jeff, I tried pulling the plastic cover off and moving the needle back by hand on an earlier gauge and all it did was move back toward the hot zone. I don't want to mess with the new one because Don has it working correctly for sure. Don, when you say the thermister tip, you mean the wire going to my temp sender on the head right?

Actually it's not a million, (probably like only two left :oops: ) Sorry, I have a knack for being dramatical. So, any idea on how I would go about checking for open loops or grounding issues. I'm sorry, I'm electrically illeterate. Edit: And a horrible speller. :D

Well I changed my temp gauge today with one that was recalibrated hoping that it would read somewhere close to 210* because that's what my engine is running at. However after swapping it out it still reads close to the red zone. Couple things. 1)This is the third gauge I've tried. All read at the same spot. 2)The temp sender on the back of the head has been replaced twice with brand new ones from NAPA. 3)The engine is not running as hot as the gauges have said. This has been verified with at least ten differnt laser thermometers by checking the thermostat housing and the temp right where the sensor goes into the back of the head. Both spots have always been under 210* So what are my options? 1)Try changing the temp sensor again with a differnt one from let's say Autozone or the dealer. 2)Try screwing with the needle on the gauge to get it at around 210* when the engine is hot. (Does anyone know how to do this because I tried but couldn't figure out how to "adjust" the needle.) 3)Live with the fact that the engine temp is great (thank the Gods) and that any stinkin gauge I put in will always run extremely close to the RED ZONE, because this God forsaken truck has about One million electrical problems. (I'm really not as upset as I sound, just frustrated that the darn thing doesn't work like it should.) Or does anyone else have any bright ideas? And NO, lighting the truck on fire is not an option. :brows:

Store the extra parts you were going to get rid of under the deck and put the lattis up to cover up the mess. That way if you end up needing any of the crap you were going to junk it'll be right under the grill. :D

My new one from NAPA doesn't spin 5 times when cold. I'll check it tommorow morning when it's cold , but I don't think it even goes around once.

Mine was the same.

I believe the fan is harder to move when it gets hotter. I just did mine and while their is a little more resistance on the new one when it gets hot .It isn't much differnt than the old one I pulled out. Anyway, let the engine get hot and see if it's any tighter that way.

CONGRATS!!!! Logan is now June 5ths official reason to Drink Pina Colada's Day

This is an MJ. If I remember correctly it's from CW's 88. I have two more sending units in the shed if you want differnt angles.

I just bought mine from them, cost me $120 shipped to my door. Nice looking steel tank, even has the 'tray' on the inside that the fuel pump goes into, so when your low on gas it doesn't starve the pump. :D Yep, I'm an idiot $50+$70=$120 I just can't add :D

Everyone is going to agree with Eagle. Don't start spending money till the truck won't start or gives you drivability problems.

Look out the window and just keep shooting the pellet gun. They'll get the point after a while and find somewhere else to hang out. Plus, I didn't think skunks were supposed to be out during the day? Oh, don't use a really strong pellet gun if you don't wanna kill em. Edit: You know I get em my backyard all the time because we're the only house in the neighborhood that has a forrest growing back there. Everybody else chopped down all their trees. I get skunks, moles, voles, cats, squirells, rabbits, and all kinds of other crap. My Golden Retriever takes care of most of the problems in the yard. I've used the BB gun that shoots out the little rubber balls. It annoys them enough with the barking of my dog that they usually jet. My neighbor on the other hand had one skunk in her yard, called the cops, and they showed up, got clearance from someone on the radio, and shot the skunk. Bagged it, and threw it in the cruiser and got rid of it somewhere.

Hey XJ Maki, is that Tomken's rear bumper on your truck?

:jump: Allright, duece, you won the POSTER OF THE MONTH award! What are you going to do now? :rotfl2: By the way, who guessed the correct date? I'm too lazy to reread the thread for the winner.

Hey hornbrod. Does that bung already have threads in there so you can just screw the temp sensor in?

Between the two, Motion. The Rusty's is cheaper for a reason. Ever heard the line "You get what you pay for." Run a search for Rusty's and Motion on this forum and see what people have said about both.

Ebay has the 23.5 gallon for $50 from radiator express. Only bug is that they charge $70 shipping in the continental US. So....$150 I got a friend to get me a wholesale price from a supplier here in PA. Wholesale price $174 NAPA sells em for almost $300 :eek: That's what they told me a couple of months ago. I just had a used 16 or 18 gallon shipped here from VA or NC I think. The shipping was $14 bucks So if you can ship em from under $20, you could sell em for maybe $100 as a "good" price. I don't know if you're gonna make any money though.