Chico

OKOKOKOKOKOKOKOK, here it comes :D NOOOOO, BAAASTARD! :cry: Godforsaken thumb :rant:

You got it Captain! I'll let you know how it works out then :D :cheers:

I used bubblegum and superglue. Haven't sunk yet.

That's not an adjustment, just a plastic post, part of the housing that the meter windings are wrapped around. In Chico's case I do not think there is anything wrong with his temp gauges since they are all reading approximately the same. I think he should try the new wire trick first: Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)? Donnie baby, I can run anything you want me too, but can you tell me which one connecter A is. Is it the one where the wire is running from the temp sender to the firewall?

All three are connected and brand new. And actually the sending unit for the gauge has been replaced 3 times now to see if I can get a decent reading on the gauge. The truck is not running hot. (200-205* at the thermostat housing) 3 differnt clusters have been used. 2 differnt gauges have been tried. (One checked/calibrated by Hornbrod) So the problem seems to excist somewhere in the wiring between the sending unit on the back of the head by the valve cover and the actual gauge. Hence a friend said that he believes you can actually buy something so whatever voltage is going thru that wire to the gauge can be changed to be a differnt voltage so my gauge will read correctly. Does my gauge need to read correctly? Not really. But it's driving me nuts that something so simple does not work correctly and it's become somewhat of an obsession to corect the false readout of that gauge.

I'll start looking for you. Also go to www.lunghd.com . It has an amazing amount of information on XJ/MJ's. Usually Wildman posts it up but the guy that wrote the stuff on there covered a huge amount of tech. Good luck :cheers:

And what did you do to "fix" the problem. Back to trying to get the gauge to read right. Anybody ever heard of a resistor that you physically attach to the wire to get the electrical reading to change? Someone here at home brought it up saying it might cure the wrong reading.

I just skimmed the thread, but if you do the rear main seal there is a post with directions on this site that goes step by step to do it the way Eagle said. I actually think it's a link to another site. If I have time I'll look for you but try searching and you should come up with it.

Yep, got everything back together but the gauge says I'm still runnung hot. I'm going to have to check it tommorow with a laser thermometer. Is it possible the cap they sent me doesn't let coolant into the plastic reservoir bottle because I can't see or feel any going in there?

The coolant system is flushed. I cheated. Took it to Valvoline because I didn't trust myself and figured their machine would do a better job than my garden hose.(And the fact I didn't want to shoot antifreeze all over my front lawn.) :wall: I made sure I went when my friend was working so I'd know the job was done right.You should have seen the crap coming out. And that's after the fact that when I changed the thermostat in the winter I tried to drain as much coolant out as possible and refill it. So, back at the house, engine is still running at 215*-220. Of course it's not under pressure because of the faulty cap on the plastic tank and my buddy said that I was loosing pressure at the hose that goes into the side of the plastic tank. Hopefully all new hoses and aluminum tank will remedy this. I pulled all the old hoses off to replace them with new ones. The two that went into my heater core were impossible to pull off. They were factory original so I don't know if they were glued on or melted on from 20 years of use. Ended up splitting and cutting them off with a sharp blade. Got all my new hoses, clamps, heater control valve, tee, aluminum tank, and resorvoir tank out. Now I can't remember how it all goes back together :wall:

If you mean puuting the gear indicator onto yuur new cluster, it's easy. Take it off your old one, cut the tach on the new one and screw it in.It's connected to a cable that clips to your steering culumn. You're going to have to cut a square on the bottom of the new cluster to put the cable thru. I wouldn't do it again though. I'm actually changing it to a set-up Hornbrod has. The reason being is that the cable and clip are 20 years old and don't read the right gear ever because they've been played around with so much. I guess you could replace the cable and clip, but I like how Hornbrod's looks cleaner. Here's Hornbrod's pic [/url]

Exactly like BLHTAZ said but I sent the MOROSO tank back and am using the MAC's one from this thread http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10708

Well, got all the parts in. Had to go pick up a resorvoir tank and some rubber hose. From Napa Overflow tank=$10.00 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7304514&Description=Radiator+Coolant+Reservoir+-+Universal I also bought about 15 feet of 3/8" rubber hose. I have no idea how much I'll need but I'll measure it when I do it. I used PIKE's link. Guess where the overflow bottle was made. :mad:

walk away, too much hassle w/ the DMV.

Yeah, I'm afraid of having the same problem. I wonder how hard it would be to do with the engine still in the truck.... I'll take a look at it later.

Plug n play. You might want to have extra o-rings around in case any of the ones they send you are deffective (one was on mine ) and orings for where the fuel rail goes into the lines. Mine started leaking with all the moving around. Edit: And I really wish you guys would quit fighting. It's getting old quick.

Got it. Thanks MV :cheers:

You mean instead of putting the heater on full blast?

Yup CW, got that. I read to get it to run thru that valve I'm going to have to have the heater on full blast. Here's my plan of action because I want to make sure I get all the crap outta the system. 1)Attach the T-fitting in the heater hose that runs into the heater core. 2) Drain fluid out of my plastic tank, then add Prestone Coolant flush sollution. 3)Close everything up and run the engine till it hits operating temperature to loosen up all the crap in the system that's accumilated after 20 years. 4) Let the coolant cool back down a bit. 5)Attach my garden hose to the T-fitting on my heater hose. 6)Turn on the garden hose with the cap off my plastic tank. 7) Turn on the engine with the heater on full blast and watch crap fly out of my tank. 8) Once all that comes out is clear clean water, shut off the truck and then the hose. 9)Disconnect both upper and lower radiator hoses and let water drain from the system. 10)Send water from the upper radiator hose thru to bottom to make sure the radiator has a good flow. 11) At this point I'm replacing my heater hoses, heater valve, plastic tank will be replaced by an aluminum one with another hose being run to a resorvoir tank (like Eagle's and PIKE.) converting me to an open system. 12)Zip evrything back up and add 50/50 mix. So, anyone think I should do anything else or do things differntly to make sure there is nothing bad (rust, corrosion, bubblegum) left in the system to hinder the flow of coolant?

What 's the best way to flush the coolant passages going thru the engine to make sure absolutely nothing is in there?

No problem.... Thats just her way of trying to get that ring from me... ;) Just do what I did. Get her the rock and everytime she brings up the wedding date thing go, "yeah sure honey, but it's gonna have to wait till next week. I gotta go fix the truck right now!" :D

Damn it people start voting, we're behind 39 votes and loosing to Erin :rotfl2:

I voted, but what up with the single mom thing? Sorry, it's really none of my bussiness :oops:

That looks like an ignition coil for a wrangler. This is what a MAT sensor looks like. I got mine from BLHTAZ.

Hey in the melee, Did ya ever get this fixed bra?