johnr

when I went to the BMV to transfer the truck in my name the clerk, after reading the bill of sale said this paper work is all wrong. I jumped up thinking the guy who sold it to me was up to something, I asked her what was wrong and she said Jeep dose not make pickup trucks. luckily I parked right in front of the window.

Comanche owners are one big family. nice work jimoshel :thumbsup:

the XJ seats would be my only choise but I don't think they will bolt right in. you'll need to swap out the mounting brackets. there is an awesome how to thread on here on how to do it

m parts guy was able to find the 105 alt that was a direct fit to the factory one with no mods

:popcorn:well

bottom photo. I'm pretty sure the brown plug it the washer pump. the single plug in the center, this is one that I have no home for either

thanks

i have an 87 mj with a 2.5 liter. the alt just died so i would like to up grade with something that has more amp output. what options do i have?

i have a spartan lunch box locker in the front. if you still have the disco axle you will never know you have it in two wheel drive. in four wheel both wheels bight on everything. they will take you where you want to go :rock on:

complete shot in the dark. i had fuel pressure problem. it was only putting out 12 psi. ok no problem its the fuel pump. bought one, took down the tank (just because) pulled out the sending unit to find that the short piece of rubber fuel line that ran from the pump to the hard line on the out side was almost completely disintagrated and was more like a sprinkler than a hose . i replaced the hose & the pump problem solved. to check the fuel line pressuer i put a gauge inline just in front of the filter. i can't remember if i could not find the shrader valve or i just did not have one but anyhow i hooked it up statred the truck and it was pretty obvious that there was low pressure.

congrats Marcel, great stories

:popcorn: nice job. we will get used to it

sorry to here you won't be out this weekend. i know i can't go to dover so maybe will see you in november. this weekend will be intresting. there could be a crap load of people out there, at least on saturday theres a swap meet it its not raining to hard. but if its raining to hard some might go home :D

welcome

sweet, then my attentions can be diverted to other more fruitful upgrades. dose the dakota steering box have merit should i break or wear out the stock one?

its a rubicon express flex. came with front coil springs, adj lowers and adj track bar. the rear i used a 3" leaf pack from hell creek + 1" lift shackles from jcr and RE shocks all around. the bump stops are hocky pucks in the front and 2 x 3 steel tube extentions in the rear. also 8.8 rear end spring under. this is my first vehicle that i have ever driven lifted. perhaps this is the nature of the beast?

after i lifted the truck and put the larger tires on it ( 3.5" lift & 32x11.5x15 tires) the steering is not as crisp as the stock ride. i am not having any bad things happening but it just seems a little squishy for the lack of a better discription. its been sugjested that instaling a steering gear box from a durango and a v8 zy tie rod will help this? dose this sound right and if so why?

so what is ZDDP anyhow and what will happen with out it?. i went out to the walmart today looking for oil for my daughters car she has a 99 vw jetta and i looked at all the lables its true mobil 1 is the only oil that had that rating on it. her engin also needs it

American Petroleum Institute Motor Oil Guide Which oil is right for you? The current and previous API Service Categories are listed below. Vehicle owners should refer to their owner's manuals before consulting these charts. Oils may have more than one performance level. For automotive gasoline engines, the latest engine oil service category includes the performance properties of each earlier category. If an automotive owner's manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will provide full protection. For diesel engines, the latest category usually - but not always - includes the performance properties of an earlier category. Gasoline Engines Category Status Service SM Current For all automotive engines presently in use. Introduced November 30, 2004. SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistence, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving. SL Current For 2004 and older automotive engines. SJ Current For 2001 and older automotive engines. SH Obsolete For 1996 and older engines. Valid when preceded by current C categories. SG Obsolete For 1993 and older engines. SF Obsolete For 1988 and older engines. SE Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines build after 1979. SD Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines build after 1971. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SC Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines build after 1967. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SB Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines build after 1963. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. SA Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines build after 1930. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm. Note: API intentionally omitted SI and SK from the sequence of categories. For more information about API's Engine Oil Program, visit our web site at http://www.api.org/eolcs. Diesel Engines Category Status Service CI-4 Current Introduced September 5, 2002. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 2004 exhaust emission standards implemented in 2002. CI-4 oils are formulated to sustain engine durability where exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is used and are intended for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, and CH-4 oils. CH-4 Current Introduced in 1998. For high-speed, four-stroke engines designed to meet 1998 exhaust emission standards. CH-4 oils are specifically compounded for use with diesel fuels ranging in sulfur content up to 0.5% weight. Can be used in place of CD, CE, CF-4, and CG-4 oils. CG-4 Current Introduced in 1995. For severe duty, high speed, four-stroke engines using fuel with less than 0.5% weight sulfur. CG-4 oils are required for engines meeting 1994 emission standards. Can be used in place of CD, CE, and CF-4 oils. CF-4 Current Introduced in 1990. For high-speed, four-stroke, naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. Can be used in place of CD and CE oils. CF-2 Current Introduced in 1994. For severe duty, two-stroke cycle engines. Can be used in place of CD-II oils. CF Current Introduced in 1994. For off-road, indirect injected and other diesel engines including those using fuel with over 0.5% weight sulfur. Can be used in place of CD oils. CE Obsolete Introduced in 1987. For high-speed, four-stroke, naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. Can be used in place of CC and CD oils. CD-II Obsolete Introduced in 1987. For two-stroke-cycle engines. CD Obsolete Introduced in 1955. For certain naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. CC Obsolete For engines introduced in 1961. CB Obsolete For moderate duty engines from 1949 to 1960. CA Obsolete For light duty engines (1940's and 1950's). Copyright 2004 - American Petroleum Institute. All rights reserved. API, the API logo, the API Service Symbol (Donut), the API Service Symbol with CI-4 PLUS logo and the API Certification Mark (Starburst) are either trademarks or registered trademarks of the American Petroleum Institute in the United States and / or other countries. Printed in U.S.A.

since all of you are on the subject. when i adopted my MJ at 75000 it was pretty obvious that the previous owners did little or know PM on the truck. after 23 years it still had the original hoses and most likely the same belt. looking in through the oil filler cap what i could see did not boad well eather. the first oil change the crap that came out was pretty bad. when i refilled it i used a qt of marval mystery oil. i ran that for about 3 weeks. i changed the oill again and this time there was a steady stream of thick black sludge coming out, not all but more than anyone should expect. recharged again and went about 3 months just around the town. the clutch went out so i took the opertunity to also change out the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. when i took the pan off i swear there was two hand fulls of carbon/crap that was still in the pan. including dime size chunks. and both times i changed the oil before it was on ramps. the bottom of the engin and everywhere i could see was sparkiling clean. just sayin, i had never used marval oil before the guy at the parts store said something. now i put a qt in about a week or so before i plan on changing it. oh and its usualy warm to hot. i tie a rag around my wrist so it don't run down my elbow

:cheers:

i put a dynomax on my 01 cherokee dd after the flowmaster rotted off. i like it a lot, not to loud and i did not notice any decrease in preformance . they seem to go on sale once or twice a year and offer a $75.00 gift card for the purchase. the only down side is its not stainless

awsome find can't wait to see it all cleaned up. you go to keep the paint job for sure.

:cheers: :cheers: :bowdown: :bowdown: :clapping: :clapping: :yes:

:cheers: great new it pays to work hard. congrat