Chico

Hey Pat, it's wednesday. I don't wanna harrass ya man but the suspense is killing us :D

Oh good, so it's either 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 :rotfl2:

Well, found the problem. After taking everything apart in the rear and verifing that it matched those pictures and making sure the rear cables weren't binding up I moved on to the front cable. Jeff the line wasn't pinched under the bracket. Ends up the front cable is binding up inside the sheath. I disconnected it from the junction block, pulled it back thru the cab and tried to move it by hand. No dice. Looks like I'm going back to the store to get a new one. I'm seriously contemplating never returning to the local auto parts stores. It seems half the crap I've bought at either NAPA or Autozone has either been defective or the wrong part alltogether. :mad:

Sounds good. Thanks bud, I'll let you know what happens :thumbsup:

No, I'm driving it. I'm gonna take the drums apart sometime this week and really look at it well. I think I just messed it up some how. It's not draging right now because I manually released the parking brake from underneath the truck. I'll let you guys know where I goofed and take pictures.

So Don, I was reading the gauge wrong, On the gauge 180*=2320 ohms 210*=179.1 ohms running temp=119.5 ohms I had it verified by someone who knows what they're doing. So I guess the sensors are calibrated wrong right? Like you said, guess I'll get one from Taz.

You know those look great. What progran are you guys using?

Yup. I think Jaekl hit this one on the nose. I think it's the spring in the drums. I'm gonna take it apart again to looksie............

Here, let me add this too. After I press the pedal down. Then release the e-brake it pops back up but there is 2-3" of play till the top. That is until I get back under the truck and pull on the cable coming from the cab, and then the pedal goes all the way to the top and there is no play. I'm leaning toward the pedal itself is jacked. Opinions?

I just replaced all three cables associated with the parking brake. At the same time I replaced the shoes, hardware and cylinders in the back since I had the drums apart. Everything worked fine yesterday. Today I go to leave my driveway (truck's facing a down ward slope) pull my e-brake off, throw it in drive and notice that without touching the gas the car would not roll down the hill. (Thought the parking brake was still on, but it wasn't) Ends up the back tires were locked up. I adjusted the nut at the junction box to give the e-brake lines more slack. It worked. Drove a while, put the ebrake on, let it go again, and the same thing happened. Got back under the truck, pulled on the cable coming from the cab and the ebrake let go. So in conclusion the e-brake is not working correctly when I pull the lever. It's not pulling the cables that go to the wheels back off the drums. 1)Is there suppose to be a spring at the junction box to pull the cables back? (There wasn't one there when I took the old ones off.) 2)Anybody got an idea where I goofed this up? (or is the new cab cable faulty) 2)

12-14 mpg. In town, 31x10.5x15, no lift 4.0 355 gears. Couldn't tell you highway. Never gotten the truck on a good long run. Oh 220,000 miles on the engine.

Yeah I'm gonna have to play with it some more tomorrow. It's too dark now and I can't see a thing a thing. Plus I really don't think I'm reading it correctly. I'm just giving out the numbers that are popping up on the screen.

I really hope that they catch the SOB blowfish that did this to you :rant:

Donnie, this was resistance test #2 On the gauge 180*=.232 210*=179.1 runing temp=119.5

Ok, on the gauge 180* =.205 210* =171.1 running temp =119.5 I'll check them again in an hour to make sure I get numbers close to that to make sure I didn't mess it up.

Stick the negative on the sensor brass case; that's the ground conductor. You didn't wrap the threads with an insulator like teflon tape when you installed it did ya? Nope, didnt use teflon tape. So to get this staight. At 180 I'm gonna pull the wire. Touch the positive to the tip if the sender and the negative to the brass base? Then, I'm going to repeat at 210 and at running temp? Did I get it right?

Ok tip of the sensor was 36 to 47 depending where I stuck the negative to on the ground braid.

Well, I know for a fact that the last gauge you put in was calibrated correctly. :chillin: Here's what you can do. Start your engine up. When the temp gauge indicates 180*, disconnect the wire from the temp thermister and accurately measure the resistance between the thermister tip and ground. Stick the wire back on, and repeat at 210* then at normal running temperature. Let me know what these three resistance readings are. Not going to tell you what they should be so you're not looking for a certain resistance. :D Yeah, uhhh Donnie. I'm getting a big fat 0 at all three temps, am I doing something wrong? You did say to measure the resistance at the wire right, or am I actually suppose to measure the tip of the sensor coming outta the head? Edit: I measured at the tip of the sensor coming outta the head and at running temp it fluctuates between 36 and 47 :nuts:

Open air elements do in fact add horsepower and torque. However for our trucks they're not worth the money. Here's the reason. The small percentage that they add (3%-7%) is not noticeable until you hit about 65 MPH. Nobody in this club really ventures beyond this speed in our trucks because we don't use them as race cars. Even then the only real way to take advantage of the gains would be to ram cold air either through a hood scoop or with plumbing that hits the filter coming from the bottom of the truck. Actually using it in our trucks really hurts both HP and torque due to the fact that the system is sucking in hot air out of the engine bay which we all know is hotter than a lot of other car's engine bays. So unless you plan on making a street comanche running a Hemi don't bother with either one because you'll actually do more hurt than good. I've run K&N sysytems in VW's and took them all to get tested on Dyno's and these are the results I got. Also if you do run it I would relocate the filter over to where the battery sits to get it as far away from the manifold as possible and build some kind of wall around it to seperate it from the engine bay heat. Edit: Hornbrod's stroker or a supercharged engine or turbo would be a great candidate for this system but you also have to add a free-flowing exhaust to fully gain the advantages of it. (Actually I just read Adam's post, so yeah like he said)

I think you can take the locks out, take them to a locksmith and they should be able to make you a new key.

Yeah, this site rocks. And the good news is next year due to inflation, the economy, politics, the price of gas, the positioning of the solar system,and the mark up on can cozies our membership dues will only be $103.45 per year. Credit cards and money orders accepted gladly. Sorry, no personal checks. Please PM Pete your bankcard numbers or paypal addies pronto. We still gotta pay for last months beer bill, not to mention the tan couch the new guys keep falling asleep on is starting to smell like poo. We could sure use a new one.

JT, I looked up the article I was thinking about but like they said it was basically rebuilt with stronger parts.

nope not jeff, I met the guy while I was trail guiding there. His rig is set up very nice with ox lockers and regeared to 4.56s I believe. Yes but did you give him a card? :D

You know i've reread the whole post and realized nobody said anything about salt. The best beer when it's over 89* is a ice cold Corona that's temperature is between 33*-35* with a thin wedge of lime and SALT. It will cure any thirst. Try it next time you come in from the heat, but it's gotta be at that temp :cheers:

Did everyone see the picture of #24 over in classifieds. TheJeepNut owns it. If you check out the pictures in his flicker account you'll see the plaque on the dash. The interior looks nice.