hgeranium

LMAO you weren’t kidding about seeing nothing but tire in the rear view

My dad’s first car. Red 240z

LMAO now that’s something you don’t see every day. PO was a work with what you got guy I guess. I’m glad I could help.

Title is missing an X in the vin, but it is an 88

I replaced my entire steering linkage system with mevotech supreme products and have had zero issues thus far. Good construction and not overly cheap or beat up like many parts store junk I've gotten in the past. For the quality, you can't beat the price of them.

Very true. Regardless, I have a stoic outlook of life “As my life comes to me, I will go to my life”. Just taking punches as they’re thrown. It seems pretty applicable to the car world too. So the best I can do is enjoy the good times in lieu of the bad times, and use the good times as motivation when the bad times finally come. Silver lining is I always end up learning something. And for every thing that I learn, things get easier. The only mistakes I have ever made are when I don’t learn from them. While on the topic of philosophy: if I take the Jeep of Theseus into account, once I replace enough parts it’ll be a brand new machine lol.

Anyone get suspicious when your XJ/MJs start behaving perfectly with no issues? It’s like the calm before the storm. I’ve had to replace so much (all easy stuff) in the 4 years I’ve had the jeep that I’m dreading what very large projects await me in the future. I can’t even enjoy when it’s running good because a failure or scare is inevitable haha. Last time the jeep was running great for an extended period of time, I got stranded 200 miles from home with the fuel pump going out.

I was finally able to get the site to cooperate so I could ask about this. For the past few weeks, I’ve noticed that the Jeep has started to make some groaning noises when I steer. It’s not the fluid, it’s properly topped off and looks/smells fine. I’ve yet to experiment to see if things change when the fluid warms up (will test when I’m off work in about an hour). I had a remanufactured gearbox with a high pressure PS hose put in about 10,000 miles ago. Even with the groaning, steering is still effortless, it’s mostly just that annoying sound and feeling in the wheel. With that, I am guessing that it’s either the pump itself or air trapped in the system. For the latter it seems less likely since this problem just came up recently and I wouldn’t have done anything to introduce air in the past 10k miles. I’ll have to double check the belt tension when I get home just in case but I don’t think that’s the problem either. I’m also assuming it’s not the gearbox because I would either be leaking or feeling some serious steering woes. I think starting with bleeding the air would be good. I’m curious if there’s any special techniques for the Renix or it’s like any other car.

my favorite AIC song

I'm with Eagle. I think it's not inherently a bad thing to have 3-4 vehicles to cycle around, especially if they're all projects lol. Having two cars has saved my @$$ on many occasions. Seller's remorse is real, especially in the Jeep world. I hear it all too often. If you can feasibly juggle all of your vehicles and not have it be too stressful, then I say go for it and keep it. I guess it also depends on what needs to be done to the XJ to fix it and maintain it.

I've also been getting this. Sometimes for an entire day; maybe for the last two months off and on. EDIT: After trying to go back to edit my response to say my loading times have been awful immediately after posting that, I got hit with the bad gateway lol.

Comanche by The Revels. Is there a more fitting song?

Yeah I’ve never looked at those for as long as I’ve had the truck. Even if it’s not the cause of the clicking, it surely wouldn’t hurt to replace them anyways. Thank you!

It’s definitely the former. I didn’t check that when replacing the track bar but I wouldn’t be surprised. Thanks for the heads up!

This is a pretty inconsequential problem with the truck, I’m just curious. I replaced all of my steering linkage a while ago and I am still noticing an occasional clicking sound when turning, usually when pulling into a parking spot. Probably ball joints? I’ve done all tie rod ends, steering damper, and track bar. Sway bar end links and ball joints don’t look totally shot but they do look well-aged.

Could it be your tailgate moving around? Mine rattles when driving around and hitting bumps sometimes.

I envy your mechanic ability. It’s good to hear the engine swap went well

Yes this is the original configuration. And sorry, I accidentally omitted that picture. It goes to the thermostat. Top hose from the reservoir goes down and splits, one through the heater control valve to the heater core and the other straight to the thermostat Hose on the bottom of the reservoir splits, one end to the heater core, and the other end going to the thermostat The hose on the top of the thermostat connects to the top of the reservoir. The small hose on the bottom (beneath the upper rad hose) connects to the bottom of the reservoir.

I talked about it in my build thread, but I’m currently using a spare PCV grommet and hose in the front hole because I figured, until I get a new vacuum harness to steal the CCV hose from, a fresh grommet that can actually seal oil was preferable to my beat up CCV hose that wasn’t even being held in the hole. I was worried about a buildup of pressure from the smaller orifice opening, so I watched over the next few days. Normal city driving is fine. It actually holds oil pretty well. Extended driving on the highway proves to build too much pressure because little puddles of oil will be on the valve cover instead of just light seepage. This is probably pretty obvious to most of everyone, but I felt it was worth it to mention that going with a smaller orifice size from stock as an alternative will lead to undesirable crank case pressure during highway driving. All the more reason to switch to an HO valve cover with the improved breather design rather than buying a whole vacuum harness to cut up for one hose.

I don’t have a diagram but I can give you a picture of my heater hose set up. 4.0 closed system with HCV. Let me know if you need a different angle or a close up

This truck is on cars and bids right now. https://carsandbids.com/auctions/92Ov8baJ/1988-jeep-comanche-pioneer-4x4?ss_id=ef6ccc74-0bb8-406d-908d-a3ac6a933552&ref=lr_1_1

Do you typically see the catch can routed through the CCV hose? I have an HO air box where the CCV is a straight shot, so I wonder how I would set up a catch can while also plugging the hose into the air box.

What's your fuel pressure look like at the rail while you're cranking?

Good points. That 4.3 was about as simple to work on as the 4.0 is. I loved the torque for a V6 in my C1500 (short box stepside), so I bet it would rip in a CJ with the weight of a tin can

You may already know but a good option if you want brand new, well-crafted units, you can always go for the Bosch 746s for volvos. They’re 4 hole. Here’s a kit on FCPEuro Ive owned two VWs and FCPEuro is amazing. They have lifetime warranty on everything (including oil and filters lol). So I think it’s worth it paying a little more for a brand new Bosch set that has a lifetime warranty. No need to worry about rebuilding, you can just get a fresh set.