Chico

Can I use the 97+ hoses on my 88 closed system so I can do away with that valve? Sorry to high-jack :oops:

Dumb question but I want to make sure. If your looking at the front of the engine is the water pump hose the one on the left side of the upper radiator hose coming out of the front of the engine or the right where the thermostat housing is?

I'm having issues again. What's the best way to tell that the waterpump is working correctly? I looked in the expansion tank and fluid does go in from the side hose, just not very fast. I'd call it a drizzle.

Wait, what's the $100 bucks gonna get you. Is your car totaled?

Times one million! DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER! We're gonna stop adding more problems right here :D

Yes Dave but sticking a new IAC in there is worthless without a good cleaning first. 1) Disconnect the air tube going from the airfilter to the throttle body. 2)Remove your IAC 3) I'd tell you to remove the TPS next but only if you have the means to properly adjust it when you put it back on. Run a search on here on how to adjust your TPS. 4) Clean out the throttle body, especially where the IAC goes in. 5) Buy your new IAC and plug everything back in. Then if you have any more problems we can discuss more options down the line. Question: Is the engine now running smoothly (besides the fact that it's at 3100 RPM?

Gibbs, start with the simple stuff first. 1) Is your battery in good condition? 2) If your battery cables are original, replace them. 3) If and when you buy new cables buy the negative cable from your local parts place that has the main wire running to the block and a second wire from the terminal to the fender. 4) Replace that stinking braided ground cable at the back of the block. 5) Then replace your CPS. If none of this improves your start time then we can start discussing other options. I know everyone says this is normal on our engines. Mine did the same thing. However by changing these, my 4.0 with 220,000 miles on it now starts as fast as any new car. Of course I also changed a crap load of other stuff but nothing made as much of a differnce as that damn negative cable. And that's also considering my battery is shot.

Before I forget, clean out your throttle body with throttle body cleaner. You probably loosened up the carbon buildup with the starter fluid and it's jammin up where the sensors go.

Then your IAC is probably shot. Change it out for a new one. Here's a pic. It's the one on the left.

I disconected the line at the fuel filter and 2 oz of gas might have come out. Then again I had very little gas in the tank to begin with. Just put some bucket underneath to catch any thing that comes out.

My two guesses are that the IAC is sticking or the arm on your throttle body is. Where did you spray the starter fluid? In the throttle body? Checkfirst to see if the arm is sticking. If it's not then check the IAC. If you look at the throttle body from the front there's two sensors attached. It's the one with a diamond shaped backing plate up against the throttle body. Don't bother trying to clean it. Go pick up a new one at the auto parts store. It's listed as either IAC, iddle stepper motor, or idle air control valve. If the throttle arm is sticking lube it up with PB blaster.

Damn it man. Get out while you still can. This club is like the mob. Once you're in you can never get out. It's like a bad drug. You just keep needing and needing it. Like having a red headed stepchild, you'd have no problem trading yer wife in. And about the couch, we're sorry. We'll still trying to collect yearly dues to get it replaced. Please send unmarked bills in small denominations to wahoosteeler@hotmail.com for the anual premium of $113.95. :D

Personally I like the dog running after it in the end :D

You know Ihad always gotten name brand ones for my other cars, but when I bought the Comanche they came with Le Mans ( I think they were Wal-mart) and they did fantastic in snow, ice, mud, and rain, and were quiet too. I was surprised and impressed.

If you're going for the 31x10.5x15 on stock rims just get the WJ (I think) lower control arms that have the bend in em or do like MV says and adjust the steering stops.

Cursing some more usually does it fer me.

You can fit 31" tires with a couple little issues. Decide how wide you want em and everyone will tell you what you need. The tires in my avatar are 31x10.5x15. (No rubbing on the lower control arms but they're ripping up my front fenders due to backspacing on the rims.)

PM sent homey :D

If you use the XJ interior harnes in the MJ you're going to have to start cutting and splicing wires at the connector that goes back the the taillights and fuel pump. The connector is differnt.

Yeah, I started playing with this last night again. Changed out the sensor for another one fom Autozone to see if it would make any differnce at all. Nothing. Still reads high. Don, do you have a whole other cluster with a cable driven speedo I can buy from you. I vaguely remember my temp gauge working correctly on the second cluster I had in there. It's oil gauge was shot but the temp worked right. I made the mistake of letting my two year old work on it with my drill :roll: . After I change it out if I still get a whacked reading I'll start ripping the harness apart and figuring out what's wrong. I'm gonna get this stinkin gauge to work if it kills me :wall: Then I'll start working on the dumb crap like you know, brakes, tierods, engine :rotfl2:

Thanks fer the links guys. I called Advance Auto yesterday. They'll have it in store in two days. $16.84 after tax. Napa's was in the $30.00 range.

$4650. 3 hours 36 minutes left.

Well, pulled the new defective cable out. Put a new one in. Started adjusting it under the truck. After about 10 tries the rear wheels started locking up again and the cables wold not release. Took the cable out again to find out that not only was it not passing thru the housing again but the actual housing split where the cable was unraveling itself. It's official. I'm done with NAPA parking brake cables. :headpop:

Is this what's considered a 9"axle? There's one close to me for sale for $250 with 4.10 gears. It's outta an explorer. Would it fit under the Comanche with minimal fuss and do ya think it's reasonably priced? It has 31 spline axles and is a non-posi and is out of a 1999 ford model year.

It's easy to spend $10,000 if you're replacing everything that's twenty years old and PAYING someone to do it for you. Mechanics labor rates are high now. Lowest I've seen is $55. Highest is $110 an hour. I bet you the $10,000 is from initial purchase price of the vehicle, normal part replacement and the money he had to pay a mechanic to do it. Like I replaced my rear brakes and parking brake lines. I got an estimate from two local shops that wanted between $600-$750 for parts and labor. And that didn't even include the actual drums because mine were fine. I ended up doing it myself and saved a lot of money on my car insurance. :D