Chico

Whatever happened to that one guy on here that had the roof chopped off his?

wEll NOW THat you wrote all that , WHAt the heck I'm I suppose to post UP IN the tecH SECtioN. I have absolutely NOTHING else to write AboUT now. OH. fO the love of GAWD, wHAT should I Do? THAt's it! my life is over .I"M JUMPING OFF my por.... crap. I think I twisted my ankle. DOES anyone know what will fix this? My ankle I mean.

I agree times one thousand four hundred thirty two!

Ty in the engine bay on the fire wall, inbetween the two connecters there's a bolt. I can'tremember the size, but you need a deep socket, a universal pivoting joint and an extension to make your life easy. The two sides (inside and out ) will seperate. Then there's two screws caddycorner to each other that you undo and both sides will pop out. Good luck

I really like the bar B-boy. The only thing I would change if it were on my truck would be to take the two bars that go toward the back of the cab and somehow cut and reweld them so they would go toward the side of the bed more or get bolted to the tops of wheel wells. And only because I constantly haul crap in mine and I think that set-up would make me lose a lot of space. Besides that, looks great and good luck :D

Man , I love those push bars. I'm so coppying you guys and getting one soon. Gongrats on gettin back on the road Pat.

First go with the KBB blue book value. Then forget what he's done externally to the truck since you don't like it anyway and it means crap to you. Next check his mechanical records, either homebrewed or done by a "professional" . Once we see all this and pics we can give you a better idea on price. Ask how old the RE lift kit is and ask for receipts. If it's newer (less than a year old) I'd say that bumps the price up $500. Older and just fugettaboutit. Don't let him add money for the rims and bumpers since your gonna change em anyway. Let's see some pics and what mileage he's got.

Good eye Maddzzy. Right, now somebody buy Jeepco a plane ticket and have him fly out there and haggle the price down to $2.37. Eagle got it. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, WE HAVE ANOTHER IDIOT! :D

Well if that your cherokee in your avatar I'm sure you already know about any mechanical problems jeeps can have. Then if you have time, start at the latest tech thread and read backwards to the beginning of 2006. You'll find almost evrything that you need to look out for. Don't laugh, I'm being serious. I did it.

First off, I'm already pissed off at the movie. The sign on his upper right arm is NOT SUPPOSE TO BE THERE! that should be hidden on his inner forearm, covered so no one can see it. Man is the master and Storm Shadow going to get pissed off. Second Sgt. Slaughter isn't even a real GI Joe. Please don't ask me to elaborate or I'm actually gonna have to dust off the comic collection and reread every friggin issue to remember why I'm saying this :rotfl2:

Let's just say I blow the whole engine because I'm driving the truck 75 MPH for 10 hours straight and it's never seen more than 20 miles straight at a time while I've owned it. I GOTTA DRIVE 612 MILES EACH WAY. I break down right outside the badlands. I would not try to replace my engine on the shoulder of the highway and I don't think AAA covers more than 100 miles even if ya got the plus membership. So unless Wade or Pat throws an extra 4.0 in the back of their bed, I would probably just drop it off at the local yahoo so he could rip me off. NOT. Hence the trailer from PA to the badlands just to be safe. Now, when I finally get around to dropping a remanufactured engine in the son o gun. I'll drive from South Beach in Miami to Portland, no worries. But not with my engine that has 200 some thousand miles and was not takin care of for the last 20 years. Plus with my luck I'd bring 223 differnt tools with me and the only one i would need wouldn't be in the tool box :eek:

I would trailer it. Especially since your taking your kid. Always better to be safe than sorry. As for my situation I'm still gettin 10 mpg. One of these days I'll post up a project section on every thing I've replaced on my truck and what I still have to get done. I would also trailer it just in case just to be safe, but don't have anything to tow with or a trailer so I'd probably rent something adding to my bill. Remember I'll be on the road 10 to twelve hours each way which means 3 meals times 3 to 4 days. Restaurants are expensive nowadays. I should know I own one. $200 bucks includes tent fees and hotel rooms in case we need to stop for some reason. I forgot, someone will probably come with me. And I'd love to have a daily driver that I can take off road when I want, but because of work I don't have the luxury of breaking down somewhere in flat but Ohio, waiting for a tow truck, having him rip me off and then trying to find a mechanic that will rip me off and probably not even know what a Comanche is. But, just to be optimistic, I will do my darndest to get in gear and somehow get everything done by July to make it. Everybody else, GOOD LUCK & HAPPY HUNTING!

Can't go this year. I just figured out the math. 612 miles from my house with the MJ getting 10 MPG is about 61 gallons of gas at 3.25 equals $200 times two ways, equals $400 plus $200 on fees and lodging plus $180 on food, plus $20 on rum plus who know what else? (Are there any casinos or strip joints on the way? :D ) Brings my grand total to about $1000 :eek: not counting any parts I break along the way or wheeling. I should probably spend that on the lift anyways this year. BUUUT, if you guys are still around next year, I should be ready and will definately see you there :thumbsup: Hey, to all going. Good luck, have fun, and may the force be wit ya!!!!

