Chico

It's not that I have anything against Autozone, just that the employees at the store near me are extremely rude and seem to throw a fit everytime I ask them a question. That and I saw in Quadratech's catalog that there is like a 170 Amp alternator (don't quote me on that #) and I don't think Autozone carries anything that powerful by looking at their website. So since I doubt I'll buy it from them I feel bad asking an already rude employee for help on something that they won't be selling me anyway.

Thanks Brent :cheers:

To please do me a favor and check the temp on the metal on the outside of their thermostat housing to see if my temp is close to correct. I'm talking about hitting the metal tube that goes into the rubber hose going back to the fire wall. TIA :cheers:

I know mine works but I'd like to know if it's working at optimal condition. Does anyone know what voltage or amp it should be kicking out and how I would check it with a voltmeter. On a side note, if I go to buy a new one, what brand/amp is the best you can buy or what should I buy if I plan to later need more juice for aux lights etc.... I really don't want to go to Autozone and have them check it. Edit: On a side-side note, does anyone have a good write up on removal/installation of a new one.

The wiring harness is one assembly from the fuse block to the connector for the rear lights/fuel pump. If you're using a cherokee one try and get one with the same transmission (auto or manual). You're going to have to splice wires at the connector that I mentioned because the actual connectors are differnt. One of the wires will have to actually run to the switch on the steering culumn. So it is very possible to use a XJ one, just a pain. I know, I did it. If at all possible try to get a MJ one.

The TPS is adjustable by loosening the two small bolts that hold it on and rotating the TPS up or down. You have to have a gauge hooked up to the back of the connector to read the voltage of the differnt wires. PM if you need the info from Alldata for an automatic. However you're problem might be that your Vac lines from the VC are clogged. Take the line that runs from the back of the VC and disconnect it at the intake manifold. If your idle raises a good amount that line might just be plugged up with gunk. Blow compressed air thru it and remove your VC and clean out the ports that let the gasses escape. I'll PM you the info from Alldata for the TPS adjustment procedure or run a search on here and it's come up many times on how to do it.

The brackets from the XJ power seats will not work without modification. I have a set and tested them and they don't line up at all with the MJ bolts.

Just rum? I'm not much of a rum drinker after the last time I had it. We were wheeling in the coast mountains, camping in some hell hole of a campsite nicknamed 'little iraq' for all the empty munitions on the ground, it rained every day, and I drank 26oz of cpt morgans and wound up having a LONG next day since 9 or so of the 12 rigs carnaged major parts. So, not big on rum anymore. I don't know :dunno: , but I'll try tekilla, vodka, and wisskey over the weekend and let you know how it works out :rotfl2: And don't tell CW but if you add plenty of lime to the rum it cuts out the hangover. That and extremely spicy shrimp.

If you get Claritin get the one that says Claritin-D. Works better. P.S. Don't mix it with Rum.

OKOKOKOKOKOKOKOK, here it comes :D NOOOOO, BAAASTARD! :cry: Godforsaken thumb :rant:

You got it Captain! I'll let you know how it works out then :D :cheers:

I used bubblegum and superglue. Haven't sunk yet.

That's not an adjustment, just a plastic post, part of the housing that the meter windings are wrapped around. In Chico's case I do not think there is anything wrong with his temp gauges since they are all reading approximately the same. I think he should try the new wire trick first: Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)? Donnie baby, I can run anything you want me too, but can you tell me which one connecter A is. Is it the one where the wire is running from the temp sender to the firewall?

All three are connected and brand new. And actually the sending unit for the gauge has been replaced 3 times now to see if I can get a decent reading on the gauge. The truck is not running hot. (200-205* at the thermostat housing) 3 differnt clusters have been used. 2 differnt gauges have been tried. (One checked/calibrated by Hornbrod) So the problem seems to excist somewhere in the wiring between the sending unit on the back of the head by the valve cover and the actual gauge. Hence a friend said that he believes you can actually buy something so whatever voltage is going thru that wire to the gauge can be changed to be a differnt voltage so my gauge will read correctly. Does my gauge need to read correctly? Not really. But it's driving me nuts that something so simple does not work correctly and it's become somewhat of an obsession to corect the false readout of that gauge.

I'll start looking for you. Also go to www.lunghd.com . It has an amazing amount of information on XJ/MJ's. Usually Wildman posts it up but the guy that wrote the stuff on there covered a huge amount of tech. Good luck :cheers:

And what did you do to "fix" the problem. Back to trying to get the gauge to read right. Anybody ever heard of a resistor that you physically attach to the wire to get the electrical reading to change? Someone here at home brought it up saying it might cure the wrong reading.

I just skimmed the thread, but if you do the rear main seal there is a post with directions on this site that goes step by step to do it the way Eagle said. I actually think it's a link to another site. If I have time I'll look for you but try searching and you should come up with it.

Yep, got everything back together but the gauge says I'm still runnung hot. I'm going to have to check it tommorow with a laser thermometer. Is it possible the cap they sent me doesn't let coolant into the plastic reservoir bottle because I can't see or feel any going in there?

The coolant system is flushed. I cheated. Took it to Valvoline because I didn't trust myself and figured their machine would do a better job than my garden hose.(And the fact I didn't want to shoot antifreeze all over my front lawn.) :wall: I made sure I went when my friend was working so I'd know the job was done right.You should have seen the crap coming out. And that's after the fact that when I changed the thermostat in the winter I tried to drain as much coolant out as possible and refill it. So, back at the house, engine is still running at 215*-220. Of course it's not under pressure because of the faulty cap on the plastic tank and my buddy said that I was loosing pressure at the hose that goes into the side of the plastic tank. Hopefully all new hoses and aluminum tank will remedy this. I pulled all the old hoses off to replace them with new ones. The two that went into my heater core were impossible to pull off. They were factory original so I don't know if they were glued on or melted on from 20 years of use. Ended up splitting and cutting them off with a sharp blade. Got all my new hoses, clamps, heater control valve, tee, aluminum tank, and resorvoir tank out. Now I can't remember how it all goes back together :wall:

If you mean puuting the gear indicator onto yuur new cluster, it's easy. Take it off your old one, cut the tach on the new one and screw it in.It's connected to a cable that clips to your steering culumn. You're going to have to cut a square on the bottom of the new cluster to put the cable thru. I wouldn't do it again though. I'm actually changing it to a set-up Hornbrod has. The reason being is that the cable and clip are 20 years old and don't read the right gear ever because they've been played around with so much. I guess you could replace the cable and clip, but I like how Hornbrod's looks cleaner. Here's Hornbrod's pic [/url]

Exactly like BLHTAZ said but I sent the MOROSO tank back and am using the MAC's one from this thread http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10708

Well, got all the parts in. Had to go pick up a resorvoir tank and some rubber hose. From Napa Overflow tank=$10.00 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7304514&Description=Radiator+Coolant+Reservoir+-+Universal I also bought about 15 feet of 3/8" rubber hose. I have no idea how much I'll need but I'll measure it when I do it. I used PIKE's link. Guess where the overflow bottle was made. :mad:

walk away, too much hassle w/ the DMV.

Yeah, I'm afraid of having the same problem. I wonder how hard it would be to do with the engine still in the truck.... I'll take a look at it later.

Plug n play. You might want to have extra o-rings around in case any of the ones they send you are deffective (one was on mine ) and orings for where the fuel rail goes into the lines. Mine started leaking with all the moving around. Edit: And I really wish you guys would quit fighting. It's getting old quick.