Chico

I didn't drain the coolant when I did mine. I saw that too on alldata but after doing the job I couldn't figure out why they wrote that. :nuts:

Paging Dr. Eagle..... Paging Dr. Pete...... You're now wanted in surgery.

Thanks fer the reply's in my tech thread guys. I put everything back together a couple of days ago. Didn't screw with the freeze plugs. Temperture came down from a max of 225 to to 219. I went ahead and wired my electric fan to a switch inside the cab. Hornbrod posted this diagram up a while ago and I just followed it. http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm The temp with the fan on fulltime now runs at 200-210 at the thermostat housing. I still have to borrow someone elses laser thermometer to verify that mine's correct. Here's the kicker. If I turn on my HVAC on hi on any setting (like defrost) with the lever on cold or hot the temp comes down to a perfect 201* at the thermostat housing showing a perfect 210* at my gauge. Now I understand that kicking the heat on full blast will bring my engine temp down but is the same true for the cold setting and does anyone know how that works? It's not really a problem to run my fan on full blast and the HVAC controls to keep my temps down, just strange that everything is brand new in the cooling system and I have to do this much to keep the engine cool :nuts:

Yep...that is the way to go. I met him when he lived here in FL and set up the deal for us. He is now in NY, but still offers the deal for any Jeeper that knows how it works. It doesn't have to be a Jeep injector purchase either. If you have another vehicle that he offers injectors for, the discount code should still work from what I understand. :cheers: Brent I think you should post something like this post with all the info in the DIY section since this question comes up often with new members that way we can just post up the response when it comes up again. I also think you should start getting a commision :D

Eagle, do you need the mini SD card and adapter or a micro one? I have an extra mini card (1.0 GB) and adapter you can have but it's for a phone I had two years ago. I know the newer ones are smaller than mine.

I think I have the same one. I had to buy a card that fits into another card that goes into my laptop. I also take a picture, save it, and then send that picture to my email. Then I open up my email, save that picture to my documents and load it to photobucket and then on here.

Gosh I hope so Chico! :D :cheers: I see my mistake :oops: I meant oil in my air filter. I'm :popcorn: because I had my CTS changed and it didn't make a differnce in my idle. Although the moron who did it wrapped that white tape around the threads. (I just noticed it when I had my front end off). Maybe that's messing up the signal. I'll have to check the resistance now. Thanks for the info brig.

I like Cannon, but if the one you have up there is good and waterproof I'd get it.

I like em. Did you say you got headlights from Motion? How do you like em. Are they significantly better than stock?

WATER PUMP BOLTS There are four. 3 short 1 long I couldn't find anything at Lowe's that matched exactly but these are very close and worked for me. 3 short: Hex cap screws grade 5 USS 5/16-18 x 1 1 long: Hex cap screws grade 5 USS 5/16-18 x 1-1/2

Well then how bout your TPS. Is it new and did you try adjusting it?

You know someone might have adjusted the idle screw to bring the idle down instead of fixing it correctly by changing the IAC. I don't know what it's supposed to be set at correctly though or know how to check it.

You know, that's funny. I was actually going to PM you and asked you if you ever got this fixed. Mine idles really low too and I've replaced every sensor with a brand new part. Did you try blowing out all the ccv lines yet to make sure no air flow was restricted? Mine are all brand new but I still get a bit of oil in my oil filter because I never pulled the VC off and cleaned up the inside. When you pull the line that comes off the back of the VC at the intake mani does the idle go up?

I wanna use both because after spending $400 bucks I don't want to scratch it :D

Jim your like the man when it comes to helping ppl out and providing the research for self help. That's because Jim has Rainman like memory and has memorized all 113,432 posts on ComancheClub.com. Here's to you Jimbone :cheers: This coming from the guy who started at the last page and worked backwards thru everyone of them. Damn it man! One of us newbies had to do it. :D

Called VW tech. He says when it happens again check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark, check for fuel pressure at the rail. If you have both check for injector pulse. If no spark, check ignition coil. He says it's a common problem on VW's.

Jim your like the man when it comes to helping ppl out and providing the research for self help. That's because Jim has Rainman like memory and has memorized all 113,432 posts on ComancheClub.com. Here's to you Jimbone :cheers:

The sensor that turns your electric fan on at 217* is screwed into the radiator on a 87-90 4.0.

Went out when I got home from work and tried starting the MJ. As always -- started right up. But ... get this - ALL those diagrams of which relay is which are either wrong, or my MJ is wrong. Having found two conflicting diagrams and descriptions, I took the cowards way out and pulled all four relays, then stuck them back one-by-one until I heard the fuel pump run when I first turned the key. The one that got the fuel pump running was the one all the way to the front. I'll have to do the same thing on the '88 XJ in the morning, after it has had time to bleed off the pressure. That's strange. Mine was where the diagram shows. The only differnce is mine is an auto.

relays for 4.0

I used Tide, a broom and a garden hose on my driveway. But my driveway's not concrete and the Tide was the powder, not the liquid. Anyway it worked great and smells April fresh. :D Only problem is that the grass along my driveway is now dead and smells like ATF :oops:

This is actually a copy of my MJ project question but I thought I'd post it here too to see if get an answer. Here it is. Bloody hell, The waterpump was leaking.....somewhere. Problem was it only did it while running and of course it was somewhere underneath the pulley. So.....off with the whole front end of the truck again. All was smooth until I went to take off one of the waterpump bolts and the head snapped off. Luckily there was just enough bolt sticking out of the engine that I grabeed on with vice-grips and got it out. Bought another waterpump just to make sure the one I have wasn't defective. In the meantime I stuck a garden hose up to the small hole above and to the left of the hole for the impeller and shot water thru there to try and clean out any more gunk. All was clear and I let it sit till today but when I went out the once clear water was murky brown ( I thought it was oil in my water at first but upon closer inspection found that the "brown" wasn't really brown, more of an orangish and it was settled at the bottom. So I have a good amount of rust in the engine. 1)Is this normal? 2)Should I run more water thru it and try to remove as much as possible or leave it since it will just keep rusting? 3)Freeze plugs were brought up. I see them on the driver's side of the block. Are there any on the other side? How do you remove them? And what are the chances of removing them with the engine still in the truck? 4)What are the chances of me removing them and screwing something else up? _________________

Bloody hell, The waterpump was leaking.....somewhere. Problem was it only did it while running and of course it was somewhere underneath the pulley. So.....off with the whole front end of the truck again. All was smooth until I went to take off one of the waterpump bolts and the head snapped off. Luckily there was just enough bolt sticking out of the engine that I grabeed on with vice-grips and got it out. Bought another waterpump just to make sure the one I have wasn't defective. In the meantime I stuck a garden hose up to the small hole above and to the left of the hole for the impeller and shot water thru there to try and clean out any more gunk. All was clear and I let it sit till today but when I went out the once clear water was murky brown ( I thought it was oil in my water at first but upon closer inspection found that the "brown" wasn't really brown, more of an orangish and it was settled at the bottom. So I have a good amount of rust in the engine. 1)Is this normal? 2)Should I run more water thru it and try to remove as much as possible or leave it since it will just keep rusting? 3)Freeze plugs were brought up. I see them on the driver's side of the block. Are there any on the other side? How do you remove them? And what are the chances of removing them with the engine still in the truck? 4)What are the chances of me removing them and screwing something else up? :D