Sorry, but you are wrong. The back of the title form is a legal transfer of ownership document. Once the name of a buyer is filled in and the seller signs and dates it, that is a legal document that says ownership has been transferred to the person listed as the buyer. (In this case, the aforementioned "moron," although in this case he's really not a moron because he didn't do anything wrong.) The fact that the transfer of ownership has not been recorded at the DMV does not make it invalid, "wrong," or nonexistent. Let's say the original owner (the "seller" on the title form) were to show up at the moron's house and try to take the MJ back. The moron calls the cops. The cops say "Who owns the vehicle?" The seller says "I do." The moron shows them the title form, dated 8 months ago, with the seller's signature that he sold the truck to the moron. Who do you think the cops are going to say owns the truck? I think Brg lives in PA ,where I'm not sure but I believe you have to get it notarized or it doesn't mean squat. That might mean that the "moron" would get screwed in PA unless it was notarized. Maybe that's why BRG thinks that . :dunno: Edit:sorry didnt read the rest of the post. :oops:

My interior harness is outta a cherokee of the same year. It has the harnesses for the lights. I think the comanches also have the harness but not sure. Jt got me the lights outta a junkyard that I think he got out of a cherokee.

Thanks Horny, I'll try it 2morrow

BUyiTBuYITBUYitItbUyBUYit. Ifyoubuyittheywillcome

If you have a center console you can cut it so it tucks under, around the seat mount down the middle. You and cut the rear so it removes also. I did this with my XJ and it worked great. There is some good heat shields out there aftermarket, search and find exactly what you need. Some mount outside and others inside. Dynomat is great for sound. Ya I think when I go to restore my interior I'll POR 15 the inside. Then Dynamat it. Then lay vinyl over that with some kind of drain so I can hose off the inside. And finally I'm just gonna pay some one to make me custom carpet that is removable in sections and made of space age fibers that can be hosed down or just thrown in the laundrymat washers. And on top of all of it I'm going to Wally-world and picking up a pair of floormats with either the Tazmanian devil, yosemite sam, or the outline of that chick you see on trucker's mud flaps. All in all I'll end up spending more on the dang floor than I did on the truck :rotfl2:

Well considering the fact that the only thing I had ever done to a car before this little escapade we call a Comanche was change the oil and tires, in August of 2007 I would have told you exasperating and extremely difficult. It only took me 106 hours with no directions and a screwdriver and vicegrips for tools. However with basic mechanical skills, a magic marker and some masking tape I think the job would really only take 4-6 hours to do the WHOLE harness inside and out. The only differnce between the two is a plug that goes to the taillights and fuel pump is differnt and you have to cut, splice and figure out what goes where. I couldn't tell you for sure though because my whole harness caught on fire and melted together into one big gooey clump. In other words, find an MJ one. It will be easier :D

You just don't understand how the courtesy lights work. The door switch isn't a switched power lead, it's a switched ground. The wire(s) to the interior lights are always hot, and opening the door just closes the ground leg to complete the circuit. Ok, I undertand the concept now. My question is now this. I have three wires coming out of the harness. One is pink. One is black. One is black/white tracer. When I put a test light to any of the three wires with the key off or on but the MJ off I get no power at any of them. It doesn't matter if I turn the headlight switch cw or ccw or if I open or close the door. However if I start the truck, all of a sudden I get power to my black wire which I believe is the ground. At this point I connect my two wire light bulb. One wire goes to the black wire (ground which has power :nuts:) and the other wire goes to either of the other wires (pink or black/white tracer) and my light bulb turns on. However it never shuts off, even if I turn my headlight switch or close the door. The headlight switch and door switches work because I can control my underdash lights just fine. I just want to be able to turn my interior lights on and off with my headlight switch like I do with my underdash lights. WHAT AM I MESSING UP?

I like the idea of vinyl floor for clean up purposes. Has anybody ever thought of getting carpet like Wranglers have that are removable, washable and come in seperate parts. I think if someone came up with that kit for our trucks that would be the B.O.M.B

Poyfectly man, gracias. I told you on the bicker post the other night but you must have missed it. By the way did you ever get the money cause for some reason I have an xtra $10 in my account I think.

Well it's no nothing volts at the yellow wire which I don't have. So I suppose your yellow is my black/white tracer which is getting no volts anyway and neither is the pink. The wiring is JACKED. I'm running new wires tommorow. Thanks fer all the help guys :D

well, my black wire is hot, but only when the car is turned on. Obviously I jacked something when I replaced my harness with a cherokee one. It seems to be the only thing I messed up though. So I guess I'm gonna run new wires. Now should splice new wires from my under dash lights that work perfectly, or should I connect them to the fuse box somehow, or does anybody have a better idea?

Any electrical genius, I need help. How do I hook up interior lights that have two wires coming out, to the harness that has 3 wires on it. One wire is always hot on the harness. I'd like to be able to turn them on/off with the headlight switch knob. I tried last night. I can get em to light up but can't get em to turn off with either the headlight switch or the door switch. Oh by the way the hot wire on the harness is black, not the pink one. Is that supposed to be that way?