johnr

no but how about 1:00 pm or some where around then. I'm open

i had a 30" x 9.5 bfg under the bed. it did run pretty close to the exhust but i did not have any issues

cool, thanks

same springs with a new to me 8.8 axle and the lean is all gone :clapping: . could it be that the d35 was bent :dunno: ill check ferther and get back

Pete i have the axle in but i have two questions. 1st. i had this work done so one thing is just a bit off. measuring from the frame rail to the tire its 3/8" differance from 1 side to the other. when he tightened up the u bolts he did it on the jack stands with the weight off of the axle. do you think theres enough movement back there to be able to tweek this in if i loosen it all up and re-do it? 2nd. the 2" spacers. measuring from inside of the front rims and the inside of the rear rims i am only coming up with 1.5" differance total. i still might need the 2" spacers only because ill need tire clearance (i kind of over bought, 32"x11.5"x15" with 4.75" back space on the wheels and a 3" soon to be 4" lift)

2" of spacers , total or per side?

Here's how I did it. Used the Ford brake clevis; you can get them from Lokar or elsewhere. If you're not lifted over 3" or so your original cables are long enough. Which "potioning valve" (proportioning?) valve are you thinking of? On an MJ the front brass piece going to the master cylinder is no more than a distribution block; brake biasing is done by the rear load sensing valve. It works fine with disk brakes. its the load sensing valve. thanks for the photos everyone.

so about hooking the e brake up. plug and play or am i going to need some custom cables? also will the discs work with our potioning valve. mine is still in good working order. plus i have a backup one

:shake: I'm A SPUD its a ford 8.8 axle and it was out of his yj :doh:

the guy I'm getting it from had it in his tj

the end result will be 4.56 gears front and back and i wanted to run 32" tires. is this a good match up with my 2.5 liter?

il be swaping a ford 9" in sometime next week the axle has a disc brake setup on it. i have not seen the axle yet but i was wondering how hard it will be to hook up the e-brake.

well with weddings comes free beer usualy I'm sure we all could understand if you can't make it :D

mine did the same when i bought it with the stock springs. i was hopeing it would go away once i upgraded but its still there and i replaced everything and the frame has no buckels or brakes but i think the back end may be tweeked . with the bed off and the rear axle on jack stands there it 1.5" differance from the rail bottom to the ground.

i have been with my insurer for about 15 years with only 3 claims and no current tickets

with prpgressive I'm at 750.00 per year for a 01 cherokee and the 87 comanche for full coverage with a $1500.00 rider for extras on the comanche.

some more ideas http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... Id=1118147 http://www.actionimport.com/Catalog_EMP ... _Seats.htm

and a few 12 oz curles 8) on your posts

I'm certanly not suggesting any one buy this it seems a bit over priced but it gives visual to build on http://bedryder.com/id47.html

thats what i have been thinking about. i have not been able to find any with out the brat still attached to them :rotfl2:

i have some ideas running around in my head but i need it to be safe. I'm thinking of tieing something into the frame mounts for the factory roll bar.

anyone ever put a couple seats in the bed faceing backward?

well i just got back from the test drive after making the adjustment to the TPS. i must admit the i realy did not think it was worth the time consitering i could not figure out how to get the muti meter probes inside the back of the plug with out taking the TB off the intake. but then i found two 2" long sewing needles the my wife won't miss :clapping: . i stuck them in the back side of the plug and was able clamp on these to get readings. the coarse adustment did not change no mater what i did. but i was able to make the adjustment on the fine adj. i was able to dial it in right in the middle. i got it tightened down and reconeted the fuel line. ( oh yeah i needed to disconect both of the fuel lines to access the back side of the TB & don't forget to pull the fuel pump relay) anyhow its worth it, it seems to be a 10% to 12% increas in throttle responce over just slaping it on. plus for an old timer it makes you feel good to be able to adjust something :cheers: . below are a few picks of the bad fuel line in the tank and the sewing needles stuck in the plug

yes its in the tank. and although i was able to get the sending unit out with the tank in place i was not as lucky at getting it back in. the return tube slips into a rubber bushing inside the tank. I'm guessing to keep the sending unit stable. in order for me to see where it went i needed to take the tank out. anyhow i got it all put back together and its as good as new. since i was in there i put in a new pump. i still need to check the adjustment on the TPS i installed the other day though. anyhow I'm happy all is good and my truck is working again :banana:

30th sounds good